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RX1 Engine re-assembly (with pics)

Discussion in '4 Stroke Turbos/Supercharger' started by lakercr, Oct 29, 2006.


  1. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    I started putting an RX back together today with LC pistons and took some pictures to give you guys an idea what's involved with the job. It isn't by any means a complete step-by-step 'how to' , but I hope it is useful for some of you.

    So, to start... for those who haven't seen it like this before, meet the upper case of an RX engine.
     

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  3. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    The carrier bearing for the gear reduction was replaced. Heat the case (carefully) with a torch and you should be able to pull it out easily with a pick tool. Put the bearing in the freezer for 20 minutes, and re-heat the case when re-installing.
     

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  4. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    The journal bearings are lightly seated in the case. There is a very specific procedure for sizing these bearings. I've already Plasti-gage'd this set of rods, crank and cases (the process itself would pretty much need it's own post).
     

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  5. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    With the bearings all sorted out, the ring end-gaps need to be set.
     

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  6. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Time to install the pistons. You need to have the cases somehow suspended above the table like I have in these pictures. Otherwise, when you go to tap the piston into the bore the con-rod will hit the table before the piston is fully inside the cylinder.
     

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  7. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Pistons going in. Don't be shy with the oil on both pistons and cylinders...
     

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  8. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Assembly lube on all bearing surfaces, install the cam & water pump chain guides.
     

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  9. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Con-rod caps can now go on. 1st torque is 14 ft/lbs, second is 14 ft/lbs + 120 degrees. 1st pic shows where the Yamabond has to go.
     

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  10. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Apply Yamabond to the mating surfaces as per the service manual, and place the lower case onto the upper. The bolt positions are all numbered in the manual, and the cases have the corresponding numbers stamped into them. There are a number of different bolt lengths and sizes, you'll probably find a set of calipers (or a metric ruler) helpful here. Follow the torque specs Yamaha provides.

    >
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    No, I didn't use the air ratchet to tighten those bolts - just to thread them most of the way in.
     

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  11. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Install the oil pump next. Put some oil on all o-rings. Pretend the water pump isn't installed yet (I forgot to snap a few pictures just before this point...)
     

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  12. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    OK, now you can install the water pump...
     

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  13. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Oil pan goes on...
     

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  14. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Starter gear and mag cover. You might not want to have any finger tips between the cover and the block when you go to mate these two....
     

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  15. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Adding the plumbing...
     

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  16. lakercr

    lakercr Tech Advisor Tech Advisor Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

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    Nothing wrong with this elbow, right?
     

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