Studding an LTX Vector

[yamagone]

Can my buddy get away with using 1450 studs on his 2012 LTX?

 

[MrSled]

if you add material to your current protectors maybe. Those will eat the rear heat exchanger.

 

[DGZRT]

ttps://ty4stroke.com/threads/anyone-who-studded-a-2010-vector-ltx-read.88497/

A lot of info here! Regardless of what length you end up using . Add at least a 1/2" to 1" of added thickness to the rear of the tunnel protectors. I used old slides and added 16" over the back heat exchanger.

 

[yamagone]

Ok I understand adding extra protection for the rear exchanger but what about the front? We can't really judge the front clearance without actually putting a 1450 in the track.

 

[DGZRT]

http://www.studboytraction.com/studpatterns/lugheight_studheightchart.pdf
Maybe this will help ?? 1.45 look to be to long but it depends how the stud MFG measures there own studs . If your track balloons on a high speed run you might be in trouble


Good luck

 

[yamagone]

He's playing it safe and using 1325's.

 

[CaptCaper]

He's playing it safe and using 1325's.

that's smart thing to do.. I've got 25k with 1.325's on our LTX's over the years.. no issues ..once in a blue moon a bent one. NO pullouts. 1 1/2 in over the cooler a must or else..bye bye rear cooler.

 

[yamagone]

that's smart thing to do.. I've got 25k with 1.325's on our LTX's over the years.. no issues ..once in a blue moon a bent one. NO pullouts. 1 1/2 in over the cooler a must or else..bye bye rear cooler.

10-4 on the added protection. I made him up some nylon blocks similar to hyfax material to rivet to factory protectors. That's weird the factory set up doesn't protect the rear cooler when studded. Why wouldn't Yamaha make them deeper? Most people stud their sleds.

 

[CaptCaper]

10-4 on the added protection. I made him up some nylon blocks similar to hyfax material to rivet to factory protectors. That's weird the factory set up doesn't protect the rear cooler when studded. Why wouldn't Yamaha make them deeper? Most people stud their sleds.

I used that plastic board you can get white or black this time.. much better then using hyfax. Which I used in the past. I got it in 1/2 in sheet and ripped it to 1 in.

 

[Brotherdan]

I used that plastic board you can get white or black this time.. much better then using hyfax. Which I used in the past. I got it in 1/2 in sheet and ripped it to 1 in.

are you talking about vinyl house/building trim boards?also are you measuring the thickness on top of the original protector?So if the original protector is 1/2" thick&you add 1" on top to come up with the 1 1/2"?

 

[CaptCaper]

are you talking about vinyl house/building trim boards?also are you measuring the thickness on top of the original protector?So if the original protector is 1/2" thick&you add 1" on top to come up with the 1 1/2"?

No... King Starboard is so much better. Each machine is a bit different. depends on cooler.. as well. Yami made a cooler that didn't have a track to lay the Oem protector in. Being the 1" lays inside the channel the overall protection is less then 1 in OEM. So you need to add 3/4 or 1in to be sure.
So measure the protection you have now overall length of the cooler and buy the Starboard you need. On our latest machines the OEM lays in the channel. So I bought 1/2 in Starboard. Doubled up. 1st one went past cooler towards the upper wheels where I could still bolt it. The second one on top of the first to just past the cooler bolted as well thru both. 3 bolts 1/4 in size over all. One at the back that went thru both . Then another one forward a bit of the cooler that went thru both then the last one that went ( towards upper wheels) thru just the one. Again this is on the two new machines ( one vector ltx one vector xtx )I just did this past month. The Attak machines I use too have I used hyfax and 1 in aluminum tubing cause there was no oem protection by yami back then. I wish I had used the starboard with the 1" aluminum...nice stuff that Starboard.. duh...slow brained..I guess.
I'll take a pic later of the most recent installs... to give a good idea. I used a cheap angle drill from Harbor Freight and dropped the upper wheels so I could drill up on the 2 forward bolts.

 

[BryKlu]

Are you dragging for cash? If not maybe consider a pre-studded track. I just put on an Ice Attak XT track and it is amazing. I can make it slip just enough for a slight drift to get a better turning angle and not feel like you're on rails. It is just the right amount of playful if not slightly too nailed to the trail. The studs the previous owner put on were coming loose and the backings were tearing up my bogeys and sliders. It's basically a Ripsaw II with 297 studs. Although I can't say so myself yet, I have read other's positive testaments regarding the longevity of the the studs and them not ripping out. You can get one for $570 after shipping from CB Performance parts (linked below) which is the best deal I found.

https://www.cbperformanceparts.com/camoplast-tracks/136-tracks/ice-attak-136-9029h/