Runs a little richer

[Fortress]

Seems after I put new doughnuts in exhaust in my 2004 RX1 it runs rich now? It really still runs good but if you are riding behind it it smells,and it also doesn’t idle perfect now (stumbles just a bit) anyone know how to fix this?
Checked to see if little choke things are all the way back in on carbs and they look ok

 

[RobX-1]

If you haven't done it in a while and knowing the RX-1's were notorious for plugged/gummed up jets (especially the small pilot jets), it might be that your carbs need to be gone thru. I always removed my carb rack and disassembled the carbs to soak the jets and such and then re-sync'd the carbs after re-install. Have read others were able to leave carb rack connected and just flip over rack and remove float bowls to access jets.

 

[Fortress]

If you haven't done it in a while and knowing the RX-1's were notorious for plugged/gummed up jets (especially the small pilot jets), it might be that your carbs need to be gone thru. I always removed my carb rack and disassembled the carbs to soak the jets and such and then re-sync'd the carbs after re-install. Have read others were able to leave carb rack connected and just flip over rack and remove float bowls to access jets.

I checked carbs they were all clean,maybe it’s a adjustment I have to make since I fixed doughnuts cause old ones were blown away so I have more back pressure now I’m thinking?

 

[RobX-1]

It's possible you need to re-sync your carbs due to replacing the exhaust donuts as there are adjustment screws between the carbs but it does require a synchronization tool. When you mention you checked the carbs and they were cleaned, did you do just remove the float bowls and clean the carb like this:

Or did you actually disassemble the carb and remove the jets and needle valves like this:

The reason being is that there are tiny holes in the jets that easily get plugged and sometimes just spraying carb cleaner in the carbs isn't sufficient to actually clean the small orifices:

Along with the jets under the float bowl, there is also a small jet in the mouth of the carb that I also remove and clean:

Lastly, ensure the little rubber o-ring that goes here for the carb cap is not missing:

 

[RobX-1]

Also make note of that screen on the needle valve as that can also get plugged/gummed up to the point some have actually removed them all together.

 

[RobX-1]

Also forgot to mention that the two rubber o-rings on the one jet also need to be inspected as they do become brittle over time.

 

[Fortress]

Ah cool thanks,I didn’t know about the front and top ones,but cleaned all the bottom ones,I’ll have to check them out thanks.
Anyone have a video or photo of this syncing tool happening?

 

[RobX-1]

It's a tool with either 2 or 4 tubes filled with mercury or some more environmentally friendly solution and then there are rubber hoses connected to those tubes and the other ends connect to the vacuum lines on your carbs. As the sled is running, you are not necessarily aiming for specific number but want all lines of mercury or whatever to be reacting the same. If the lines are not level, then you adjust the screw between the carbs.

If your sled does not sync properly, your idle mixture screws might be in too far, or off from one another. Air screws are on the bottom sides of the carbs, and should be at 2-2 1/2 turns out.

 

[RobX-1]

Another thing to check since they are very similar is that you didn't swap the idle jet with the main jet too.