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Solving Starter Relay Corrosion and air intake screw tightening

steveg_nh said:
Well, this is a bummer. I found the bolts you were talking about. Easy. Until I got to the right side and saw one was missing. Ok, no big deal, buy a new one. Then I pulled the pod out and saw the ear is broken on that side. :( Previous owner didn't tell me that. Oh Well. Also the cowl trim on the left side is broken too, but that's cheap, so not a big deal. Anyway, is it worth a new light, or $180, or should I figure out a way to secure it? Poor design if you ask me, to have the whole headlight have to be replaced if this breaks.

This explains why the whole top seemed so loose and flimsy...bummer.

Edit: found some good ideas on this site for the headlight. Whew! Someone selling a kit with rubber bumpers. Hope he still has those.

And how the heck do you get to the far right air intake boot band when facing the sled? It's under some hoses and some type of mini manifold or something. Can't even see the hex head!
Click to expand...


Repair kit

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/headlight-repair-kits-now-in-stock.130818/
 

Also don't over tighten them clamps they will bend easy. just till you hit the stops is good.
 
Great thanks. Haven't heard from BOP yet but hoping they ship quick. Gonna attempt the oil filter change too since I have all this out already.
 
Never had a problem putting the air box back on the throttle bodies ....... just slow down , spray a little wd 40 inside the boot areas that slide over the throttle bodies start by making sure the bottom side of boots start first then with a close eye make sure they are on complete. rotate clamps to proper location then tighten until screw stops! a long T handel ball tip allen is the best tool for this.... done this many times.
 
Rich Kay said:
Never had a problem putting the air box back on the throttle bodies ....... just slow down , spray a little wd 40 inside the boot areas that slide over the throttle bodies start by making sure the bottom side of boots start first then with a close eye make sure they are on complete. rotate clamps to proper location then tighten until screw stops! a long T handel ball tip allen is the best tool for this.... done this many times.
Click to expand...

With the headlight removed it's a piece of cake for sure. Initially I didn't have the light removed so it seeemd impossible. I have an inspection camera too so I can look inside each boot elbow to make sure I'm even and seated all around.
 
Ok, my starter relay is still acting up, so I must have not cleaned it that well. I give up. Ordered a sued one from a vendor on this site, that is free of corrosion (new ones are back ordered till late September from Yamaha and I just want it done). Anyway, I really want to clean the connectors on the white plug, but for the life of me, I can't get the pins to release from the connector. Any tips? I want to wire brush them really good. Thanks
 
Just be careful when going the 'used' route. I too ordered a used starter relay for $10 along with a new starter from a vendor on this site but the relay ended up being bad/did not work. I ended up ordering a new one to just be done with it but that was earlier this year when they weren't on backorder. With that said, I just checked the place I ordered my relay from and they show it being in stock and ships within 24 hours for $47.56. I don't like to post links to non-vendors on this forum so will send you a PM with the link. ;)!
 
Thanks. I appreciate it. The bigger thing to me is getting the harness wires clean. I can't figure out how to release them from the connector.
 
Get a set of "jewelers" screw drivers. Grind down a flat blade screwdriver so that it is flat about 3/4" up the shaft.
Insert this new tool into the connector between the flat side of the terminal and the plastic from the side that goes to the relay. This will release the locking tab securing the terminal in the plastic connector.
Remember to bend this tab back up when inserting it back into the connector or it wont stay in place.
 
steiner said:
Get a set of "jewelers" screw drivers. Grind down a flat blade screwdriver so that it is flat about 3/4" up the shaft.
Insert this new tool into the connector between the flat side of the terminal and the plastic from the side that goes to the relay. This will release the locking tab securing the terminal in the plastic connector.
Remember to bend this tab back up when inserting it back into the connector or it wont stay in place.
Click to expand...
Just to confirm, as I took a look tonight - there is very little obvious space between the flat side of the connector, and the white connector itself, when coming in from the open end of the connector (non wire side, relay side), correct? I just don't want to force something in there where I shouldn't be.
 
steveg_nh said:
Just to confirm, as I took a look tonight - there is very little obvious space between the flat side of the connector, and the white connector itself, when coming in from the open end of the connector (non wire side, relay side), correct? I just don't want to force something in there where I shouldn't be.
Click to expand...
Yup. Very little room in there.
 
Got it thanks, And that explains why you need something durable, but almost paper thin. Thanks
 
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