Ripsaw 136" With Studds

[Boston RX1]

I am going to a 136" with the new Ripsaw track. I do not want to stud, but I am feeling that it will be safer in the long run running in New England. Does anyone have an opinion on this new track regarding studding?

 

[POWERHAULIC]

144 type pattern down the middle only, 1.325 woodys aluminum backers. Would be a good idea to build up the forward upper tunnel protectors just a little bit.

 

[NHRX1]

I have said it to you before, I also do all my riding in northern NH, Maine, and Canada and just don't see how anyone can ride without studs. The corners always seem to be icy and that piece of mind is clearly needed to keep things going in the right direction. i bought a Viper last January and rode it the first weekend without any studs-WOW, it was fun until I came to the first icy corner and went right thru it-admittedly I was going too fast but studs would have slowed me down enough to make the turn. Just my two cents worth on studding and I agree with going down the middle only.

 

[BlueByYou2000]

MXZ900 has it right with regards to how to stud it. Not sure if youve already ordered it, but I have a preseason deal on those tracks and can also get you a deal on the studs. Check out www.thespeedshop1.com for more info. Thanks...BBY

 

[monker]

I'll be going down the middle too, only with a 3-4-3-4 pattern. Comes out to 189 studs on the 136" track.

 

[Boston RX1]

I am going to stud

OK everyone, I am going to give in. I have three small children and if I can stop faster, then that makes more sense. Is there anything I should look for in studding? Someone mentioned that I should build up the tunnel. What exactly does that mean? Any help would be much appreciated. Also, what studds should I use? I would like a stud that has a blue backer to match my sled, which by the way is the fastest color, BLUE.

 

[MrSled]

this is what it means....

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Hey, that hand looks famliar in that second pic. What do you know, my hand is now famous. Seriously though, That is the way to add protection. Get yourself 3 each 6ft long 1"x1/4" flat stock aluminum and rivet it to the existing protectors. On Toms, (mr.sled) we bent them to fit and they installed beautifully. With 1.25 track go with 1.343 or 1.325 studs. With 1" track go with 1.180 or 1.175...BBY

 

[RobX-1]

BBY, how did you bend the alum. strips for the front heat exchanger protectors? It almost looks like you cut about a 1/8" crevass on the back side and then bent it. Those 1"x.25" thick strips are sure stout. I was just wondering how I was going to get them fitted for the front exchangers.

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Measure the stock protectors, cut flat stock to length, hold them up to the existing protectors, mark bend, then put in vise and bend to shape. Make small bend first, and just keep holding it up to the stock protector, go back to vise and bend until you get the desired angle on it. Then replicate another peice for the other side. Same applies for the long stretch..BBY

 

[craig]

I did the same thing on my tunnel protectors. To bend, I cut half way through and bent to fit then welded the cut with my mig. I didn't add anything to the front heat exchangers. The only problem that I had with the 1.325 studs hitting was right behind the crossover tube and destroyed the stock piece that the snow flap used to be riveted to. To correct that, I ran the 1/4 x 1" flat stock all the way to the back of the tunnel extension. We'll see how well it works in a few months.... 8) ....Craig