Too low high rpm

ZOLLMAN

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2013 Yamaha Nytro XTX 1.75
I have a 2013 nytro xtx 1.75 i just bought brand new from nelsons in Michigan. I live in the northern lower. Was out for a ride today and have almost 200 miles on it and wanted to finally see how fast i can go and how high i can get the rpm to go. 70 mph is all it will do and only revs to 7800 on hard packed.

Throttle cable is pulling the throttle bodies all the way open. Not sure whats going on? Any help is appreciated.
 
They are VERY tight when new. And they don't break in significantly till well over 1000 miles either.
The speed and rp you are saying is too low for even breakin tho IMO.
Is it the 1.75 lug version o 1.25?
What conditions was this in?

Things to check:
Track too tight or badly misaligned?
Take the belt off and wash it in really hot saopy water.
Scuff the clutch sheaves with 3m or some very light sandpaper.
Only use 87 fuel. It will run slower with high octane.

The parking brake is off right??

My 2013 was tight when new. Would only pull 8700~8800 and run low 90's for speed.
The track was banjo tight from dealer pdi

Break it in hard...and change the oil early. My first oil change at 500 miles had a slly amount of metal in it.
I changed the filter then too...and changed the oil again at 1000 miles..stick with petroleum oil for the first two changes to get better ring seal and then switch to synttic (if thats yer thing).
 
Haha. Yes parking brake is off. Thats the first thing i checked. It is the 1.75 lug. The track has a 2" sag with 22 pounds of pull on it. Its aligned in the middle. Only running 87 octane. No gear changes. Did what you said and cleaned the belt and clutches. Didnt make a difference.

Weather here in michigan is like 20°f just got a bunch of snow. No matter if im on a hard packed rail road grade or in powder it only revs to 7800. I was holding it wide open on hard packed rail road grade for probably 10 seconds and top speed was only 69.

Honestly dont care about the speed. Just want full h.p. and full revs off trail. I have done a bunch of searching on this but no real answers. Someone was saying to lighten the weights in the primary so it can rev up higher? Never seen if that guy did that and worked. What do you guys think?
 
Check your clutch alignment and belt deflection. Give this engine some time to break in. It is an incredible beast.

Pete
 

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Something's not right to be shifting out to 7800 regardless of top speed.

I assume you bought this new?
Might be time for the dealer to verify a few things like TPS setting and run the computer for codes etc.
Even unbroken in it should be revving higher than 7800.

It is poss to have a broken primary spring, not likely but possible. Secondary not installed properly as in the spring wrap?

I'd have them have a look cuz something isn't right on a brand new sled.
 
Yes. I bought it brand new. Has 200 miles on it now. Im going to check a couple more things and the belt alignment then take it in. Thanks for your guys help
 
I also bought mine brand new and definitely saw a lot more out of it then you are.... It does come alive after 1000 ish miles but as suggested I would take her in and get the dealer to give it another look as something is definitely not right
 
Well the problem was my exhaust. I made my own with a supertrapp muffler. Didnt think that was my problem bc i seen other people do straight pipe and other custom stuff. It wasnt getting enough fuel all throughout the power band especially on top end. It was starving so bad it would only get to 7800. I pulled the plugs and they were brand new white. No color at all. Put stock muffler on and now this thing rips! Its and absolute animal.

So now i have a question. I want to ise my supertrapp muffler. It sounds so awesome. Do you think a PCV will make it get enough fuel? Can i manually change the mapping from my laptop? Or is it so complicated that it has to be preset by ulmer or someone? But they dont know what needs to be tuned where. Do you plug the commander into the sled and run it then hook it up to a laptop to see what needs to be changed and where? Really dont want to spend another $300 for the auto tune ontop of the $360 for the PCV
 
You really need to find a MAP, but sounds like that can shouldn't be on it. You can add fuel to the cells but you really need a Dyno to do it properly. Look at it this way, you can either spend the money on a auto tune or buy a different can.
 
You're right with either the muffler or auto tune. So with the auto tune you weld in the o2 sensor bung plug everything in and ride? No laptop or mapping involved? Would the auto tune fix this problem and can run this muffler?
 


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