YamahaHoss
Extreme
Hi folks--bought a real nice used sled--a 06 RS venture with only 4300 miles. Picked it up last week, guy said new battery is in--but went to drive it 4 days after purchase and battery is real low. and lights were barely on, and dash lights went out. Surprise Surplice--the guy dumped me a sled he did not want to deal with--love when guys do this!! Parked it and charged it. Checked it yesterday and Battery is at 12.63 but when running--that drops to 12.26 and at 5000 RPM it stays at 12.26. I then checked for visual damages on wires, and also looked at starter solenoid fuses and those connectors and the solenoid itself--all looked really good. So obviously have some charging problems. I have been working hard to find as much as possible about this issue and it sounds like I need to do this: (this is "my Plan" after all the research yesterday I did--I DO NOT know For Sure if it is correct?? Can the experts please let me know)
2. CHeck Ohms resistance on plug coming out of Stator within the plug itself in the different combinations--and that should be .22 to .26 at 68 degrees (I am NOT certain of these values--never could find specs but other threads have said this?) And those values should all be the same. My friends shop is at about 55 degrees--I do not know what the ohms reading should be then ?? ideas?
3. DO the same but now this time with the Com ground do the engine and that should real "UL"" (everything is aluminum in there--where should you ground the Com to? )
4. Then start the Engine and take reading now at that same connection and check for AC Voltage coming out of that connection. It should read in the 22 to 30 AC Volt range for each slot and diff combinations
5. Now Move up the the Rectifier / Regulator (RR) . With engine off---check the connector that has the 3 wires coming into the RR (this is the same one that was checked by the stator)--will be different wire colors and it was down by the Stator but that is normal-- those Ohm reading should be basically the same as they were down by the stator---( to make sure the Ohm Resistance is the same as it was just out of the Stator .22 to ,26 ) and also check it off of a ground on the engine as was done previously--should read "UL" when grounded off the engine
6. Now check the two wire Connector going to the RR . Set the Multimeter (MM) to 20 V DC VOlts, and check the two slots with the engine off and it should be 12.98 to about 13.0 DC volts with Off (this is the connector coming from the battery to the rectifier Do I have this correct here?) When done--click that back into the RR
6. Now start the engine and take off the 3 wire connector on the RR and set MM at 200 Volts AC and , measure the volts now being sent to the RR. by putting Com in far right tab and Red lead in the tab next to it. Then move red lead to far left tab and read again.
7. These should read 25 to 30 volts for each of the connector tabs --and also move the com to the middle tab and then check with red lead to the other two open tabs as we did before. They should all be the same
8. SHut engine off. Now plug that connector back into the RR, and then disconnect the 2 wire connector again in the RR
9. Now start the engine again, and then check the poles coming out the the RR to that 2 wire plug. Set MM to 20 volts DC and it should read 14 to 16 DC volts coming out of these poles (which means that this is being supplied back to the battery)
10. If any problems yet--check the grounds ( I read about the Ground Block Problems--but it looks like this is a 4 cylinder model problem but I could be wrong) but still check the grounds--But I do not know where these are ? Help here?
** I watched the RM Stator video on how to bench check the RR--but it seems like that if the battery is good, the connections are good and ther Stator tests out bad---you change the Stator. If the Stator test out good--then the RR need to be changed.--sound right?
* So how does that sound? is it correct--the plan I have for todays shop work--or am I missing some things- NAY Help==points, tips would be so appreciated!!
2. CHeck Ohms resistance on plug coming out of Stator within the plug itself in the different combinations--and that should be .22 to .26 at 68 degrees (I am NOT certain of these values--never could find specs but other threads have said this?) And those values should all be the same. My friends shop is at about 55 degrees--I do not know what the ohms reading should be then ?? ideas?
3. DO the same but now this time with the Com ground do the engine and that should real "UL"" (everything is aluminum in there--where should you ground the Com to? )
4. Then start the Engine and take reading now at that same connection and check for AC Voltage coming out of that connection. It should read in the 22 to 30 AC Volt range for each slot and diff combinations
5. Now Move up the the Rectifier / Regulator (RR) . With engine off---check the connector that has the 3 wires coming into the RR (this is the same one that was checked by the stator)--will be different wire colors and it was down by the Stator but that is normal-- those Ohm reading should be basically the same as they were down by the stator---( to make sure the Ohm Resistance is the same as it was just out of the Stator .22 to ,26 ) and also check it off of a ground on the engine as was done previously--should read "UL" when grounded off the engine
6. Now check the two wire Connector going to the RR . Set the Multimeter (MM) to 20 V DC VOlts, and check the two slots with the engine off and it should be 12.98 to about 13.0 DC volts with Off (this is the connector coming from the battery to the rectifier Do I have this correct here?) When done--click that back into the RR
6. Now start the engine and take off the 3 wire connector on the RR and set MM at 200 Volts AC and , measure the volts now being sent to the RR. by putting Com in far right tab and Red lead in the tab next to it. Then move red lead to far left tab and read again.
7. These should read 25 to 30 volts for each of the connector tabs --and also move the com to the middle tab and then check with red lead to the other two open tabs as we did before. They should all be the same
8. SHut engine off. Now plug that connector back into the RR, and then disconnect the 2 wire connector again in the RR
9. Now start the engine again, and then check the poles coming out the the RR to that 2 wire plug. Set MM to 20 volts DC and it should read 14 to 16 DC volts coming out of these poles (which means that this is being supplied back to the battery)
10. If any problems yet--check the grounds ( I read about the Ground Block Problems--but it looks like this is a 4 cylinder model problem but I could be wrong) but still check the grounds--But I do not know where these are ? Help here?
** I watched the RM Stator video on how to bench check the RR--but it seems like that if the battery is good, the connections are good and ther Stator tests out bad---you change the Stator. If the Stator test out good--then the RR need to be changed.--sound right?
* So how does that sound? is it correct--the plan I have for todays shop work--or am I missing some things- NAY Help==points, tips would be so appreciated!!
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2009
- Messages
- 3,944
- Location
- Greely, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- '07 Venture MP (gone)
'07 Phazer FX (gone)
'09 Phazer GT (gone)
'10 RS Venture GT (My current ride)
'10 Nytro FX (son's)
- LOCATION
- Greely, ON Canada
Should be close to the same. With such low resistances, there shouldn't be much change. I wouldn't worry about it.
Check for shorts to ground from each stator wire to engine block. DMM should stay at OL or open. If it shows ANY resistance or 0, it's bad.
This video is pretty good and tried to show how to test RR's however, as you'll see, the Yamaha are not that easy to check. They don't mention snowmobiles but they are the same. They also link to other videos to test the stator and a running test of the stator. If the stator test is good as well as the battery and wiring, that leaves only the regulator.
YamahaHoss
Extreme
Well --it is official-- the Stator is toast. I did all the tests as described above and plus one I forgot to mention--the testing of the 3 wire Stator wire connector Ohm test with the Com to the Negative battery terminal and then I also checked it with the Com to an engine bolt. Both of those blew up with 1.4 to 1.6 on all three wire tabs. Just for reference purposes for guys who take this on--I took the six different types of measurements and the 2 wire lead to the rectifier tested very well. the problem was the Stator Wire connector. In fact the Stator, which is 3 phase, had one of the wires--the far left--not registering any volts at all when running unless paired with the center wire. The Resistance tests were between 1.1 and 1.7 -when tested from each spot within the wire connector. And when checking the rectifier output reading while running it produced a whopping .01 volts out of its poles. I am assuming the rectifier is ok--but I will check that static results tomorrow, In the meant time--I took apart everything on that side, and it actually is very easy--EXCEPT now I am at that point that I need to figure out how to get the three allen head bolts out on the bottom right side corner that is behind the frame? and then get the Stator cover off? ( is sa where some guys actually cut away the frame there??--yikes--that is extruded aluminum and the frame rail down there is only 2.5 inches wide to begin with?? scary to thin of doing that? ) So what actually has to come off, yet to get that out and some people have said to just remove the front engine mount bolt and loosen the rear one? Isn't that going to put huge pressure on the exhaust header system? looking for some help--again... Thanks folks
