Fleecer
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I believe I'm being haunted by a gremlin and would be interested in hearing input in developing a path forward in hopefully finding a cure. First a little history:
2017 Yamaha Sidewinder RTX SE with 2200 miles, bought brand new last winter, put TD Eco Trail Flash with a SQ muffler. For clutching I ran Dalton QAY-70 weights loaded with the 1 inch allen (4.1 grams) for a total of 74.1 grams. Springs/helix everything else stock except for updated torlon rollers in rear secondary. Sled would spin 9000-9100, once in a while if hot running is soft snow might drop to 8900. Sled ran flawless all winter and was a blast.
This year I loaded TD Max Pump 17 and also a CAI and OSP Racing muffler which is basically the same as a TD Turboforce. Per Ben's instructions I loaded Qay-70s to the hilt at 77.4. Would only spin 8300, so dropped weights a gram to 76.3, would spin 8400, dropped weights another gram to 75.4 and added stiffer secondary spring (TPI orange) and would spin 8700. Bear in mind, I know this thing isn't right so I'm holding it 4-5 seconds and letting go as it doesn't feel right. In my head I'm thinking the sled feels no different than last year and my butt dyno is telling that this thing isn't making the claimed 285 hp as it should.
So this morning I figured I'd go back to basics and eliminate some variables. I set sled up just like I had it last winter, SQ muffler, stock airbox, Dalton weights loaded to 74.1 grams, stock springs and stock helix. Took sled out for some testing and assumed this thing should be banging off the rev limiter!! To my dismay, would only pull 8700 rpm. It's turning 3-400 rpm less than last years Eco trail????? WTF??? I'm making less power???
So......I'm thinking I must have a boost leak. I removed all the panels, checked......double checked... and then triple checked all the hoses, clamps, air box, intercooler, and can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary. I was thinking perhaps the BOV crapped out so I removed it, checked the plunger and all looks legit. I pushed on the spring valve and it needed a very healthy push with my thumb to get it to open.....so I'm thinking this looks to be sufficient also.
I could take it to the dealer, but he'll blame it on the tune. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should go next?
2017 Yamaha Sidewinder RTX SE with 2200 miles, bought brand new last winter, put TD Eco Trail Flash with a SQ muffler. For clutching I ran Dalton QAY-70 weights loaded with the 1 inch allen (4.1 grams) for a total of 74.1 grams. Springs/helix everything else stock except for updated torlon rollers in rear secondary. Sled would spin 9000-9100, once in a while if hot running is soft snow might drop to 8900. Sled ran flawless all winter and was a blast.
This year I loaded TD Max Pump 17 and also a CAI and OSP Racing muffler which is basically the same as a TD Turboforce. Per Ben's instructions I loaded Qay-70s to the hilt at 77.4. Would only spin 8300, so dropped weights a gram to 76.3, would spin 8400, dropped weights another gram to 75.4 and added stiffer secondary spring (TPI orange) and would spin 8700. Bear in mind, I know this thing isn't right so I'm holding it 4-5 seconds and letting go as it doesn't feel right. In my head I'm thinking the sled feels no different than last year and my butt dyno is telling that this thing isn't making the claimed 285 hp as it should.
So this morning I figured I'd go back to basics and eliminate some variables. I set sled up just like I had it last winter, SQ muffler, stock airbox, Dalton weights loaded to 74.1 grams, stock springs and stock helix. Took sled out for some testing and assumed this thing should be banging off the rev limiter!! To my dismay, would only pull 8700 rpm. It's turning 3-400 rpm less than last years Eco trail????? WTF??? I'm making less power???
So......I'm thinking I must have a boost leak. I removed all the panels, checked......double checked... and then triple checked all the hoses, clamps, air box, intercooler, and can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary. I was thinking perhaps the BOV crapped out so I removed it, checked the plunger and all looks legit. I pushed on the spring valve and it needed a very healthy push with my thumb to get it to open.....so I'm thinking this looks to be sufficient also.
I could take it to the dealer, but he'll blame it on the tune. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should go next?
WVTurboLTX
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My guess is the tune as well. Did you talk to Ben? Maybe you have the incorrect version for your setup or there is an update you need?
ROCKERDAN
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Just look at your live data, this is first thing I did was watch my boost to be sure its what it should be.
You are down on power for sure.
Likely that your map never flashed correctly.
That map should be an animal over last seasons eco.
Dan
You are down on power for sure.
Likely that your map never flashed correctly.
That map should be an animal over last seasons eco.
Dan
Fleecer
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"My guess is the tune as well. Did you talk to Ben? Maybe you have the incorrect version for your setup or there is an update you need?"
Well....tried that, but he's a tough guy to get a hold of.
Well....tried that, but he's a tough guy to get a hold of.
See n blue
Expert
I would replace the BOV, even if it's not the culprit the stock one is garbage. Good test is to watch what the boost is doing if you have live data, if not throw a boost gauge on.
DMCTurbo
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do you have the flasher cable?
1100saber
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first thing...do you have a boost gauge? or the flasher so you can see what your boost it at....
It would be my first test to load eco trail back on and check boost psi....then load the 17 and check boost psi. Once you know what those numbers are go from there. IF boost is correct check all the clutch components. Especially primary spring, rollers, secondary rollers, spring. Try swapping the hoses on the BOV to ensure the stock is holding the 17 psi. On maps of 17 psi and higher a Turbosmart BOV is highly recommended...but swapping the hoses can be a quick fix...but don't leave it that way
at 2200 miles unfortunately you could be at the end of life for these crappy stock clutch components
It would be my first test to load eco trail back on and check boost psi....then load the 17 and check boost psi. Once you know what those numbers are go from there. IF boost is correct check all the clutch components. Especially primary spring, rollers, secondary rollers, spring. Try swapping the hoses on the BOV to ensure the stock is holding the 17 psi. On maps of 17 psi and higher a Turbosmart BOV is highly recommended...but swapping the hoses can be a quick fix...but don't leave it that way
at 2200 miles unfortunately you could be at the end of life for these crappy stock clutch components
Fleecer
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Just look at your live data, this is first thing I did was watch my boost to be sure its what it should be.
You are down on power for sure.
Likely that your map never flashed correctly.
That map should be an animal over last seasons eco.
Dan
Thanks for chiming in Dan, but I don't have the data logger, it's Max 17 all the time.
I would replace the BOV, even if it's not the culprit the stock one is garbage. Good test is to watch what the boost is doing if you have live data, if not throw a boost gauge on.
first thing...do you have a boost gauge? or the flasher so you can see what your boost it at....
It would be my first test to load eco trail back on and check boost psi....then load the 17 and check boost psi. Once you know what those numbers are go from there. IF boost is correct check all the clutch components. Especially primary spring, rollers, secondary rollers, spring. Try swapping the hoses on the BOV to ensure the stock is holding the 17 psi. On maps of 17 psi and higher a Turbosmart BOV is highly recommended...but swapping the hoses can be a quick fix...but don't leave it that way
at 2200 miles unfortunately you could be at the end of life for these crappy stock clutch components
No data logger and no boost gauge. Swapping hoses on BOV.....do I simply unhook large hoses, turn BOV and re-attach opposite?? Where should I buy a good BOV and how much are they?
See n blue
Expert
Turbosmart has a direct replacement (34mm). I think reversing the lines is a bandaid and wouldn't recommend it. I'll find you a part #
See n blue
Expert
Kompact Plumb Back-34mm
TS-0203-1223
TS-0203-1223
ROCKERDAN
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While I do think you need the BOV anyway, as I went with one myself....
I dont think that is the issue at all here. I think the tune did not get flashed maybe it did not take ect?
This was the very reason I decided to take the flasher and entire map suite...for the very small cost, I got all the maps AND the ability to see the live data, and record it onto iPhone anytime. Its well worth the cost of the flasher getting all these addtional maps and options IMO.
My OCD also made me be first on the list to get the boost PSI tester from Beerman last fall, and so I have zero leaks and no concerns now.
I know its abit more cost, but I would get the flasher and have all the bells and whistles. No more wondering.
Dan
I dont think that is the issue at all here. I think the tune did not get flashed maybe it did not take ect?
This was the very reason I decided to take the flasher and entire map suite...for the very small cost, I got all the maps AND the ability to see the live data, and record it onto iPhone anytime. Its well worth the cost of the flasher getting all these addtional maps and options IMO.
My OCD also made me be first on the list to get the boost PSI tester from Beerman last fall, and so I have zero leaks and no concerns now.
I know its abit more cost, but I would get the flasher and have all the bells and whistles. No more wondering.
Dan
1100saber
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While I also got the complete package...IMO any turbo sled at a minimum needs a boost gauge. 9/10 times people end of chasing problems and don’t know what they are running for psi without oneWhile I do think you need the BOV anyway, as I went with one myself....
I dont think that is the issue at all here. I think the tune did not get flashed maybe it did not take ect?
This was the very reason I decided to take the flasher and entire map suite...for the very small cost, I got all the maps AND the ability to see the live data, and record it onto iPhone anytime. Its well worth the cost of the flasher getting all these addtional maps and options IMO.
My OCD also made me be first on the list to get the boost PSI tester from Beerman last fall, and so I have zero leaks and no concerns now.
I know its abit more cost, but I would get the flasher and have all the bells and whistles. No more wondering.
Dan
34pontiac
Expert
lakercr
Tech Advisor
A few weeks back Sandale was dynoing the Hurricane 270R and couldn't get a good pull with the stock valve; it was opening at ~15lbs. Put the Turbosmart in and all was good.
Doowithblue
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flame away boys but last year I felt my ecotrail was stronger than this years pt cai. Not sure why. I'm now on Hurricane so never found out why.
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