super lite pro backers

jeff_yam

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Anyone that use super lite pro backers can comment about how they last? Do they break easily?
 
I’ve used them for years and never had one break. I use all doubles though.
 
Been using doubles for 3 season's and 5500 miles not 1 failure.
 
Ran them as all singles with 320 hp for a couple of seasons and they still looked as new then as when I installed them. Top quality product!
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Thank you for answering. I have taped half way thru them as KnappAttack recommend in an other thread, what is the torque spec for them?
 
Depends how you ride. If you take it easy and only ride good conditions they are good. My buddy lost a bunch one year on a stock Nytro, properly installed, but It was a low snow year and we ride like lunatics for the most part. I personally wouldn't run them.
 
Thank you for answering. I have taped half way thru them as KnappAttack recommend in an other thread, what is the torque spec for them?


I run Megabites and tighten them down till they bottom the shoulder out. You can strip them out so don't get too carried away. I've stripped a few out and had to throw them away when that happens.
 
I run Megabites and tighten them down till they bottom the shoulder out. You can strip them out so don't get too carried away. I've stripped a few out and had to throw them away when that happens.

Sorry for my bad english but what do you mean by "tighten them down till they bottom the shoulder out"? Also do you have some tips about install them on a quiet track? The 4/2/4/2 pattern seem to have a lot of stud on quiet pad.

Thank you
 
Sorry for my bad english but what do you mean by "tighten them down till they bottom the shoulder out"? Also do you have some tips about install them on a quiet track? The 4/2/4/2 pattern seem to have a lot of stud on quiet pad.

Thank you

Shoulder = the part of the stud that is not threaded, that will hit the backer. I don't have mine on a quiet track. I used warm soapy water when installing them.
 
I know what is the shoulder but I just wondering if it has to be torqued enough to be flush with the surface of the track.
 
I cut my quiet lugs down flush so stud would bottom out and not ride hard into the wheels or not sit flat on track.
 
I have run these ProLite backers for 2 years (about 4000 miles) on Midwest groomed trails in both good conditions and some poor. I am mindful about where and how I use throttle (like not spinning track over cement curbs or rocks when possible). I have only broken 1. I am using 1.62" carbide Lake Racer Stud Boy studs (192). I made a little modified hole cutter tool to remove the quiet track lug where the stud heads are. It's a 15/16" diameter hole (diameter of Stud Boy Lake Racer head) drill with a settable stop on it. It works great. I end up with head of the studs flush with inside of track and when I run it on stand I can hardly hear there's studs in the track.
Last summer I stopped by the Stud Boy display at Hay Days and chatted about best (strongest) was to install their Lake Racer studs with ProLite backers. They advised me to run a tap all the way through each hole and then when installing each stud apply a drop or 2 of super glue. Tighten stud to just before stripping and best to only use a hand ratchet (not air or electric impact) so you can feel how tight the stud is. They're hard to strip (with a 3/8" hand ratchet) believe me. The downside of using super glue is it basically welds the stud into the backer. If you ever need to remove a stud, just apply some heat to it first to soften the super glue. It works great. Never had a stud come loose. See pics.
 

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I cut my quiet lugs down flush so stud would bottom out and not ride hard into the wheels or not sit flat on track.
which tool did you use use to cut the bump
 


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