Replace rear shocks help

[ArcticRider]

I bought a 2010 nytro from a buddy and the rear shocks are totally gone and need to be rebuilt. I’ve been reading over the forums but would like some one to give me a step by step instructions on getting those things out. Can anyone help? Thanks!

 

[Hooray!]

Check out my front end thread, I pulled my skid to change bushings, easy ten minute removal, only way to pull shock IMO. I am sure you can bust a knuckle keeping skid in but four bolts and free is easy...

 

[WiscSledder1969]

You may as well take out the skid. Check everything over. Probably will find bad bearings. It will be easier. Take some pics before you disassemble.

 

[ArcticRider]

You may as well take out the skid. Check everything over. Probably will find bad bearings. It will be easier. Take some pics before you disassemble.

Pictures of everything or anything specific?

 

[ArcticRider]

Check out my front end thread, I pulled my skid to change bushings, easy ten minute removal, only way to pull shock IMO. I am sure you can bust a knuckle keeping skid in but four bolts and free is easy...

I tried to find that thread, but was unsuccessful

 

[WiscSledder1969]

Take pictures from all angles. That way if you have any questions to how it goes together.

 

[Hooray!]

I tried to find that thread, but was unsuccessful

Are you asking how you do it? If so, put sled on right side, carefully (never on left side), I show a pic of my bar end balanced on a concrete block. Then loosen all four skid bolts, two front two rear, remove two rear bolts while holding back of skid, now the entire rear of skid and track can pivot on front bolts and be pulled out of tunnel so you can release the springs and pressure. Support the skid and track so you are not torquing anything, I suspect at this point you could work on rear shock if you wanted while front of skid was still bolted. Alternative, rear only release, you can do same thing by putting a cumalong on rear bumper and lifting sled up leaving skid and track on ground. If you have a hook on ceiling and only want to drop rear of skid, better stability lifting rear of sled if you don't want to remove skid.

If you do want to remove the entire skid simply remove two front bolts being careful to support the skid weight so you don't bung up the last bolt thread when you finally release last turn if you have the entire skid torqued to one side, it has some weight. My thread shows details on all bushing replacements once out. Note there are two cups on the skid shaft on front so when you do remove two front bolts make sure to slide skid out square so these grease cups remain together so you see how they go back in. A few beers to grease the wheels and get a helper is always good too!

I read a bunch of older threads here and studied the microfiche to see how it all goes together. Once you have done it once only takes ten minutes to drop and replace. There are more threads here about now you have access to replace the bearings on each side of the front shaft. More good threads on these as they tend to go and are prone to water intrusion. Hope this helps.

 

[ArcticRider]

Are you asking how you do it? If so, put sled on right side, carefully (never on left side), I show a pic of my bar end balanced on a concrete block. Then loosen all four skid bolts, two front two rear, remove two rear bolts while holding back of skid, now the entire rear of skid and track can pivot on front bolts and be pulled out of tunnel so you can release the springs and pressure. Support the skid and track so you are not torquing anything, I suspect at this point you could work on rear shock if you wanted while front of skid was still bolted. Alternative, rear only release, you can do same thing by putting a cumalong on rear bumper and lifting sled up leaving skid and track on ground. If you have a hook on ceiling and only want to drop rear of skid, better stability lifting rear of sled if you don't want to remove skid.

If you do want to remove the entire skid simply remove two front bolts being careful to support the skid weight so you don't bung up the last bolt thread when you finally release last turn if you have the entire skid torqued to one side, it has some weight. My thread shows details on all bushing replacements once out. Note there are two cups on the skid shaft on front so when you do remove two front bolts make sure to slide skid out square so these grease cups remain together so you see how they go back in. A few beers to grease the wheels and get a helper is always good too!

I read a bunch of older threads here and studied the microfiche to see how it all goes together. Once you have done it once only takes ten minutes to drop and replace. There are more threads here about now you have access to replace the bearings on each side of the front shaft. More good threads on these as they tend to go and are prone to water intrusion. Hope this helps.

Yes! Thank you. I just got through getting the shocks out now a buddy will rebuild them for me.

 

[ArcticRider]

Are you asking how you do it? If so, put sled on right side, carefully (never on left side), I show a pic of my bar end balanced on a concrete block. Then loosen all four skid bolts, two front two rear, remove two rear bolts while holding back of skid, now the entire rear of skid and track can pivot on front bolts and be pulled out of tunnel so you can release the springs and pressure. Support the skid and track so you are not torquing anything, I suspect at this point you could work on rear shock if you wanted while front of skid was still bolted. Alternative, rear only release, you can do same thing by putting a cumalong on rear bumper and lifting sled up leaving skid and track on ground. If you have a hook on ceiling and only want to drop rear of skid, better stability lifting rear of sled if you don't want to remove skid.

If you do want to remove the entire skid simply remove two front bolts being careful to support the skid weight so you don't bung up the last bolt thread when you finally release last turn if you have the entire skid torqued to one side, it has some weight. My thread shows details on all bushing replacements once out. Note there are two cups on the skid shaft on front so when you do remove two front bolts make sure to slide skid out square so these grease cups remain together so you see how they go back in. A few beers to grease the wheels and get a helper is always good too!

I read a bunch of older threads here and studied the microfiche to see how it all goes together. Once you have done it once only takes ten minutes to drop and replace. There are more threads here about now you have access to replace the bearings on each side of the front shaft. More good threads on these as they tend to go and are prone to water intrusion. Hope this helps.

Got the shocks rebuilt, now i just got to get everything put back together. I heard getting the skid back in can be tough. Also, do u recommend any shocks to replace those two? What lenght would i need?

 

[ArcticRider]

Take pictures from all angles. That way if you have any questions to how it goes together.[/
I did take some pictures of the linkage bc thats what i was most concerned about. However, i neglected to take pictures of which way the shocks go, i know it was dumb now. So im not 100% sure which way the reservoir goes and which side the clicks go on. Could u take a quick pic of your skid?

 

[porkchop]

If it's lifted up from the back just feed front of the skid in first, get the wheels centered and lift up the track and side to side wiggle it back in. Some have collapsed it some using a ratchet strap, 'lil muscle works
We set it on a milk crate after and then lower the chainfall down around it till the holes line up, 4 bolts real easy.
Reservoir faces downward.

micro fiche
https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003c80ef8700212fc843383/track-suspension-2

 

[ArcticRider]

If it's lifted up from the back just feed front of the skid in first, get the wheels centered and lift up the track and side to side wiggle it back in. Some have collapsed it some using a ratchet strap, 'lil muscle works
We set it on a milk crate after and then lower the chainfall down around it till the holes line up, 4 bolts real easy.
Reservoir faces downward.

micro fiche
https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003c80ef8700212fc843383/track-suspension-2

That is a super helpful link with the diagram and parts. My challenge is i dont have a way to use a chain fall. Ive got the machine on its right side. Maybe i could stick something under the back to at least take the weight off.

 

[ArcticRider]

Got everything put back together. No way i could have done it on my own. Glad i had a buddy around. Thanks for everyone’s help!

 

[Hooray!]

Got everything put back together. No way i could have done it on my own. Glad i had a buddy around. Thanks for everyone’s help!

I agree... Solo is tough, I had a second set of hands to de-torque the skid to align the front bolts and easy.