Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
First of all, I think the chance of failure is only 3-4%
And if you have read the reports, the gasket appears to push out and the loss of oil causes the chaincase failure. These chaincases do run very hot.
The heat may cause the lube to expand or it makes the thick rubber gasket softer or both. Plus the face of the cover is very smooth and the gasket is rounded where it meets the cover
Been thinking about a "no worry" fix.
On motorcycles, cars, particularly racing ones
you Permatex or RTV everything together.
The chaincase gasket is designed so that that is not required,
but bet if you Permatexed one side, that would be the end to the oil loss problems.
Semi-supporting evidence from YammiMoose's thread "My chaincase story"
And if you have read the reports, the gasket appears to push out and the loss of oil causes the chaincase failure. These chaincases do run very hot.
The heat may cause the lube to expand or it makes the thick rubber gasket softer or both. Plus the face of the cover is very smooth and the gasket is rounded where it meets the cover
Been thinking about a "no worry" fix.
On motorcycles, cars, particularly racing ones
you Permatex or RTV everything together.
The chaincase gasket is designed so that that is not required,
but bet if you Permatexed one side, that would be the end to the oil loss problems.
Semi-supporting evidence from YammiMoose's thread "My chaincase story"
[/i]
Sidewinder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Better yet if you use the silicone called "The right Stuff" you will have 0 leaks and if you have to take it apart you will have to pry it apart.
I use it on all the race engines I build for the front and rear intake gaskets and have ever had any probs.
I used to use cheaper RTV silicone and still had some leaks.
Hell once I used this to fix a guys leaky oil pan as he didnt clearance the pan for the oil pump and put a crack in the pan.
Drained the pan used brake clean to clean the outside f the pan and used my finger to seal it up for him.
Told him it would hold for the weekend so he could have his car.
That was 4 years ago and I bet you he still hasnt pulled the pan and its not leaking still t this date.
I know because he was in yesterday and there was no spot where he parked his car.
Scott
I use it on all the race engines I build for the front and rear intake gaskets and have ever had any probs.
I used to use cheaper RTV silicone and still had some leaks.
Hell once I used this to fix a guys leaky oil pan as he didnt clearance the pan for the oil pump and put a crack in the pan.
Drained the pan used brake clean to clean the outside f the pan and used my finger to seal it up for him.
Told him it would hold for the weekend so he could have his car.
That was 4 years ago and I bet you he still hasnt pulled the pan and its not leaking still t this date.
I know because he was in yesterday and there was no spot where he parked his car.
Scott
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks Scott.
Thinking that it only needs to be done on one side.
Not the housing side. Where it is most likely to "roll" and leak is the face at the cover where it is rounded.
This is the product I plan on using so far.
Permatex® High Tack™ Gasket Sealant
Fast-drying all-purpose sealant dries to a highly tacky, non-brittle film. A reliable general adhesive. Remains effective under temperatures of -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C). Resists gasoline, oil, antifreeze, axle lube, kerosene, propane and butane. Level 3*
Suggested Applications: Valve covers, fuel pumps, carburetors, manifold gaskets
Thinking that it only needs to be done on one side.
Not the housing side. Where it is most likely to "roll" and leak is the face at the cover where it is rounded.
This is the product I plan on using so far.
Permatex® High Tack™ Gasket Sealant
Fast-drying all-purpose sealant dries to a highly tacky, non-brittle film. A reliable general adhesive. Remains effective under temperatures of -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C). Resists gasoline, oil, antifreeze, axle lube, kerosene, propane and butane. Level 3*
Suggested Applications: Valve covers, fuel pumps, carburetors, manifold gaskets
Attachments
hondo
VIP Member
Permatex works real well. Value added to the gasket seal.
In addition:
Ensure the dipstick cap is venting properly and use full synthetic chain-case oil. Doing both will also add to ones comfort level.
In addition:
Ensure the dipstick cap is venting properly and use full synthetic chain-case oil. Doing both will also add to ones comfort level.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
Apexaholic said:
I agree 100%... we use THE RIGHT STUFF at our work and it is great stuff... 0 comebacks..
it dries and never lets go..
Mighty
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Excellent R&D for Yamaha there Tork............................
TT670
Expert
I was thinking the same thing Tork but as a mechanic for 20+ yrs Ive had horrible luck with high tack, I gave up on it years ago. Personally I think some 3M spray adhesive or a tube of weatherstrip adhesive would be better way of securing the gasket, high tack is really only good enough to hold a gasket in place for ease of assembly.
jds1000
Expert
I think a tube of high temp silicone will get the job done. The auto industry uses silicone for everything and it works very well.
