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Ski spindle bushings shot

Seavey82

Pro
Joined
Oct 27, 2017
Messages
139
Location
Maine
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2013 Nytro XTX 1.75
Noticed my ski spindle bushings are shot there is tons of slop in the skis 7000 miles. Looks like tie rod universal ball joints also have some slop in them too. It this normal?
I see up Bushman used to offer a fix; however, I know that stainless and aluminum don't see eye to eye. I see ulmer offers bushings are these better than oem? Is it worth changing the universal ball joints on the tie rod ends?
 

Noticed my ski spindle bushings are shot there is tons of slop in the skis 7000 miles. Looks like tie rod universal ball joints also have some slop in them too. It this normal?
I see up Bushman used to offer a fix; however, I know that stainless and aluminum don't see eye to eye. I see ulmer offers bushings are these better than oem? Is it worth changing the universal ball joints on the tie rod ends?
I learned that Nytro geometry everywhere puts a lot of pressure on bushings. I did all new, every metal or plastic bushing, entire sled at 15000 miles, my front end + thread details all. New 2013 front end 3 piece spindle knuckles, steering knuckles, Oilite bushings on A arms and ski spindles, new spindles, new skis, rubbers, etc. Now at 3000 miles on them after adhesive lubricant a few times a year, zero play. I could not get Bushman parts so went Oilite, heard good about both systems.
 
I learned that Nytro geometry everywhere puts a lot of pressure on bushings. I did all new, every metal or plastic bushing, entire sled at 15000 miles, my front end + thread details all. New 2013 front end 3 piece spindle knuckles, steering knuckles, Oilite bushings on A arms and ski spindles, new spindles, new skis, rubbers, etc. Now at 3000 miles on them after adhesive lubricant a few times a year, zero play. I could not get Bushman parts so went Oilite, heard good about both systems.

Dude you should have put on the mtntec front end and would have been enjoying the benefits of a front end that works as advertised.
 
I learned that Nytro geometry everywhere puts a lot of pressure on bushings. I did all new, every metal or plastic bushing, entire sled at 15000 miles, my front end + thread details all. New 2013 front end 3 piece spindle knuckles, steering knuckles, Oilite bushings on A arms and ski spindles, new spindles, new skis, rubbers, etc. Now at 3000 miles on them after adhesive lubricant a few times a year, zero play. I could not get Bushman parts so went Oilite, heard good about both systems.
Where did you find the oilite bushing kit for the spindles? I ordered the oem bi-metal ones guess ill have to change them often. I did all the oilite in the a-arms last year along with the SB washer in the steering post and oilite steering blocks.
 
I found the nytro was hard on all the ball joints. The only one that would have a good life span is the large lower ball joint in the spindle.

The steering tie rod ball and the upper a arm ball would be toast after two seasons often
Ms
.
 
Dude you should have put on the mtntec front end and would have been enjoying the benefits of a front end that works as advertised.
I wanted to go that route and would now but at the time I had a super restricted budget. I am happy with the Oilite front end, SB pins and shims and Bergstrom full triple point system. Keeps the aggressive on top of it Nytro handling but keeps things one step back from the 2008 hair raising combination! Plan to do some MountainTech A arms at some point : )
 
I found the nytro was hard on all the ball joints. The only one that would have a good life span is the large lower ball joint in the spindle.

The steering tie rod ball and the upper a arm ball would be toast after two seasons often
Ms
.
The Hurst synthetic adhesive spray hinge grease seems to solve the wear issue due to dry surfaces on those parts. I hit it with a light spray, barely any, every few rides as part of my prep and greasing skid and the spray go s on like wd40, really penetrates, then evaporates leaving a sticky light coat that is waterproof... On season 4 coming up, still like new tight everywhere. I went with the 2013 three piece knuckles so I can replace $6 wear plates top and bottom of that main knuckle vs entire unit.
 
Where did you find the oilite bushing kit for the spindles? I ordered the oem bi-metal ones guess ill have to change them often. I did all the oilite in the a-arms last year along with the SB washer in the steering post and oilite steering blocks.
I think I found them at a few places, SB maybe, will check receipts.
 
Bushman kit is better than ulmer kit. I ran both.
Yes the Bushman spindle kit is really beefy and works great. I ran one in my Phazer and have one in my Nytro. If I remember it uses all machined stainless steel parts for a precise fit. I dont know if he is still making them but I hope he is? G.B.
 
Discovered all the ball joints have slight play too.. Man those baby's are pricey. 7000 hard miles so I won't complain too much just gonna bite the bullet and do the whole front end.
 
Discovered all the ball joints have slight play too.. Man those baby's are pricey. 7000 hard miles so I won't complain too much just gonna bite the bullet and do the whole front end.
Suck it up and buy the Yamaha ball joints. When I rebuilt my Nytro a couple years ago I tried to save some money and bought the SPI ball joints. The SPI ball joints lasted one season, like 1,400 miles and I wound up replacing the with the Yamaha ones after all. G.B.
 
Suck it up and buy the Yamaha ball joints. When I rebuilt my Nytro a couple years ago I tried to save some money and bought the SPI ball joints. The SPI ball joints lasted one season, like 1,400 miles and I wound up replacing the with the Yamaha ones after all. G.B.
Ordered all oem thanks for the heads up.
 


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