Hello Guys,
I had a question about the stub shaft and the bearing. We are going to tackle this shortly because the bearing moved in the housing. One thing I could not find is what the measurement from the front of the stub shaft is to the bearing. Is there a stop on the stub shaft that does not allow it to move any further back/forward? Do you guys lock tight the bearing to the shaft as well? or just to the housing? I read how to remove bearing from housing via heat gun. Then to reinstall freeze the bearing and shaft overnight and then heat up the housing again, apply lock tight and slide frozen bearing and shaft back into housing. Sorry for the longwinded typing here. Just want to make sure it is done right the first time.
Thanks for the info in advance
RB
I had a question about the stub shaft and the bearing. We are going to tackle this shortly because the bearing moved in the housing. One thing I could not find is what the measurement from the front of the stub shaft is to the bearing. Is there a stop on the stub shaft that does not allow it to move any further back/forward? Do you guys lock tight the bearing to the shaft as well? or just to the housing? I read how to remove bearing from housing via heat gun. Then to reinstall freeze the bearing and shaft overnight and then heat up the housing again, apply lock tight and slide frozen bearing and shaft back into housing. Sorry for the longwinded typing here. Just want to make sure it is done right the first time.
Thanks for the info in advance
RB
Sevey
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Yes - the bearing rests against a ledge on the shaft. So it can only be pressed on so far.
The housing comes off fairly easy - with the right tools. I used a slide hammer that was attached to the clutch bolt with a number of washers so it didnt damage the bolt. Does not hurt to use heat from a heat gun and penetrating oil.
There are several ways to go about it once the housing is off. Hurricane Dave made some videos and showed it coming apart with a sludge hammer and some 2x4's. Personally I would use a shop press.
MS
The housing comes off fairly easy - with the right tools. I used a slide hammer that was attached to the clutch bolt with a number of washers so it didnt damage the bolt. Does not hurt to use heat from a heat gun and penetrating oil.
There are several ways to go about it once the housing is off. Hurricane Dave made some videos and showed it coming apart with a sludge hammer and some 2x4's. Personally I would use a shop press.
MS
JerryBones
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I just did this on the weekend, I too had similar questions before starting but once you get it out you will see the shaft can only be pressed so far into the bearing. I used a small shop press and the bearing came out of the housing really easily. The shaft took way more force to press out of the bearing and made a loud pop when it came free. To re-install I pressed the shaft back into the bearing bottomed out on the shoulder and then pressed the bearing back into the housing. I used green loctite on both, figured it couldn't hurt
okay I finally was able to look at it. Another question I have is the bearing inner race has some play. I checked other bearing and they have zero play in the inner race and the bearings. Could this have been damaged when the belt blew? I can hold the housing and move the stub shaft slightly up and down. Not a lot of play but worth a question for the experts.
As always thank you guys for all the help.
RB
As always thank you guys for all the help.
RB
Fords4life
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The three that i have had in my hands, all had some very slight movement, up and down or side to side, they have to have some clearance.
Sevey
TY 4 Stroke God
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I have been around several of these bearings, used and new.
That bearing when brand new has a fair bit of lateral play. It does not feel like a wheel bearing - (nice and tight) or even a drive bearing.
As the miles add up that play can slightly increase - but I wouldn’t be too concerned. Your best reference is to feel a new one and then you can judge.
I would be more concerned about spinning it and feeling for ticks or inconsistency as it spins.
Hope that helps
MS
That bearing when brand new has a fair bit of lateral play. It does not feel like a wheel bearing - (nice and tight) or even a drive bearing.
As the miles add up that play can slightly increase - but I wouldn’t be too concerned. Your best reference is to feel a new one and then you can judge.
I would be more concerned about spinning it and feeling for ticks or inconsistency as it spins.
Hope that helps
MS
Thanks guys. I really appreciate the help.
Merry Christmas everyone
RB
Merry Christmas everyone
RB
