Rode my new Phazer, it has a serious problem.

[woolf]

My ZR600 took a dump last week, and the wife told me to go buy a new sled. Well, after debating between the TNT 500SS and a leftover '07 Phazer Standard, I went with the phazer. To be honest I was mostly concerned about the phazer being short on power, but for $5000 OTD on a brand new sled with 3 miles on it, I couldn't pass it up. I got a chance to ride it this afternoon, and I absolutley love it except for two things. I was soaking wet when I was done riding it. Found out I can remedy this very easily, so not much of a problem. The worst problem it seems to have is traction. It seems to have plenty of power, but won't hook up in the front or the rear. The snow was very fluffy, with very little base, however the thing spins the track like it is going out of style and pushes around the corners something fierce. I am going to throw 96 studs down the center to try and hook the track up, but I cannot get the darn thing to go around the corner. From what I can defer from searching the site, it sounds like I need to adjust the washers on my skis, and reduce the preload. Will this really help? I am sick of almost running into trees and blowing corners. I have very little time on sleds, but have been riding sport quads for years. It feels very similar to my YFZ, but no matter how much I hang off the side, the thing wants to push through every freaking corner. Someone please help!!!

 

[pat the rat]

i think snow conditions play a big part in a sleds handling,my 07 isnt studded and on hard pack,there is no track spin,im 230 and if i put my weight to the back,the sled will flip upsidedown from transfering,i know,i almost flipped it a cpl times,it hooks up very well,as far as pushing in the corners,just get the right carbides or snowtrackers and it will corner too much,its all about setting it up,like any other sled

 

[terret725]

tap the breaks goin into the corner. the skis should plant. also pulling up ur limiter straps should help also. after that is say more agressive carbides like shaper bars or new skis. i went wth new skis. i ahvent had a problem sence.

 

[iwant1]

The studa will help, mine transfers hard enough to get a wheelie from a dead stop. ditch the stock ski's or get some dually carbides(big ones), pull the limiter strap up one 1 or 2 holes (if you like lots of ski pressure) and make sure you have at least 1/4" of toe out. My set up will still push in the light and fluffy snow but it's the most fun I've had on a sled.

 

[woolf]

Thanks for the help guys. I will be looking for some new carbides and be throwing some studs in probably in the off season if I don't upgrade the track. I keep hearing about these limiting straps, but don't know where they are. Granted I have not loked for them yet, but someone want to clue me in on the location of them. Thanks Again!

 

[phazertp]

Its the strap at the front of the skid. If it has never been adjusted it should be loose, at least mine is.

 

[RedRX1]

The only thing I had to do to my wifes GT is add dulies and take the torsion bar to the max stiff position. It pushed real bad with the stock carbides. I have not studded yet and the only time i notice traction problems is on ice.

I have had to ride this for the last 500 miles waiting on parts for my RX1. Other than being short on power and wet feet, it is a nice ride. I have to close off that tunnel.

 

[bnsf205]

I just changed out hyfax, pulled up two holes on the limiter, and put on 4" woody's trail III carbides on the same stock sled. I was very happy with the ride after doing just those simple changes. The limiter strap is a two inch wide strap in the front of the rear suspension. Take a 4x4 or a 2x4 on its side and set that right before the track angles up in the front to compress the suspension. Put on the parking brake and loosen the two nuts up top. The 2x4 pushes up enough slack to pull the strap down.
I wore out my original carbides and hyfax in 697 miles. I hope to get more out of each with this setup I will keep everyone posted. I read on here that moving the limiter also eliminates some of the premature hyfax wear. Cheap fix with the $48 carbides and 30 minutes work!

 

[Prav]

has anyone had an issue with the sleds ability to transfer weight (skid) when the lim strap is sucked up. I have also heard on the 07's this is bad to do b/c it puts too much pressure on the skid link that has been breaking... any truth to either??

 

[snomaniac]

woolf, here's my .02. Get a freeride track. I studded my stock track and still had a ton of track spin compared to my uncles phazer with the freeride, it's a HUGE improvement. Then buy some after market ski's, slydog, usi spx, c&a "ad" model with at least 6 inch carbide. We have tried all three of these and all work good. Stock ski's are worthless imo. Pull the limiter strap up and leave one hole remaining. This will give you more ski pressure. It'll cost you some coin but the difference will be unreal. We both run 07 phazer standards here's our set ups:

my uncle: 121 freeride track, sly dog trail version ski 6inch carbide, stock sway bar, fx shock in rear suspension only, 4th rear axel wheel kit, low snow wheel kit, sno cross torsion spring kit, ( rear sup.), hauck gyt-r-done kit ( exhaust,fuel module,clutch kit, intake kit) IT IS A BLAST TO RIDE.

Mine: 128x 1.375x 13.5 sno pro track, rail ext. to 128, walker evans dragon rmk shocks in both rear susp. positions, snocross torsion spring kit, low snow wheels, 4th rear axel wheel kit, usi spx ski's with 8 inch shaper bars, schmidt bros sway bar( awesome), schmidt bros pipe, clutch kit, intake kit. I absolutely love this thing, it's rides so much better than stock it's crazy.

I'm sure there's other, cheaper ways, but this is what we have done for trail shredding.

 

[woolf]

Everyone's responses are awesome. Thanks for all the help guys. I think I am going to get the freeride track in the off season here, and maybe some skis if I can come by some cheap. This may sound strange in the world of snowmobiles, but I love to be able to pull the skis off the ground. To me there is nothing more fun than blasting through the corner and pulling the skis on exit, that to me feels just like my YFZ. If I upgrade to the 136" track, will I be able to still do this?

 

[80h4thephaze]

The 96 studs will be a major improvement on hard and "medium pack." It did for me.

 

[iwant1]

presosion ski from doo doo is what im running and they work well, pretty cheap upgrade imo.

 

[buddhahead]

woolf, here's my .02. Get a freeride track. I studded my stock track and still had a ton of track spin compared to my uncles phazer with the freeride, it's a HUGE improvement. Then buy some after market ski's, slydog, usi spx, c&a "ad" model with at least 6 inch carbide. We have tried all three of these and all work good. Stock ski's are worthless imo. Pull the limiter strap up and leave one hole remaining. This will give you more ski pressure. It'll cost you some coin but the difference will be unreal. We both run 07 phazer standards here's our set ups:

my uncle: 121 freeride track, sly dog trail version ski 6inch carbide, stock sway bar, fx shock in rear suspension only, 4th rear axel wheel kit, low snow wheel kit, sno cross torsion spring kit, ( rear sup.), hauck gyt-r-done kit ( exhaust,fuel module,clutch kit, intake kit) IT IS A BLAST TO RIDE.

Mine: 128x 1.375x 13.5 sno pro track, rail ext. to 128, walker evans dragon rmk shocks in both rear susp. positions, snocross torsion spring kit, low snow wheels, 4th rear axel wheel kit, usi spx ski's with 8 inch shaper bars, schmidt bros sway bar( awesome), schmidt bros pipe, clutch kit, intake kit. I absolutely love this thing, it's rides so much better than stock it's crazy.

I'm sure there's other, cheaper ways, but this is what we have done for trail shredding.

Do you mean 1 hole remaining or move it 1 hole from stock? Just for my clarification. Thanks

 

[woolf]

woolf, here's my .02. Get a freeride track. I studded my stock track and still had a ton of track spin compared to my uncles phazer with the freeride, it's a HUGE improvement. Then buy some after market ski's, slydog, usi spx, c&a "ad" model with at least 6 inch carbide. We have tried all three of these and all work good. Stock ski's are worthless imo. Pull the limiter strap up and leave one hole remaining. This will give you more ski pressure. It'll cost you some coin but the difference will be unreal. We both run 07 phazer standards here's our set ups:

my uncle: 121 freeride track, sly dog trail version ski 6inch carbide, stock sway bar, fx shock in rear suspension only, 4th rear axel wheel kit, low snow wheel kit, sno cross torsion spring kit, ( rear sup.), hauck gyt-r-done kit ( exhaust,fuel module,clutch kit, intake kit) IT IS A BLAST TO RIDE.

Mine: 128x 1.375x 13.5 sno pro track, rail ext. to 128, walker evans dragon rmk shocks in both rear susp. positions, snocross torsion spring kit, low snow wheels, 4th rear axel wheel kit, usi spx ski's with 8 inch shaper bars, schmidt bros sway bar( awesome), schmidt bros pipe, clutch kit, intake kit. I absolutely love this thing, it's rides so much better than stock it's crazy.

I'm sure there's other, cheaper ways, but this is what we have done for trail shredding.

Do you mean 1 hole remaining or move it 1 hole from stock? Just for my clarification. Thanks

I have the same question. It seems like I would be taking a lot out of the rear suspension if I left only one open.