Taking the Winder out 1st time after pronouncing it fixed!—Strong NO!

[actionjack]

I’m not accusing anyone of anything at all, I’m just saying something doesn’t add up with this. It seems very improbable to me that 3 different motors for 1 person have been so problematic when this is not a widespread SideWinder specific problem. Sidewinders run hot IMO, yes. My winder runs real hot in marginal conditions, but I have never had to add coolant at any time and I never have had coolant in the oil. I simply have ridden it harder to churn up more dust. I’ve also used my boot to drag snow in to the skid when I’ve lost my scratcher or I cannot dip off trail in deeper snow. My oil level raises and gets frothy too. I just feel like this sled needs scratchers for marginal conditions and/or if running taller lug tracks. I feel like the noseberg also contributes to the problem - Once the nosecone in front of the intercooler fills with snow that becomes a block of ice that restricts under hood air flow enough to make it more susceptible to over heating - that’s my opinion. On a regular trip for me that happens day 1 and I cannot get rid of it until hours of thawing which is often not possible. I have a fully(more comprehensively) Frogskinz covered Cat grille in front for this season. Finally I think using the google bag for storage as I do helps keep the under hood heat from escaping and I probably need to add more venting.

1st motor bad head OK. 2nd motor bad assemble, OK again. 3rd motor same problems seems super improbable, beyond bad luck. I Hope it gets figured out.

 

[NYTurbo]

Now I’m really confused! I got it in the shop it and engine is cold and it sucked two of these tanks dry the last time out on the trail I filled it way up to the top (where my finger is) way above the cold line just so I could make it home without overheating.
View attachment 158775

So I’m assuming the oil tank to be full of coolant because there was no green drops anywhere on the snow. It looks like the oil is in the exact same spot as when I left maybe a little milky but the last time this whole tube was full!
View attachment 158776

I open the radiator cap and a puff of air came out, and the coolant is at the bottom of plastic holding where it supposed to be, just the overflow tank is almost dry. This would tell me it was still just air in the system!! Right?

If so that would make 3/4 gallon I have added since getting it back.

I guess I keep driving it and carry coolant?

Put more i coolant in the overflow bottle, warm it up over 170 f , crack the bolt on the tank over by your turbo to let any air out until coolant runs out, tighten bolt. Let it cool overnight . If bottle is empty repeat or look for leaks.

 

[Tarzan]

M&M Racing in Norway is selling this Radiator Kit for the Sidewinder and Cat. He is just for the moment empty but he have them available next two weeks.

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.https://www.facebook.com/MM-racing-698447116999977
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Selling alot of them in Norway and Sweden.

 

[SidewinderConvert]

M&M Racing in Norway is selling this Radiator Kit for the Sidewinder and Cat. He is just for the moment empty but he have them available next two weeks.

.
.https://www.facebook.com/MM-racing-698447116999977
.
Selling alot of them in Norway and Sweden.View attachment 158783 View attachment 158784

How much are they asking for these? BOP has one in the states but at $600 it is a little much I felt.

 

[STAIN]

Do you know any auto techs with a vacuum cooling refill tool?

They supposed to get rid of air locks in coolant systems. I just use a funnel and keep running and filing it until the coolant circulates but if you can find one of these it may help. I believe they sell them at auto parts stores also.

 

[REDLINE 1]

I had to top off my res bottle a few times when my 2018 Tcat was new. Took a few trips to get all the air out

 

[kinger]

When you were topping your coolant after the first few rides was it because it got hot on you or just checking it over after each ride?

I like the fact that it when cold gave me a puff of air, that means the system was holding pressure.

I have done the 14mm bleed screw many times. It just keeps taking coolant. Does anyone know much it holds? I can't find the capacity in the service manual.

 

[Tarzan]

How much are they asking for these? BOP has one in the states but at $600 it is a little much I felt.

700usd bolt on. Do you know if the one BOP make is with electro thermostat? The fan on M&M Racing is starting at 90 celsius/194f.

 

[Tarzan]

When you were topping your coolant after the first few rides was it because it got hot on you or just checking it over after each ride?

I like the fact that it when cold gave me a puff of air, that means the system was holding pressure.

I have done the 14mm bleed screw many times. It just keeps taking coolant. Does anyone know much it holds? I can't find the capacity in the service manual.

Its a pita to bleed this system. Just keep working with that 14mm bleed screew.Take the front up and push the back down so the cooler is flat.

 

[NYTurbo]

We also push the thermostat open with a screw driver when filling a sled after anti freeze has been dumped. Seems to go a lot easier

 

[STAIN]

I like the fact that it when cold gave me a puff of air, that means the system was holding pressure

good observation. do you have pressure checker?

 

[kinger]

good observation. do you have pressure checker?

I don't but I may buy one. Ulmer wants to put a pressure gauge on the coolant cap and then fill cylinder with 100 psi of air that would be a better test I think. Maybe the head is cracked and under high throttle its drinking coolant rather then putting it in oil. I wouldn't be able to see white smoke then. Then in light loads it seals back up. Just more futzing around with this mystery machine!

 

[Motorhead]

I had years of easy overheating, even with 1 - 2” of fresh snow on top of hard packed groomed trails. Fought with it for years. DID what many said on here, lifting sled nose up 3-4’. Tried everything, over and over, and just kept adding coolant to my reservoir because it would always use a few ounces after every ride, not much but some.

Finally, it now uses none, and I did add some Water Wetter during this process a couple of years ago.

But here is what I noticed once the system started cooling much like my buddies RTX.
NOW when I start mine and let it idle, I can now watch the temp gauge rise to 167- 168, and once the thermostat opens, it will fall to 162 or so, and it takes a while to get back up to 168. It may do this more then once, and it will finally get into the 200’s, but takes much longer now that the system works properly.

It used to just climb past that point before.

Not saying this is your problem at all, just hoping that this may help you quick test in garage.

 

[74Nitro]

I don't but I may buy one. Ulmer wants to put a pressure gauge on the coolant cap and then fill cylinder with 100 psi of air that would be a better test I think. Maybe the head is cracked and under high throttle its drinking coolant rather then putting it in oil. I wouldn't be able to see white smoke then. Then in light loads it seals back up. Just more futzing around with this mystery machine!

Isn't it a brand new crate engine?

 

[kinger]

Isn't it a brand new crate engine?

They don't offer 'crate' engines or long blocks..DUMB! AC does but not Yamaha. AC ones are on perpetual BO with no ETA on availability. So the it was all NEW parts but assembled by hand at the dealer. Even ordered new nuts/washers,etc. They built a 'crate' motor then swapped it in. Nothing borrowed from original. They have lots of 17 winders in their shop and very few 19+ is what they said. I said give me one of those then LOL.