Homer2002
Newbie
I have 2010 Vector LTX GT. I installed 1.325" studs and added an extra 1/4" of protection by the rear exchanger. Went for a ride and the studs were hitting the exchanger a little. I added another 1/4" of protection for a total of 1/2" extra stud protection. I figured I had the problem solved and went on a weekend trip. Checked the exchanger during the trip and was shocked to see that the exchanger fins were shredded. No leaks as the studs never reached the body of the exchanger. I figured my track may have been a little loose so I tightened it and added the fourth wheel to the rear axle since the damage appeared to be worse on the one side. Well after another trip ( good one, 1700 kms ), the studs are still hitting. I also noticed today as I was washing the sled that the track lugs are wearing where they are hitting the extra protection I added over the rear exchanger. The sled is essentially bottoming out on the stud protectors rather than the suspension bottoming out as it would without the protectors. Even if I went with shorter studs, they would still hit. As of right now I have at least a 1/4" of penetration into the exchanger fins. I know other people are studding these sleds. I can't figure what else I can do. I don't know how other people are studding these sleds without the same issues. It's not like I'm 300 lbs. I weigh about 210 lbs with all my riding gear on. The suspension is set up pretty stiff. Even if it was set up as stiff as possible, it would still bottom out eventually on a huge or hidden bump at the bottom of a hill for example, so that is not the solution. Anybody have any ideas?
EX TOPGASSER
Newbie
Homer2002
I have 2009 Vector LTX GT. Same problem with the same size studs. I added 1" aluminum square bar stock to the existing Factory 1" hollow tubing protectors. No issues any longer. I pretty sure that a combination of track whip and the flex of the track lugs is causing most of the problem. On paper everything you did should provide adequate clearance. I did the same thing initially but discovered I needed more. I also weigh 210 with gear. No longer an issue other than the fact that the exchanger looks like $#@#%*.
My preload is set on the second stiffest setting.
My 2 cents.
I have 2009 Vector LTX GT. Same problem with the same size studs. I added 1" aluminum square bar stock to the existing Factory 1" hollow tubing protectors. No issues any longer. I pretty sure that a combination of track whip and the flex of the track lugs is causing most of the problem. On paper everything you did should provide adequate clearance. I did the same thing initially but discovered I needed more. I also weigh 210 with gear. No longer an issue other than the fact that the exchanger looks like $#@#%*.
My preload is set on the second stiffest setting.
My 2 cents.
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
I dont know if it is different on the vector, but on the Rx's/Warriors we extended the tunnel protectors to go over the rear exchanger, and thickened them by 1 1/2.
Homer2002
Newbie
The thing I have an issue with now is the fact that the track lugs are wearing from hitting the extra protection I have added. If I add even more to it they will wear more and I will be continually bottoming out on them way before the suspension should bottom out. Very annoying. This sled is not designed to be studded. I wish I knew this before I bought it. I am thinking of removing the rear exchanger and seeing if I have overheating issues.
Vector Julie
Extreme
Currently have a 2009 Vector LTX GT with 1.375 Studs in the track and I weigh 225 lbs.
Originally I added an additional 1/2 " aluminum stock to the factory protectors over rear heat exchanger, still grooved the cooler fins.
Removed the 1/2" material and then added 1.0 x 1.0 aluminum tube over factory protectors, problem solved and cannot see any lug wear on track.
Would "not" remove rear cooler, these sleds need all the cooling protection they have in marginal conditions
Originally I added an additional 1/2 " aluminum stock to the factory protectors over rear heat exchanger, still grooved the cooler fins.
Removed the 1/2" material and then added 1.0 x 1.0 aluminum tube over factory protectors, problem solved and cannot see any lug wear on track.
Would "not" remove rear cooler, these sleds need all the cooling protection they have in marginal conditions
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
jamesc
Pro
judging by the things you're posting i think something else is going on. i have a 2010 ltx and it's studed but haven't seen any signs of damage yet. i have about 1000 miles on it and have to confess have been riding it harder than it's really intended for. believe me i've bottomed it more than once. now if you're launching it in the air that's a whole different story as imho this sled is not designed for that. here's a pic of my mod which i machined from nylon bar stock 3/4" if i remember correctly.
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CaptCaper
TY 4 Stroke God
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jamesc said:
Nice job..Nylon can be had at West Marine etc. and machined easier then Aluminum.
I hope 3/4 is enough. My Attak had to have close to 1 1/2 ". It scraped at 1 1/4". But it is slightly different. The cooler wasn't oem install.
With that said I saw a post in the Apex were a guy had to go to 1 1/2 in. total over the cooler on his Apex LTX OEM installed one.
Keep us posted on how it makes out.
jim
