Ricketts
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So the starter failure on the Phazer, from what I gathered in searching the topic, it seems like the front and rear halves twist over time (since the mounting holes are only on the back) and cause the issue, is that correct?
I was going to remove the starter and locktite those two long screws that hold the starter together, but I'm not sure that this would solve the problem, unless the problem IS that the two bolts come loose, allowing the starter to twist.
How hard is the starter to remove while the engine is still in the machine? Or should I just wait for the failure, and hopefully get a starter under warranty?
Thanks,
Rick
I was going to remove the starter and locktite those two long screws that hold the starter together, but I'm not sure that this would solve the problem, unless the problem IS that the two bolts come loose, allowing the starter to twist.
How hard is the starter to remove while the engine is still in the machine? Or should I just wait for the failure, and hopefully get a starter under warranty?
Thanks,
Rick


You got it right.Keep the bolts tight(Loctite)and starter runs forever.I would do it before it happens.If dealer gets it he will remove the whole motor to get the starter out to replace it.That takes a long time and you will miss riding since starter will fail when you are riding.If you do it yourself you can get it out with slight modding of motor or may be able to remove one bolt at a time and Loctite.
Jeremy
Expert
Should all Phazer owners do this or are only select models haveing this issue ??? I own a 08 Phazer RTX, just wondering when I do my initial oil change at 500 KMS I'm already going to have the whole sled ripped apart so will I be able to remove one bolt at a time then or is something else have to be removed ??? I am also going to be changing my track at the same time !!!
Ricketts
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cannondale27 said:If you do it yourself you can get it out with slight modding of motor or may be able to remove one bolt at a time and Loctite.
Thanks for the info, Cannondale. What mod needs to be done to the engine to remove the starter? If I leave the starter in place, I can see how to get to the one long bolt, but not the other. If I remove the two mounting bolts at the rear of the starter, will it slide out easily or is it going to be a PITA? I may try to remove the starter, leaving it in the chassis, but hopefully be able to move it around to get at the other long bolt.
Jeremy: I think there is an updated starter out now, but I'm not sure what years of Phazer were affected by the old one. I wonder what they did to the updated starter to eliminate this problem?
Just did some more searching...I think I know how to get the starter out...I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks again,
Rick


Yes I was looking for the post with pics on the tab that gets ground on engine to make starter removal easy.Cant seem to find it.I got mine out after a good bit of maneuvering.It was a pain but one bolt was loose already so glad I did it.
I think the 08's might have been taken care of already.Probably best bet is to ask dealer if thier is some kind of a list with affected sleds.
I think the 08's might have been taken care of already.Probably best bet is to ask dealer if thier is some kind of a list with affected sleds.
Ricketts
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So I've ground down the one tab that seems to be in the way, but still no joy. I have the starter out and wiggling around, so now I can at least get at the two long bolts easily. It is so close to being out, but there doesn't seem to be anything else in the way that can be safely removed (or ground down).
The alignment tabs on the backside are now easily visible. On the main body of the starter there is a green line that runs the length of the cylinder to assist in the alignment, this green line shows that my starter is still just about bang on. The tab at the rear of the starter is slightly misaligned by less than 0.5mm or so (I think this is around 0.02 inches, pretty tiny).
Is this anything to worry about? If I loosen (but not remove) the two long bolts, can I shift the rear slightly to properly align it, or is this going to cause more grief than good, since I can't get the starter completely out?
If this is nothing to worry about, I might just loosen each bolt and locktite while the starter is still inside the frame.
Kind of a pain. I really wanted to get the starter out, more on the principle of the thing
Rick
The alignment tabs on the backside are now easily visible. On the main body of the starter there is a green line that runs the length of the cylinder to assist in the alignment, this green line shows that my starter is still just about bang on. The tab at the rear of the starter is slightly misaligned by less than 0.5mm or so (I think this is around 0.02 inches, pretty tiny).
Is this anything to worry about? If I loosen (but not remove) the two long bolts, can I shift the rear slightly to properly align it, or is this going to cause more grief than good, since I can't get the starter completely out?
If this is nothing to worry about, I might just loosen each bolt and locktite while the starter is still inside the frame.
Kind of a pain. I really wanted to get the starter out, more on the principle of the thing

Rick


Just loctite the bolts one at a time since yours is still working and sounds like its still aligned.Your bolts are probably still tight.Will find out when you remove them.Wish I could help you get it out all the way.Honestly I dont know how I got it out.Quite alot of maneuvering and then it just came right out.
Ricketts
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Thanks, I'll let you know how I make out.
Rick
Rick
Ricketts
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The starter's in. It was reasonably easy to remove the two long bolts holding the starter together (one at a time) and locktite them while the starter was still in the machine. I had removed the starter but could not get it out of the chassis, but could turn it around to get at both bolts.
By removing them and locktite'ing them one at a time, I did not disrupt the indexing marks on the backside of the starter. If anyone is trying this to save their starters, there is one aluminum tab that will be in the way (you will see which one when you try to remove it - its the one that is in the way when disconnecting the positve cable from the starter). It is pretty easy (but uncomfortable) to use a sawzall to cut this off, if you have an 8 inch metal blade, if not, a Dremel with some type of grinding bit will suffice.
Sorry, I should have taken pictures (I never think of this until its too late). If you are going to pull the starter, don't forget to drain your engine oil first. So you can do it while changing your oil.
Thanks to Cannondale for the tips, hoping the starter will out last the Phazer now
Rick
By removing them and locktite'ing them one at a time, I did not disrupt the indexing marks on the backside of the starter. If anyone is trying this to save their starters, there is one aluminum tab that will be in the way (you will see which one when you try to remove it - its the one that is in the way when disconnecting the positve cable from the starter). It is pretty easy (but uncomfortable) to use a sawzall to cut this off, if you have an 8 inch metal blade, if not, a Dremel with some type of grinding bit will suffice.
Sorry, I should have taken pictures (I never think of this until its too late). If you are going to pull the starter, don't forget to drain your engine oil first. So you can do it while changing your oil.
Thanks to Cannondale for the tips, hoping the starter will out last the Phazer now

Rick


I think it will.Great job.Glad I could give you some encouragement to "Get'er Done!"
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