The Legend UPBushman

[Lebulkhead]

i just bought my first 4 stroke sled. A '11 Phazer mtx. 3850 mi. When I bought the sled I knew I had to do something about the steering. The solution seems simple (well not so simple). UPBushmans arm pivot bushing and washer kit. Is his kit still available? I see the Schmidt bros. offer a shim kit. A couple of washers for 16 dollars.
It all started wanting to check the spark plugs. It just snowballed from there. As far as the plugs, they were black all the way up to the last 4 threads. Both plugs were gapped at .033" . I'm guessing that might be the reason it is running so rich. I haven't looked at the Pistons yet, I'm sure they are just as black.

Anyway. I could put dually carbides on to cure the darting. It would still be a white knuckled ride over 35 mph.
Here I am my first post and I am asking for favors. Any help would be awesome.

 

[maim]

for the skis try adding a 1/4" shim under the rear of the ski rubber. that is how i run all my mtx skis on all my sleds and it does really help with the darting. don't run dullys so i cannot advise you there.

guess i should check mine then as i have the entire front off doing a stator on my rtx/x.

as to the black pugs, i would not worry yet. they will run ritch until it hits around 0 degrees c (sry not good with ferinheight) as the ecu runs with the stock fuel map for around -20 deg c all year round, so it will appear ritch in the summer. just make sure that you run it up to operating temp every time you start it and it should be fine as this stops it fouling plugs.

 

[Lebulkhead]

That shim is a good idea. I used to turn the ski rubber around on my Polaris sleds. Still do for that matter. I'm anxious to ride it. Warming the sled longer will be different? I ride with Polaris and cat guys. They don't have to warm up as long. They're an antsy bunch too. Thanks for the tips. I have a lot to learn about these Yamahas. It's kind of ironic. I do own '98 Yamaha 4 hp kicker motor for my Lund. The last year of Yamaha 2 strokes. The 4 horse any way

 

[thor452]

You don't have to warm up the sled real long when you are going to ride it just until the cold light goes off. he is referring to starting the sled in the off season. never start it up and shut it right back down always let the motor get up to full operating temp before shutting it off this will prevent plugs from fouling.

 

[Lebulkhead]

You don't have to warm up the sled real long when you are going to ride it just until the cold light goes off. he is referring to starting the sled in the off season. never start it up and shut it right back down always let the motor get up to full operating temp before shutting it off this will prevent plugs from fouling.

 

[Lebulkhead]

You don't have to warm up the sled real long when you are going to ride it just until the cold light goes off. he is referring to starting the sled in the off season. never start it up and shut it right back down always let the motor get up to full operating temp before shutting it off this will prevent plugs from fouling.

Got it Another ? There is (the schematic calls it a oil plug) on top of the valve Cover? It looks like an inspection hole to me. I'm stumped....

 

[thor452]

could you clarify your question please. I don't understand what you are asking.

 

[maim]

when changing the oil, the one on the valve cover you add to when you drain the crank case on the engine or on a full rebuild. usually add all oil to the tank on a normal oil change.

sry i meant what thor452 said about off season running.

 

[Gone Blue]

Welcome to TY and Phazer land! Activity on the site is slow in the summer but it will pick up. As far as I know UP Bushman is still around selling his parts. He is not currently riding a Yamaha since his Phazer blew up but I think he is still making his steering bushing kit and spindle bushing kit. I purchased a spindle kit for my project Nytro last year from him and ran one on my custom Phazer. He makes some sweet stuff so I hope he is still around. Send him a note if you havent already and I would hope he responds in a week or so. I will look to see if I still have his email which he might respond faster too.

Also FYI. I was running shimmed C&A Razors on my Phazer with dually carbides and it very minimal darting and cornered like it was on rails. G.B.

 

[Lebulkhead]

when changing the oil, the one on the valve cover you add to when you drain the crank case on the engine or on a full rebuild. usually add all oil to the tank on a normal oil change.

sry i meant what thor452 said about off season running.

Welcome to TY and Phazer land! Activity on the site is slow in the summer but it will pick up. As far as I know UP Bushman is still around selling his parts. He is not currently riding a Yamaha since his Phazer blew up but I think he is still making his steering bushing kit and spindle bushing kit. I purchased a spindle kit for my project Nytro last year from him and ran one on my custom Phazer. He makes some sweet stuff so I hope he is still around. Send him a note if you havent already and I would hope he responds in a week or so. I will look to see if I still have his email which he might respond faster too.

Also FYI. I was running shimmed C&A Razors on my Phazer with dually carbides and it very minimal darting and cornered like it was on rails. G.B.

Maim, I have taken off enough body parts, I might as well change the oil while the oil filter is exposed. So I drain the oil tank and change the filter, how much oil will it take to fill to capacity?

That steering bushing kit is just what the doctor ordered ! The spindle seem to be ok. There is maybe a 1/4 inch of play front to back with the ski dangling. That I think is ok I think. I will keep an I on that.

How much is the oil filter anyway? Like it matters.. They have you by the short hairs on this one ; )

This is a great website. Thanks for the the help guys & gals. I really appreciate it.
.

 

[Lebulkhead]

Does anyone know the size of the oil filter off of '11 mtx. . It looks like a cap wrench might work best

 

[maim]

sounds like you need to check if the plastic washers are still in to stop the a-arm front to back movement. mine with 10000mi + on it moves less than 1/16".

i just use a filter strap on mine as i have the front clip off every time i replace it. according to the service manual it holds 3 l from right dry (fresh rebuild), 2.45 l without filter change and 2.63 l with a filter change. if you drained the bottom of the engine, you need to add 1 l to the engine as it says to put 1.5l in the tank and check level.

 

[Lebulkhead]

I have asked too many questions, and have only managed to confuse myself. The plastic washers you are talking about are the ones on the upper and lower a arms ? Not the pivot arm assembly that rattles all over the place.

Is it easier to pull the front clip? I still have to drill the rivets (all 2 of them) off the remaining shroud to have better access to the oil filter as well as the pivot arm and arm pivot assembly. I have been holding off on that until I find the parts. I had no idea how complicated it would be to work on the steering linkage.

A shop manual would be nice. Though the diagrams TY offers is slick. It's just I have always struggled with blueprints.

Thanks again!

 

[maim]

Post up a video of the movement

 

[Lebulkhead]

Maim, I took the videos. I couldn't figure out how to post them. So getting upset with myself I went to Schmidts website again. I must have been looking at the wrong sled ( a previous post I stated that Schmidts had just a two shim kit.) And one might wonder why I couldn't post those videos. So I bought their Sloppy steering kit. A 10 washers 2 bushing kit. And a Safer Outer Tie rod bolt kit. I am pretty sure it is double the price of UPBushmans kit. Seeing that sled on the trailer nearly naked was driving me crazy! So I anted up and for now I am at peace with myself...
I want to thank all that reached out to help the newbie. This is a awesome web site.