Michael Reynolds
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 4
- Age
- 29
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2008 yamaha nytro rtx, 136" mod. turbo soon to come
Can anyone on this thread give me the specs of a ac 141 float skid and what kind of relocation you need on the rtx tunnel? I have hartman incs relocation and I'm running a 141 powerclaw already but I want to weight loss of the float skid. Wondering if it would bolt right up in Hartmans relocation
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I just wanted to bump this thread back to the top and thank everyone that contributed. I just read through the entire thing again and it's probably one of the best technical sled threads on the Internet.
I put my new M Series Timbersled suspension together and quickly realized my mounts will need to be modified. Thanks to this thread, I have all the information I need to get the mounts in the right spot.
I put my new M Series Timbersled suspension together and quickly realized my mounts will need to be modified. Thanks to this thread, I have all the information I need to get the mounts in the right spot.
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
So here's what I'm running into with my 153 Timbersled. I also have 17" front shocks. With the Timbersled sitting on the table, the front arm is 11-7/16" to center vertically and rear arm is 12-13/16".
Driveshaft to front arm c to c is 10.5" which is correct. M series is 9.5" and I'm running a 1" setback to use a 156 track.
Top of the tunnel to center of the bottom hole it's bolted into now is 11". I have 2.375" from center of arm to the bottom of the angle. With rear shaft about inline the with upper rear hole, my front hifax still isn't touching the wood (3" thick to simulate track).
So I either heave to drop the front arm or raise the rear even more to get the suspension to sit flat. The rails seem longer than cat with larger rail tips so risk of stabbing appears low if I do drop the front.
Any thoughts?
Edited: So in talking to a few people who have installed Timbersleds, you should have to compress the rear arm a little to get it fit. So it looks my current mounts might be fine.
Driveshaft to front arm c to c is 10.5" which is correct. M series is 9.5" and I'm running a 1" setback to use a 156 track.
Top of the tunnel to center of the bottom hole it's bolted into now is 11". I have 2.375" from center of arm to the bottom of the angle. With rear shaft about inline the with upper rear hole, my front hifax still isn't touching the wood (3" thick to simulate track).
So I either heave to drop the front arm or raise the rear even more to get the suspension to sit flat. The rails seem longer than cat with larger rail tips so risk of stabbing appears low if I do drop the front.
Any thoughts?
Edited: So in talking to a few people who have installed Timbersleds, you should have to compress the rear arm a little to get it fit. So it looks my current mounts might be fine.
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mckinney
Newbie
I just got a barely used cat 153 going to put in my 08 Nytro. The rear shock is a fox air but there needs to be a spacer or bushing at both rear shock mounts. It has the rubber in the shock both ends but pretty sloppy. Do you know what the specs are on this bushing?
Thanks
mckinney
Thanks
mckinney
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
So here's what I'm running into with my 153 Timbersled. I also have 17" front shocks. With the Timbersled sitting on the table, the front arm is 11-7/16" to center vertically and rear arm is 12-13/16".
Driveshaft to front arm c to c is 10.5" which is correct. M series is 9.5" and I'm running a 1" setback to use a 156 track.
Top of the tunnel to center of the bottom hole it's bolted into now is 11". I have 2.375" from center of arm to the bottom of the angle. With rear shaft about inline the with upper rear hole, my front hifax still isn't touching the wood (3" thick to simulate track).
Nikolai....
Well that's too funny:
On my timbersled 153....powerclaw 153..
Driveshaft to front arm c to c is 10.5". I'm 10.5 because I use 7 tooth drivers whereas cat (and u) use 8, so I needed a bit more setback to make the skid fit the "hyfax to driver" line. I could move have easily gone to 9.5 but would have to lower back mounts which loads up the skis more.
Top of my tunnel to center of the bottom hole (the one I'm using) is 11"
I did a quick check against a stock cat tunnel mounts with their 8 tooth setup and when switching to 7 tooth drivers, you have to move the front arm bolt a 1/2" higher and 1-3/8" back to accommodate. I couldn't go to 1-3/8" because I'd run out of axle adjustment in the rear, thus the 1" I used. The good news is I can run a 156 track!!! Thanks for reminding me!!
On your setup..I'd say your your darn close to perfect. I'd honestly prefer a slight uphill on the skid towards the rear axle (Either a bit lower front mount or slightly higher back mount). This setup adds a bit more pressure to the front of the skid which should help with handling and take weight off the skis....not that you have much weight to worry about LOL. I wouldn't be worried about stab because it will only be a slight change and the rail caps are big, heavy duty and not near the line of the track.
The one thing I've noticed with this setup is how it keeps the front end down and keeps the sled on top of the snow...although with the HP ur carrying I'm not sure the skis will ever see the snow. LOL!!! I am constantly reminded of that every time I get on my 154 summit (trenching monster) and get back on the Nytro...night and day difference... and when you put them side by side, it's not hard to see why.
OTM
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Appreciate the info Mike.
I don't know the specs but you should be able to order them from cat. Looking at the microfiche for a 2010 M8 it appears you're after the sleeve(22 on the diagram), part#1604-139, $2.95 ea.
I just got a barely used cat 153 going to put in my 08 Nytro. The rear shock is a fox air but there needs to be a spacer or bushing at both rear shock mounts. It has the rubber in the shock both ends but pretty sloppy. Do you know what the specs are on this bushing?
Thanks
mckinney
I don't know the specs but you should be able to order them from cat. Looking at the microfiche for a 2010 M8 it appears you're after the sleeve(22 on the diagram), part#1604-139, $2.95 ea.
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mckinney
Newbie
Thanks got the part ordered last saturday and went to pick it up friday and they couldnt find my order. They reordered and rushing it. Thanks
Hope cat guys dont have issues getting parts lime I am.
Hope cat guys dont have issues getting parts lime I am.
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Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Hey McKinney
Seeing Nikolai's parts list, I remember most of us that did the conversion had bending issues with the front skid shock lower cross shaft (the one that goes between the rails. Some of the M's came with an aluminum cross shaft which bent easily on hard hits. I had an aluminum one and bent it....changed to the steel shaft and never had an issue since.
I can't remember which Cat model had the steel cross shaft. I tried looking at cat parts and can't even find the part???? but maybe others will chime in. Just confirm which shaft you have and if you plan to keep the aluminum one......keep the jumps to a minimum....
OTM
Seeing Nikolai's parts list, I remember most of us that did the conversion had bending issues with the front skid shock lower cross shaft (the one that goes between the rails. Some of the M's came with an aluminum cross shaft which bent easily on hard hits. I had an aluminum one and bent it....changed to the steel shaft and never had an issue since.
I can't remember which Cat model had the steel cross shaft. I tried looking at cat parts and can't even find the part???? but maybe others will chime in. Just confirm which shaft you have and if you plan to keep the aluminum one......keep the jumps to a minimum....
OTM
le700
Expert
The skid is in. M1000 skid in an apex mountain.
Is it normal for it to sag like this when it is just sitting there?
What pressures can be had in the float? It is at 145 psi now, which is at the top of the pump meter..
mckinney
Newbie
Thanks OTM I will check if its aluminum or steel this week. When sizing up the new rear do I need to do anything with the limiter strap? Is that not an issue when initially setting it up?
mckinney
mckinney
Marc Augustine
Veteran
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2018
- Messages
- 27
- Age
- 76
- Location
- Montana
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2009 Yamaha fx Nytro mtx,
Hey Guys, basically a newbe, had a conversation elsewhere and thought I would post here to see if anyone has some input. I'm in the process of putting a 2013 AC XF1100 153 skid in my 09 nytro mtx, rear front shock, Zero Pro 2704-172, 11.76", Hygear 200 lb. spring, rear center shock, Zero Pro 2704-024, 16.01", Hygear 200 lb. spring, anti-stab and Avid extrovert drivers. Was wondering if the mounting locations from earlier in this thread posted by Off Trail Mike are still the preferred ones, 1.33" forward and 1.40" up from stock mtx skid mount holes. Any and all inputs would be greatly appreciated...
There have been some new updates to cat skids over the years. Do any of you gurus have comments on putting 2018 cat skids into nytros?
the more I look into this, the more I think it's not feasable with a MCX rear turbo. I've got the MCX mounting bracket at 5" below the tunnel top, and the under tunnel muffler is 6" below tunnel top. From all the discussions here on the cat skid, is that its that there isn't enough clearance to mount the turbo under there. Is there something I'm missing on this?
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