Those two 5mm bolts that hold the Y pipes.

[Capt.Storm]

What a pain.

Mine striped out... as a lot of them will if never been out.

If you are replacing Y pipes the track has to be lowered anyhow.
Heat up the nut at the other end of the 5mm bolt before you even think about trying to loosen them..trust me on this...I didn't.
I bet a mapp gas torch would work.

If you still mess the heads up you might be able to weld a bolt to the allen head bolt.
I didn't think of trying that at the time either.

It will do you no good to drll the head of te bolt off..the bolt goes to a nut in the bottom of the bracket..you would have to drill all that out also and re-tap.

What I did was drill out all the rivets out of the bracket that hold it to the tunnel thinking I could take the whole thing out the bottom..it will not work.
I ended up taking a sawzall and cut the pipes off near the bracket from underneath..what a pain..don't do that!

But I did get it out that way then cut the rest of the pipe left from the bracket so I could turn what was left of the bolts out with vice grips.

I can't stress enough to heat those nuts from under the tunnel before you try to take them out.

To tell you the truth..if I was just doing doughnuts I would probably just try to loosen the motor and rock it forward.
But I had to replace both y pipes.

I hope this helps someone..cause it can be a nightmare.
I think I might bolt my bracket back in instead of rivets..not sure yet.

 

[blue rtx]

X2 I ended up torching the heads off from the top and drilling the rivets out for the bracket to get the Y-pipes out. Once everything was removed I realized heating from the bottom probably would have worked.

 

[Rich Kay]

When ya put the new ones in 'anti-seize" the poop out of them. OH! buy the way it'sthe gold stuff from Permatex ... It takes the heat.

 

[Honk]

The permatex burns off and can't see any remnants of it at change time, not sure its doing anything.

 

[the kitchen]

There are tools to get this done quicker and less painful. I used heat and an impact socket, grip it tite and smack it with a haammer and presto the bolt comes loose. I stripped out two allen wrenches before getting this tool. I will never go without one of these again.

 

[blue er]

There are tools to get this done quicker and less painful. I used heat and an impact socket, grip it tite and smack it with a haammer and presto the bolt comes loose. I stripped out two allen wrenches before getting this tool. I will never go without one of these again.

x2 impact driver saved me as well

 

[scott32]

Good penetrating oil and a two day soak. T-wrench and out they came. Worked for me!

 

[raginyamaha]

i replaced with stainless hardware and used clip nuts on the braket. Had to drill them completely off, suked balls

 

[actionjack]

Mine stripped as well. I was able to drill the head off of the chaincase side pipe and that freed the pipe. I extinguished every bit I had trying to drill out the clutch side but couldn't get it. With the one pipe free I was able to maneuver the bracket and pipe out from the tunnel and protectors. Once out I was finally able to grind the head off of the clutchside bolt and get both out using penetrating oil, heat and vise grips. I reinstalled the the bracket with SS bolts and used SS hex head bolts on the Y-pipe bracket instead of the new allen cap screws I had.

Does a cordless DeWalt drill type impact work for an application like this? Or is air driven a must?

 

[smalltownpower]

a hand opperated impact. you apply twist and alot of downward pressure with one hand, and a strong blow with a 5 pound hammer. once their broke free a t handle takes them out. when i did donuts on the vectors i didnt feel like driving to the farm to get the hand impact, so i took a center punch and gave them a few very good blows with my lil sledge hammer, and then a minute on each head for about a minute with mapp gas torch. they came out with a old style "L" shape allen wrench. i even tapped that with a hammer. did 2 vectors without stripping them out!

 

[Yami_Nut]

I'm up to now doing two sleds (the second is apart), I highly recommend just drilling out the 8 rivits that hold the bracket on and taking out four large the bolts that hold the mufller on at the back of the sled. This allows you to slide the whole assembly back 3-4 inches to replace the donuts. In a matter of 10 minutes with a new drill bit, I had both slid back and ready for new donuts. No messing around with the two siezed bolts on the bracket.

 

[actionjack]

I'm up to now doing two sleds (the second is apart), I highly recommend just drilling out the 8 rivits that hold the bracket on and taking out four large the bolts that hold the mufller on at the back of the sled. This allows you to slide the whole assembly back 3-4 inches to replace the donuts. In a matter of 10 minutes with a new drill bit, I had both slid back and ready for new donuts. No messing around with the two siezed bolts on the bracket.

Thats GREAT....unless your Y-pipe is damaged.

 

[Honk]

Make sure when drilling out the bracket to replace with steel rivets, not alum. No need to undo if you can get the bolt out, but when ya do just change to a new head style. 12mm I think, then ya don't worry about strippin it out next time.

 

[machzrobbie]

Here's a little trick if you strip the heads of your bolts. Take a torqx socket just a hair bigger then the allan wrench and hammer it in the bolt. It will grab alot better then the allan wrench.

 

[BIG BLACK WARRIOR]

I think the best thing to do after you buy a new sled is take those two bolts out when the sled is new, and replace them with two new bolts with a different type of head, and put never seize on them. After I had this problem with a 2004 Warrior, I have put different bolts in when the sled is new( 2005 RX-1, 2007 Rage GT, 2007 Apex GT, 2011 Apex ER), and have never had this problem of getting the bolts out again. Everyone likes to tinker with there new sleds, so that is the time to do it.