Those friggin' donuts!

[ZitRemedy]

Hi Folks,

Just getting the 06 Attak ready for the season. I decided to pull it apart and look at the donuts/gaskets to make sure everything was ok. From what I can tell they are ok. The clamps are not loose and won't budge and I don't seem to have any exhaust leaks. One thing I did notice was the clamps are turned in all sorts of different directions. I'm wondering if this was the way they were installed or are they getting loose when warmed up? See pic.

Since I'm at this point now I'm thinking about replacing them so I won't have to worry...just a bit hesitant as I don;t have proper torque wrenches etc.

 

[TBay Sledhead]

Yes if they are oriented that way then they are getting slightly loose when warm and seeing as you are that far replace them. Replace with copper, much more durable. When you replace take a few thou off the stops on the clamps so that they will tighten slightly more. I don't remember what the torque is but I never used a torque wrench when I did mine years ago and are still holding. Probably going to have to heat those up to turn them for removal if they are that tight when cold.

 

[Winderallday!]

Agreed with TBay, likely moving when hot which means the donuts are deteriorating. If they never have been replaced, they have done very well. If the stops on the clamps have never been shortened, that would be helpful if you are putting the OEM donuts back in, I generally took about 1.0-1.5 mm off them with a grinder. With copper donuts, it may not be necessary to alter the clamp stops. As far as torque goes, since you are bottoming out the clamp halves on the stop with the Allen bolt , there really isn't a need for a specific torque, just tighten them man-tight.
Cheers.

 

[ZitRemedy]

Thanks. I'm this far into it...may as well replace them. I've chatted with Travis from Barn of Parts who provided a great price...I assume the donuts from here have a good rep? I'm currently at 4800kms so around the time they should be replaced.

 

[CaptCaper]

I always use heat on those clamp nuts as well as the Ypipe allen button head bolts and the bolts that hold the ypipes to the muffler pipe. Good chance one or more may break,strip,etc. I use the Home Depot Mapp Gas/O2 combo for around $70.. saved my butt plenty of time.

 

[Winderallday!]

Thanks. I'm this far into it...may as well replace them. I've chatted with Travis from Barn of Parts who provided a great price...I assume the donuts from here have a good rep? I'm currently at 4800kms so around the time they should be replaced.

Some donuts around are copycats made offshore, so no guarantees about the quality of the copper and/or copper alloy, along with dimensional accuracy.
I would trust Travis' stuff 100%, as I would Ulmer's, since they would hear about it from the loyal TY'ers on here if it was not top quality.

 

[Pete_man26]

Make sure to use some high heat never seize on the bolts when putting it back together. I did this to mine and whenever I've had to go back and loosen, never had a problem.

 

[HABS 1]

yes those donuts!i put copper in mine with new clamps, shavin a few thousand off as metioned,worked well until headers cracked and got very thin and leaked where pushes into muffler, basically the best fix for me was to replace complete exhaust system, since i put on excell headers and muffler with copper donuts and new clamps , zero problems! it is costly but worth it, it gets old quick constantly screwin with that exhaust system!

 

[ZitRemedy]

I've run into the dreaded stripped allen bolts outlines in ROCKERDAN's post, step 15. The slot is completely rounded out so previous owner or another mechanic must have been in there at some point. As suggested by other members can I heat these up, jam a torx into the head and try and back off and replace? I don't want to drill out and retap due to lack of experience.

Also the instructions call to just back these off to loosen the pipes. Is it ok to remove completely? Sorry for all the questions as I know this is a frequent topic...I'm determined to get this done. Donuts should be here this week so hopefully getting it buttoned up shortly.

Thanks to everyone yet again.

 

[CaptCaper]

Yes remove the bolts.. Replace with grade 8 hardware from a good hardware store. I used deeper headed allen heads but a good grade 8 6 p0int would do the trick.. Better heat them up cherry red as well. I use the Home Depot O2/Mapp gas combo torch.. much hotter flame then the propane ones. All of the 4 Yamaha exhaust donut replacements I've done needed heat.. and with that the bolts came right out.. with some squeaking sounds ..
The Flex pipe bolts that go into the head are fine. No heat needed or replaceing.. use a swivel 3/8 behind the socket to get at them.

 

[ZitRemedy]

Yes remove the bolts.. Replace with grade 8 hardware from a good hardware store. I used deeper headed allen heads but a good grade 8 6 p0int would do the trick.. Better heat them up cherry red as well. I use the Home Depot O2/Mapp gas combo torch.. much hotter flame then the propane ones. All of the 4 Yamaha exhaust donut replacements I've done needed heat.. and with that the bolts came right out.. with some squeaking sounds ..
The Flex pipe bolts that go into the head are fine. No heat needed or replaceing.. use a swivel 3/8 behind the socket to get at them.

Yes I will be removing them with heat and tapping a slightly bigger torx head. Is it ok to remove the bolts under the rubber grommets completely to loosen exhaust?

 

[CaptCaper]

For sure

 

[ZitRemedy]

Yes remove the bolts.. Replace with grade 8 hardware from a good hardware store. I used deeper headed allen heads but a good grade 8 6 p0int would do the trick.. Better heat them up cherry red as well. I use the Home Depot O2/Mapp gas combo torch.. much hotter flame then the propane ones. All of the 4 Yamaha exhaust donut replacements I've done needed heat.. and with that the bolts came right out.. with some squeaking sounds ..
The Flex pipe bolts that go into the head are fine. No heat needed or replaceing.. use a swivel 3/8 behind the socket to get at them.

OK, bit of a pickle. The flex pipe bolts won't budge. I used a swivel to get at them and can't get them to break...I'm afraid of snapping a head off. Should I apply heat and retry?

I managed to get two clamps off but the bolts on the other two seemed stripped and I can't get them to back off. I might be able to get a set of vise grips on them to loosen. Not sure if I can get replacement screws or I might have to buy the whole bracket.

I'm still deciding on what to do with the two stripped allen bolts near the top of the ypipe. I have an easy out set so might try that. This is starting to become a beast...what shoul dbe a few hours turns into days with rusted/stripped/seized bolts and screws.

 

[steveg_nh]

Did you soak all bolts with PB blaster before attempting to remove them?

You can buy just the replacement Allen bolts. I did. I would replace them every time just for this reason.

Can you cut the heads off the broken ones carefully with a dremel tool? They really should not be so tight that if soaked with PB blaster they won’t come off with vice grips. I would think at least. I was lucky all mine came off easy.

Another idea - could you use a properly sized drill bit to drill off the head just enough thy it pops off. Kind of like drilling out a rivet. I can measure the diameter of the bolts if you want. I have some spares I believe.

 

[gitrdun]

steveg is righton with the penetrating oil. I let it sit overnight before I even attempted removing. If you are having trouble with the flex pipes, I personally left mine alone assuming that they were fine. On the clamp bolts, after soaking overnight, and after rotating the clamp so you can work on it, I heated the nut with an ordinary small propane torch for 25 seconds, put a 10mm open end on the nut and a #5 Allen head socket with a 3/8 ratchet on the bolt. Mine had 8000 km on it and it came off no problem. On the two Y pipe bolts, the penetrating oil will follow the threads down no problem, mine were soaked after letting them sit overnight. Mine actually came out easily without heat, so it may not take a lot to get them turning. Pretty sure that was a #5 Allen socket also.