Stock Sidewinder clutch changes

[Clintww]

Hello All,
My first time posting even though I have been looking for years. I have just bought a 2017 Side Winder that is stock and not studded. I broke the golden rule of buying a used sled and then taking it on a trip without looking anything over. Anyway at about 200 miles it blew the Ultimax belt the first time i pushed it to 9000 rpm. Makes quite the sound at that engine speed. I have never in my life blown a belt on any sled.

Anyway there is so much discussion on what clutch changes to make on this site, it gets confusing.

My question is what is the most dependable clutch changes to make for a stock sled?
What parts should Ichange out for a stock powered engine?

I love how it drives now and would like to keep it close as to engagement speed and rpm levels.

I have read the basics here, I need to check the stub shaft and alignment to book settings I believe. I did notice on of the secondary rollers is flat spotted and has been dragging the ramp.

Thank you for your help,

 

[Fords4life]

Clutch offset set right is your best friend, my 2017 was a belt eater it looked like when i bought it last year about this time of year. When i checked it offset was about 61mm, pulled all shims out and back of secondary pushs up to snap ring now and i have 58mm offset, no blown belts in 800 miles now.

 

[Motorhead]

So first things first. Sounds like you need some new rollers for your secondary clutch. I bought some Cat torlon rollers for mine during it’s first season. Stock ones and the stock replacement ones were crap. Many aftermarket dealers right here on TY that sell good secondary replacement rollers.

I would check on the back of your primary clutch, making sure it does not hit on the stub shaft bolts. Just take a flashlight with belt removed and you can look at that back side of your primary clutch. There should be a bit of room between your outer clutch sheave and those stub shaft bolts, about 1/16 - 1/8” is my guess. If they are hitting and gouging the back side of the primary clutch, well then clutch and stub shaft will have to come off so that stub shaft bearing can be repositioned to correct spot.

I found that my stock weights, bushings and pins last quite a while. And so do the rollers, bushings and pins!

I got 8K on mine and found that the replacement green torlon do not work on the primary!

Problem is if one goes, it will take the other with it quickly, so give them a quick check by simply removing your primary clutch spring for a thorough inspection.

Otherwise as already stated, Check your offset and choose a belt.
The Carlisle XS825 is best whereas it runs clean but it will cause your rpms to lose 200 - 300 rpms until fully broken in, when compared to the stock 8JP belt. The 8JP belt makes a bit of dirty dust and is not as tough.

Your helix wrap should be stock 3/3, but 6/1 was My preference.

Give your sled a once over to make sure all else is well, and try again. Good luck!

I’ll stop there before we get too deep in maintenance, but learn how to remove your muffler for chain case service or chain tension checks!

 

[THEPASMAN]

What he said and remember don’t under any circumstances turn engine over when doing clutch service clockwise (backwards)

Very important

 

[74Nitro]

So first things first. Sounds like you need some new rollers for your secondary clutch. I bought some Cat torlon rollers for mine during it’s first season. Stock ones and the stock replacement ones were crap. Many aftermarket dealers right here on TY that sell good secondary replacement rollers.

I would check on the back of your primary clutch, making sure it does not hit on the stub shaft bolts. Just take a flashlight with belt removed and you can look at that back side of your primary clutch. There should be a bit of room between your outer clutch sheave and those stub shaft bolts, about 1/16 - 1/8” is my guess. If they are hitting and gouging the back side of the primary clutch, well then clutch and stub shaft will have to come off so that stub shaft bearing can be repositioned to correct spot.

I found that my stock weights, bushings and pins last quite a while. And so do the rollers, bushings and pins!

I got 8K on mine and found that the replacement green torlon do not work on the primary!

Problem is if one goes, it will take the other with it quickly, so give them a quick check by simply removing your primary clutch spring for a thorough inspection.

Otherwise as already stated, Check your offset and choose a belt.
The Carlisle XS825 is best whereas it runs clean but it will cause your rpms to lose 200 - 300 rpms until fully broken in, when compared to the stock 8JP belt. The 8JP belt makes a bit of dirty dust and is not as tough.

Your helix wrap should be stock 3/3, but 6/1 was My preference.

Give your sled a once over to make sure all else is well, and try again. Good luck!

I’ll stop there before we get too deep in maintenance, but learn how to remove your muffler for chain case service or chain tension checks!

I use the Cat rollers also.

 

[bleedyamaha]

You could just replace the helix and spring when you replace the rollers lots to choose from from members here.

 

[actionjack]

Don't assume its a belt blower, yet. How many miles on sled and belt? Change the rollers as stated and see what happens. Look for other obvious issues in primary and secondary. My Winder is not a belt blower and my offset is no where near the magic number always listed here.

 

[actionjack]

Clutch kit

Is ANYBODY selling just a clutch kit for the stock guys? Would like to see results of a test between stock sled and clutched. I know, I know, who keeps their turbo stock but I am sure their are many that will for warranty reasons.

ty4stroke.com

Ulmer Racing or Thunder Products stock clutch kits

 

[74Nitro]

Bad grooving.

 

[Doc Harley]

You'll need to or have someone verify clutch alignment.
1) get a primary clutch puller
2) replace secondary rollers with cat rollers.
3) replace both primary & secondary springs with stock Yamaha springs.
4) completely clean clutches With Dawn & bristle brush then completely dry with compressed air. scuff friction surface with green Scotch Brite pads.
5) stock helix works very well.
5) get a new 8jp belt. Wash it with Dawn & water. Let dry.
Come here with pics and questions along the way. Very good group of peeps.

Or

Ship your sled and or clutches to someone by you or here that does work on the side.

The Sidewinder needs some looking after to run amazing all the time.
There's probably some other things that may have been overlooked by previous owner.

I've owned a '17 since the '16/'17 season. And believe the stock clutch parts work very well together & it makes a great starting point.

 

[Simplespeed]

All good information guys… keep clutches in balance also important. Both clutches should be taken apart and put back together the same way when cleaning and making changes…

 

[Clintww]

Clutch offset set right is your best friend, my 2017 was a belt eater it looked like when i bought it last year about this time of year. When i checked it offset was about 61mm, pulled all shims out and back of secondary pushs up to snap ring now and i have 58mm offset, no blown belts in 800 miles now.

This is encouraging. I have read many seem to solve the problem.

 

[Clintww]

Bad grooving.

Mine looks like this too. Can it be saved with some sanding and polishing?

 

[Clintww]

You'll need to or have someone verify clutch alignment.
1) get a primary clutch puller
2) replace secondary rollers with cat rollers.
3) replace both primary & secondary springs with stock Yamaha springs.
4) completely clean clutches With Dawn & bristle brush then completely dry with compressed air. scuff friction surface with green Scotch Brite pads.
5) stock helix works very well.
5) get a new 8jp belt. Wash it with Dawn & water. Let dry.
Come here with pics and questions along the way. Very good group of peeps.

Or

Ship your sled and or clutches to someone by you or here that does work on the side.

The Sidewinder needs some looking after to run amazing all the time.
There's probably some other things that may have been overlooked by previous owner.

I've owned a '17 since the '16/'17 season. And believe the stock clutch parts work very well together & it makes a great starting point.

Do you know if the clutch puller for the RX1 is the same? I already have one of them.

 

[KnappAttack]

Do you know if the clutch puller for the RX1 is the same? I already have one of them.

Yes, the RX-1 puller will work fine. Don't try and use a badly grooved & worn helix.