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Sputter and stall after full pull

srxguy said:
Have you checked your float level? Just thinking out loud
Click to expand...

i was thinking i should….not a fun job.

i was also thinking possible TORS? but i have never heard the TORS activate before.

my sound is like the sound a launch control makes…..then if i shut the engine off, it will immediately start
back up and idle away…..until i apply any significant power (over 1/3 throttle)…then it comes back.
 

ghost rider said:
srxguy said:
Have you checked your float level? Just thinking out loud
Click to expand...

i was thinking i should….not a fun job.

i was also thinking possible TORS? but i have never heard the TORS activate before.

my sound is like the sound a launch control makes…..then if i shut the engine off, it will immediately start
back up and idle away…..until i apply any significant power (over 1/3 throttle)…then it comes back.
Click to expand...
I would check your throttle free play and your TORES
 
not TORS as it passed the by pass test..however it is still sputtering and popping like launch control is active (i don't have launch control)
….now it's doing it at 1/2 throttle and above…..at WOT it blasts for 10 sec ones and then starts to sputter and run out
like it has run out of gas with launch control on………it will cruise although roughly under 1/2 at around 7 thousand or less….WTF……I'm stumped.

is it time to pul the carbs?

Barry
 
ghost rider said:
nate007 said:
Carbs on anything are notoriously rich on decel. Sounds like you're just pig rich during decel, which ends up cooling the plugs down too much, causing the issue. BOV would help for sure, but a vacuum operated valve that opens when you have a vacuum signal behind the carbs would probably do the most good.
Check these out, I've had awesome luck with them.
http://www.synapseengineering.com/
They operate on both boost pressure as well as vacuum signal.
Click to expand...

Very slick engineering from synapse... They look rather large... Will it fit under the hood?
You can see in my avatar, the pipe that I would use to mount the valve.
Thanks for your help mr bond...

Barry
Click to expand...
The main body of the valve is about the size of a raquet ball? It measures 2 1/2" tall from the lock ring to the top of the body, and roughly 3 3/8" with a 90 degree fitting on it (not counting the mounting fitting), so they're not very big. I just messed around with an MPI kit this weekend that had their BOV and mine is a fair ammount smaller than MPI's.
You can get them with nearly any mounting flange to mount in place of most BOV's and by pass valves.
If you're interested in looking ito one, pm me and I can help you. I buy quite a few of them, and can set you up with one that you could bolt on and have very little adjusting if any. There is some onformation I'd need to help make sure it's set up right.
 
Id say pull the carbs for sure. It sounds like what my Redline was doing, and I found one jet had some crap stuck in it. Would run good with the choke part way on, but wouldn't run right without.
 
What changed from saturday to sunday?
Did you put in New fuel?
 
What is you throttle free play up at the lever?
What nate007 says, the pilot jets easily clogs.
It's hard to see it, hold it in front of a Bright light and Your should be able to see if they're clogged.
 
rxrider said:
What is you throttle free play up at the lever?
What nate007 says, the pilot jets easily clogs.
It's hard to see it, hold it in front of a Bright light and Your should be able to see if they're clogged.
Click to expand...

Throttle free play is about 4 mm or 1/8 " minimum
 
Barry[/quote]
The main body of the valve is about the size of a raquet ball? It measures 2 1/2" tall from the lock ring to the top of the body, and roughly 3 3/8" with a 90 degree fitting on it (not counting the mounting fitting), so they're not very big. I just messed around with an MPI kit this weekend that had their BOV and mine is a fair ammount smaller than MPI's.
You can get them with nearly any mounting flange to mount in place of most BOV's and by pass valves.
If you're interested in looking ito one, pm me and I can help you. I buy quite a few of them, and can set you up with one that you could bolt on and have very little adjusting if any. There is some onformation I'd need to help make sure it's set up right.[/quote


Thanks Nate, I cheeped out and got a turbo Xs BOV for 100 bucks it's for small turbos and under 2 litre engines- from my turbo guy.
I think it was a bad idea because the spring is too stiff to move the valve at 8 lbs boost.
I know the rule " you get what you pay for" and I should have been smarter. The synapse is amazing tech but it would have cost me 300 plus to ship to canada.... But it would work!!! Live and learn..... I spent so much dough on the skid and track that it's getting nuts... So I had to be cheap.... I hate that word because it's always a bad idea.........
I think you guys are right... Time to pull the carbs....because it ran great for a month than bang it starts to sputter... No reason or warning ... Now it does it under WOT not just decel.
 
The reason you ended up cutting the spring is because a car makes alot more vacuum at idle/decel than a sled engine does. Although it's sold as a <2l displacement compatable, its still going to be way too stiff for a sled system. While I read your post that cutting the spring helped, I would contact them and inquire about a low vacuum/tension spring.

Even with the Synapse I have to swap out the spring for one that is calibrated for the engine vacuum. I built a bench test jig for them though, and can set them up on the bench to open at the proper/desired vacuum, and still open at the max desired pressure. I'm running a different type of supercharger so my setup is different than a turbo or centrifugal blower, but the valve performs the same basic job. You don't necessarilly have to have the vacuum to hold it open at idle with a turbo, but the vacuum signal during decel helps to open it faster and "cleaner". That flutter dump sound that everyone thinks sounds cool is actually bad for your engine, and is usually a sign of an improperly tuned valve. Getting that thing tuned will take some messing with, but it should do the trick for you.
 
This is the reason why I swear by the Vortech MaxFlow Race Bypass valve.
No need to touch anything as it needs only 1.5 hPg vaccum to open. And it can never blow open either under high boost.
 
when i shorten the spring it will flutter the valve during idle….then if I stretch it out some it won't open.
I think the point about it being automotive is accurate in that vacuum at idle is way higher……

Getting a AFR installed in a couple days…..
 
BOV is working great now and the sled has stopped sputtering and stalling....
It was definitely flooding without the bov
 
Great to hear you got it up and running :)
 
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