Sidewinder gearing for trail.

[yamamarc]

With a tuned Winder that gearing is already way low. Unless you have 100% traction and a very aggressive clutch setup it’s probably slower on the trails.

No just stock cat clutches with dalton weight and 3 studs per bar!!
I would have to disagree with you ClutchMaster!! I run my 270hp/300hp tunes 90% of last winter on the trails and it works really well! Imo
I ran with many different 998 set ups last season and there was no negative effect with my stock gearing!!

 

[ClutchMaster]

No just stock cat clutches with dalton weight and 3 studs per bar!!
I would have to disagree with you ClutchMaster!! I run my 270hp/300hp tunes 90% of last winter on the trails and it works really well! Imo
I ran with many different 998 set ups last season and there was no negative effect with my stock gearing!!

Well then I guess we will just have 2 race!

My sled should be a real dog with 24/41 gears so you should have no trouble taking me out in a race to 110 mph!

 

[yamamarc]

Well then I guess we will just have 2 race!

My sled should be a real dog with 24/41 gears so you should have no trouble taking me out in a race to 110 mph!

Lol on the trails

 

[ClutchMaster]

I had the stock gearing (24/50) the first year I had my turbo, it was actually very nice in the tight trails. Switched to the taller gears and in the tight stuff, going slow it’s definitely not as snappy.

The power delivery is smoother now IMO.

When I ride the grades in the UP it’s a beast!
I like to have the ability to make a lake pull now and then so I have the taller gears.

It’s all what you like/dislike, I say try different things and figure out what’s best 4 you.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Lol on the trails

Power is more linear and I’m really just as fast in the tight stuff, maybe even faster because I’m not spinning the track so easy.

I will say if we get into some trails riding 70~80 mph I don’t think your gonna accelerate as well as me. My clutches are in a better efficiency range than yours.

 

[Turboflash]

I had the stock gearing (24/50) the first year I had my turbo, it was actually very nice in the tight trails. Switched to the taller gears and in the tight stuff, going slow it’s definitely not as snappy.

The power delivery is smoother now IMO.

When I ride the grades in the UP it’s a beast!
I like to have the ability to make a lake pull now and then so I have the taller gears.

It’s all what you like/dislike, I say try different things and figure out what’s best 4 you.

X2. Yup, we have to decide what we want - gear for maximum top speed, or for tight corner-to-corner, or somewhere in between. It's about what you want sled to do best - 20-60 all day or maybe 30-100 all day.

 

[PowderFalcon]

X2. Yup, we have to decide what we want - gear for maximum top speed, or for tight corner-to-corner, or somewhere in between. It's about what you want sled to do best - 20-60 all day or maybe 30-100 all day.

I want somewhere in between!! 21/41 or 22/41??!!

 

[ClutchMaster]

I want somewhere in between!! 21/41 or 22/41??!!

Waaay waaay to low for and tuned SRX!

 

[ClutchMaster]

What drivers? Pitch on that thing?

 

[PowderFalcon]

What drivers? Pitch on that thing?

same as the 17's and 18's im told

 

[Sledbrapping88]

X2 Clutchmaster. These turbos love pulling against load. To a point, the more load, the faster it spools (the quicker the boost comes up). The quicker it spools, the faster the HP comes up and the harder the sled accelerates. Another point could be compared to a car with manual transmission. When we're in a low gear, it's easier to spin the tires. Then, shift up to a higher gear and it's harder to spin the tires. It's about torque to the wheels. In lower gears, there's more torque multiplication. In higher gears, there's less and the tires don's spin as much. Similarly, in snowmobiles gearing too low (24 x 50?) allows track to spin more due to more torque transfer. With the right higher gearing, the track will spin less as the gearing tries to spin the track at a higher speed (taller gear) which reduces torque to track.

To your point, I do suppose IF there is 100% traction (not possible) and really aggressive clutching, the difference corner-to-corner with low gearing (24/50) vs. higher gearing would be minimized, albeit at a sacrifice to top end for sure.

IMO, if you want more "snap" corner-to-corner, work on traction and weight transfer, along with super-aggressive clutching, along with weight reduction, along with HP increase. When racers test 60' times, there's a point where lower gearing actually hurts not helps. So, they spend allot of testing time testing ratios to find the right one for their HP, weight, chassis, etc.

For my fast trail riding, with my sled and setup, my 30-100 MPH was much faster with taller gearing (vs. stock gearing). No substitute for testing hours out on the lake with a good radar gun and stop watch. I wish I had a "G-force gage" to confirm what my seat-of-the-pants, GPS, and stopwatch tells me.

I agree when tuning my golf r with dsg trans 3rd gear on awd dyno it would only put down 365 hp at 6400 rpm and 350ft/lbs torque at 3200 rpm in 4th gear with much wider power band because more load from gear ratio be longer it pulled 415hp from 6k-7k rpm and 428ft/lbs torque from 2800-4000 then slow dropped off. So in theory on track dyno with not enough load or enough gearing sled would put less hp to ground which would be contradicting. Find a sweet spot between clutching and gearing and should be good to go.

 

[Alsim]

What is the right part number for the 22 top gear? Any advantage with hole or not?
Thanks!

 

[NYTurbo]

What is the right part number for the 22 top gear? Any advantage with hole or not?
Thanks!

In stock at Hurricane Performance

 

[DMCTurbo]

24/41....on my Turbo Viper, still pretty trailable, take no prisoners!

How do you like that ratio?

A 37 gear and 84P chain from Cat is $300 plus tax where as a 24 gear and 90P chain from Yamaha is $160 plus tax. Will need to take a link out of the chain to run 24/41 but it would still be cheaper than the Cat stuff. Was planning 22/37 at 1.68. 24/41 at 1.70 may be the better alternative.

 

[Turboflash]

How do you like that ratio?

A 37 gear and 84P chain from Cat is $300 plus tax where as a 24 gear and 90P chain from Yamaha is $160 plus tax. Will need to take a link out of the chain to run 24/41 but it would still be cheaper than the Cat stuff. Was planning 22/37 at 1.68. 24/41 at 1.70 may be the better alternative.

Can someone explain how to "remove a link" from one of these endless hyvo chains and still retain all the strength and end up with an endless chain again? Is there some type of master link (like the old roller chains had)?