Reverse Testing

[Yammimodder]

for the wiring, can I just keep a 12v line to the center pin 2, ground the third pin, and use my rocker switch to alternate current for pin 1 from + to -?

that way, I could just put a small rocker switch on the handle bar. if not, I would need a double switch. are atv winch switches double pole?

 

[Mooseman]

You will need a DPDT switch. Leaving 12V+ to that pin will likely conflict internally or cause a short and blow a fuse.

 

[1bad10tacoma]

New guy here with a 2007 Phazer GT. My sled won't go into reverse the light on dash flashes and beeps. Can someone point me in the direction of this reverse servo? I cannot seem to locate the reverse gearbox on my sled. Thanks

 

[Yammimodder]

New guy here with a 2007 Phazer GT. My sled won't go into reverse the light on dash flashes and beeps. Can someone point me in the direction of this reverse servo? I cannot seem to locate the reverse gearbox on my sled. Thanks

it is in front/under the tank. you will have to remove the tank, or atleast I did. keep reading up on this issue, as it is a common issue but with different causes. I think mine is the sensor related so I am going to bypass them with a new harness, or at least I am going to try.

 

[Yammimodder]

Could not track down a dpdt switch here in town and didn't want to wait for one from ebay so I got a power window switch from old car. It only has 5 wires, 2 for the + and - to battery, and other three will go to the gearbox. Just checked out the switch with my multimeter to make sure that I know what wire gets the polarity reversed so I think I am good to go. switch looks to be fairly weather resistant as well. I'll make sure that I do a little silicone work on it before it gets installed just to make sure. Ill keep you guys posted on this as it might be the answer to the reverse issues that a lot of people have been having.

 

[Yammimodder]

Finished the install for the reverse switch. This works perfect. No waiting for the computer to put in reverse, or more frequently not put sled in reverse. It has worked every time I have tried it so far over a couple of weeks(in my garage that is, no snow here either). ill give an update later on but this may be one of the best things that I have ever done to this machine. I have an 08 Vector with manual reverse and it is awesome. the phazer reverse really got on my nerves when it didn't work. I mounted the switch on the left handlebar next to brake lever so you can operate it really easy with a glove on.

 

[1bad10tacoma]

Finished the install for the reverse switch. This works perfect. No waiting for the computer to put in reverse, or more frequently not put sled in reverse. It has worked every time I have tried it so far over a couple of weeks(in my garage that is, no snow here either). ill give an update later on but this may be one of the best things that I have ever done to this machine. I have an 08 Vector with manual reverse and it is awesome. the phazer reverse really got on my nerves when it didn't work. I mounted the switch on the left handlebar next to brake lever so you can operate it really easy with a glove on.

I look forward to seeing your work.

 

[Yammimodder]

Had to eventually get a DPDT switch as the power window switch didn't have the capabilities that I needed. Just a regular 10$ double pole, double throw switch and wired it in like the earlier pics shoe. It is a great solution to the phazer reverse problems. It is fast and easy to operate. I put my switch on the left side of the steering column so I can operate it while still keeping right hand on the throttle. worked great all last year!

 

[Yammimodder]

1bad10tacoma, just search- How to add reverse to a Phazer. Marpolsdofer has a perfect write up there. It will cost you about 25$ for everything.
As I said, works perfect!

 

[Mooseman]

I'm seriously thinking of doing this to my MP. It's still pissing me off to no end not wanting to shift into reverse.

 

[1bad10tacoma]

I had my 07 phazer apart for reverse isues (not going in and light flashing) and I replaced the gearbox oil fill tube and grommet with updated ones. I tested the reverse servo with a battery and it seemed to work fine. Reverse gearbox seemed ok, I was able to shift into reverse by hand with a little bit of effort but it was dry inside. I lubed everything up real good and put it back together but when I tried to use reverse it felt like it wanted to shift but became stuck between gears and light flashes. I am wondering if the servo is just weak? I bought this sled 2 years ago and all was good at first but 40 miles later it started giving me problems.Anyone have any advice? Thanks

 

[Mooseman]

The dog gear, which is pushed against the reverse gear by the fork and servo, has to turn a little to go in. My theory is that the servo's spring may be too strong and pushes the dog gear too hard or that the surfaces of the gears are rough and don't slide easily. When it does go into reverse, you hear the clunk it does. That's the spring in the servo snapping the gear into place.

Maybe if there is a little more drag on the belt on the primary clutch, it would probably be able to overcome the internal friction.

 

[1bad10tacoma]

The dog gear, which is pushed against the reverse gear by the fork and servo, has to turn a little to go in. My theory is that the servo's spring may be too strong and pushes the dog gear too hard or that the surfaces of the gears are rough and don't slide easily. When it does go into reverse, you hear the clunk it does. That's the spring in the servo snapping the gear into place.

Maybe if there is a little more drag on the belt on the primary clutch, it would probably be able to overcome the internal friction.

How would create more drag? I have a new belt on it now and no difference

 

[Mooseman]

I don't know really. Yamaha did a modification to the secondary and added a new belt in the bulletin for this problem.

 

[TrueBlue]

If you want to test the gears take off the servo. There is a peace of metal called the fork that you can touch with you finger. Push it to the chain case side, hold it, turn the shaft until it locks in to place, then let go it will stay in place. Transfer to reverse push it to the clutch side and rotate the shaft half turn should go it to place. Forward both shaft will rotate same direction reverse the the shaft will rotate opposing each other. Make sure the smaller chain case shaft is pushed in to the the gear case.

Test the servo- Have the servo off the gear case. Get a 12v battery and two wires. Connect one wire to positive the to negative. On the servo there is 3 pins (1 pin is on the left side from the top looking at the pins it will be alone and 2/3 will be next to each other). Read carefully as it just does not swap for F/R
For Forward connect Neg(-) to 1 and Pos(+) to 2. For Reverse Connect Pos(+) to 1 and Neg(-) to 3.
If actuator moves to the right is in F and if it goes to the right its in R.
The actuator is spring loaded. This will keep constant pressure on the fork until it is shifted in to place and keep it in place once it has. The servo is not supplied constant power to do so.

Testing the sensors-There is on the F side and one on the R side (they are interchangeable with each other). They work just by simple contact from the fork. To test it you cant get a self powered test light and past current from the fork to the sensor (the side it is on) or you cant take of the sensor and test from the ends.

Dry Run-Place the servo in F position. Push the fork in to F position. Place servo back on case. Test it by supplying power to change fork locations for F/R shifts. A fast twist may need to be applied due to tension from the spring. Make sure there there gear are lubed, friction will not help a shift. If it does not fully shift in to place, make sure small shaft is pushed in. If it still does not, the servo gear may be re-indexing if taken apart.

If this all work try a full hook up with everything back together. If this does not work you problem lies with in the Control Pod or ECU. They control when the servo is supplied power to shift (to prevent damages a high RPM shift), D and R lights, and back up alarm.
When putting everything back to getter 1 wire for the sensor will have F on it for Forward, so you know witch sensor is witch.
To make a direct override for addition of reverse - Diagram coming soon for battery connection, switches, and connection to servo.

Pic 1- Yellow Arrow, push the shaft in to direction arrow points. The other Yellow Arrow, what part of the gears the shaft controls. Red Arrows, the shaft and gears it controls. Blue box, inside the box indicates how the gears are aligned and touch. Black indicates the fork.

Pic 2- In Forward gear position.

Pic 3- In Reverse gear position.

Pic 4- Yellow Arrows, indicate witch direction the shaft will rotate in Forward. Red Arrows indicate witch direction the shaft will rotate in Reverse.

pic 5- Testing sensor in Forward with out removing sensor.

Pic 6- Testing sensor with sensor removed.

Pic 7- Servo wire application to change actuator position.

Pic 8- Corresponding Actuator position. Left is Reverse and Right is Forward.

Pic 9- Heavy spring shown in Servo.

Pic 10- Gear re-indexing. Place for in Forward position and place Actuator in Forward position. Top arrow pointing right is the a stop and the bottom is stop. They will contact each other to stop from going to far (unknown how long power is supplied but easier to make that then make senors and some a device for it) When re-indexing make sure they just touch each other and place cover back on.

Pic 11- Just a under view of the cover. # Color Corresponds with the Arrow color for current testing with self power test light. (With #1 sometimes I would get a light sometimes the motor would turn). White Arrow (the stop) is to make sure the gear to go to far and slip out of place.
You will notice the are not all the same length. This is to automatically kill the power once it is full shifted in place. If it was to be bumped out of place it would re-engaged. If the gears are fully in place but the Actuator Arm is not, the power will still be cut. The Arm is spring loaded to keep constant presser until it is engaged and should still do so once its in place.

Pic 12- Yellow Arrow, 3 wires that are used to control the Servo. Red Arrow, wire to Forward Sensor. Blue Arrow, wire to Reverse Senor.

Pic 13- Example of testing.

Pics 14- Contact points (also could be called a brush) for D/R to the complete the circuit.