• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

TPS issues...

1CrazySledder

Lifetime Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2005
Messages
2,006
Location
Cartersville, GA.
Country
USA
Snowmobile
None, looking now!
As this being my first boosted sled, I'm sort of at a loss here.

Let's see if I can explain this right..lol

I can't seem to get better than 7mpg from my stage 1. When I first start the sled, I get both the codes for T.O.R.S. and the TPS. (15 & 84) I did the TPS check from the gauge pod and the throttle and I'm reading 15 closed and 69 wide open. A bit out of spec, I know. Would this make the T.O.R.S. act up and tell the computer to keep dumping fuel resulting in my bad fuel milage? My throttle cable is a bit tight as I have a 2.5" rise over stock, would that play a part also? This is with the controller unplugged. I do have a new TPS ordered and on the way.

With the controller plugged in, the sled wants to pop a bit at idle. Seems like to run like crap. I did get the controller a bit wet, but I called and talked to Steve at MPI, he tells me as long as the lights are working, the controller should be working correctly. I used Allen's setting as a base line and added .5 to each setting as I was thinking to run a bit rich due to Haucks headers and pipe I'm running.

Plugs are good. A/f at idle is 16 cold. Once warm the a/f comes down to about 12:1

I tried to search, but can't find quite my situation.

Thanks for any help...

-1CS
 

I have not had success with boost without disabling the TORS yet. Superchargers seem to get worse mileage. I would get a bypass valve from Ted. Your poor running could be due to the pipe, I don't know. Don't have poor running with stock pipes. I have heard of bad controllers that appear to be functioning properly. You will need to change some things out to satisfy your condition. I bet Hammer will help you out. He has a ton of supercharger experience.
 
KnappAttack said:
I have not had success with boost without disabling the TORS yet. Superchargers seem to get worse mileage. I would get a bypass valve from Ted. Your poor running could be due to the pipe, I don't know. Don't have poor running with stock pipes. I have heard of bad controllers that appear to be functioning properly. You will need to change some things out to satisfy your condition. I bet Hammer will help you out. He has a ton of supercharger experience.

Thanks for the reply Mike.

I have a blow off valve installed and opening around 4". I'll keep messing around some more. Maybe it is the controller? After I get my new TPS installed and set, we'll see if that was the issue. I'm also about to take my bars off of the risers to relieve some tension from the throttle cable to see if that helps. I have heard of the cable being to tight and setting off the T.O.R.S. after extending the cable....problem went away.


-1CS
 
The TPS with the MPI box plugged in will not read correctly doing the test. You have to unhook the MPI box then perform the TPS test.

Unplug the TORS it will get you sooner or later on the apex anything above 5 psi sets it off when you slam the throttle shut.
 
TurboJamie said:
The TPS with the MPI box plugged in will not read correctly doing the test. You have to unhook the MPI box then perform the TPS test.

Unplug the TORS it will get you sooner or later on the apex anything above 5 psi sets it off when you slam the throttle shut.

Jamie,
Yeah, that I know. I did do a ohm test and I'm reading 7.4. on the blue and Black/blue terminals of the TPS itself. I'm out of specs. It's suppose to be 3.5 to something like 6? Not 7.4, that I know.

Where and what kind of tool do I need to adjust the angle when I install the new one? It needs to be at something like 125*, and I have no idea how to check that with out the proper tool.

I did disconnect the T.O.R.S. today. It has gotten me many times already, like you said. It even stalled the motor once and made me over shoot a corner. luckily, there was a run off there. lol I let off the throttle at the last minute thinking I'd use the engine brake to make the corner, and she stalled. Freeked me out a little for a second. lol
 
1CrazySledder said:
TurboJamie said:
The TPS with the MPI box plugged in will not read correctly doing the test. You have to unhook the MPI box then perform the TPS test.

Unplug the TORS it will get you sooner or later on the apex anything above 5 psi sets it off when you slam the throttle shut.

Jamie,
Yeah, that I know. I did do a ohm test and I'm reading 7.4. on the blue and Black/blue terminals of the TPS itself. I'm out of specs. It's suppose to be 3.5 to something like 6? Not 7.4, that I know.

Where and what kind of tool do I need to adjust the angle when I install the new one? It needs to be at something like 125*, and I have no idea how to check that with out the proper tool.

I did disconnect the T.O.R.S. today. It has gotten me many times already, like you said. It even stalled the motor once and made me over shoot a corner. luckily, there was a run off there. lol I let off the throttle at the last minute thinking I'd use the engine brake to make the corner, and she stalled. Freeked me out a little for a second. lol

I setup my TPS last time with no tool just using the dash display until I got it to read 16 and 96% it will never see 100% anways. I just adjusted via the console no special tool.
 
Looks like Jamie's got it covered...only thing I will add is if the TPS is reading low (15-69%) it would tell the ECU it doesn't need to inject as much fuel as it would if it was telling the ECU it was wide-open-throttle (96%) so that wouldn't reduce your fuel mileage. With a combination of TORS and TPS issues you could really have an unpleasant day. Can't help you on the fuel mileage as our environment, setup, and riding conditions are not the same (Apex Mountain). I've found that if I run my controller lean enough to get good mileage I get an occasional lean backfire on deceleration or a dead-spot in the throttle or when I snap it back to wide-open-throttle after deceleration. I intentionally try to keep mine rich in the 12s across the board and that eliminates both issues. I get 6-7-8 mpg steep-n-deep mountain riding.
 
Seems the IAC (idle air controller), which is basically an air bypass valve, has an effect on the reading. (cold engine vs full operating temp engine)... The IAC contains a thermowax that expands and contracts (opens/closes the controller) with coolant temperature... I checked mine cold (55*F) so the IAC was fully open, which bypasses air around the throttle plates, giving me a low vacuum signal... I'm 100% sure I have no hose/manifold vacuum leaks so once I get it all back together I'll check it again with the engine at full operating temp.
Old Thread: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=34821
 
Need for Speed 2 said:
During initial start warm up you read 16 on the af guage? that is odd should be reading 11s or 12s rich till warmed up.

My MPI nytro also shows 15 - 16 on the gauge until warmed up.
 
My rtx apex is getting 12-13 miles per gal ,
vortex bov , 5 lbs
using Ulmers fuel settings ,
runs awesome !
 
WooHooo. It was the TPS. I have not ever heard of that going out, but boy does it cause problems.

So you guys know: As a fail safe, when the TPS fails/is defective it automatically acts full open. So that would explain my fuel consumption. Just took her for a quick rip, and she did great. I also bypassed T.O.R.S. so that issue is gone to.

Heading up north in the morning, so we'll see what fuel mileage I get. I'm just glad it's fixed and running correctly. The TPS must have been bad when I installed this thing to begin with.

If you guys notice your mpg decrease, check your TPS.
 
I setup my TPS last time with no tool just using the dash display until I got it to read 16 and 96% it will never see 100% anways. I just adjusted via the console no special tool.
My TPS maxes at 106 full open. I've adjusted it several times to try to get it in the right range but then it's way too low (like 6%) at closed position. Last year I brought it down to 10% and that seemed to help with reverse issues, but not so much anymore and the bottom end seemed to suffer. As I'm mostly on ungroomed trails for fishing, this kind of sucked. Does this mean my throttle cable is strectched or do I need a new TPS? Like someone mentioned before, the reverse works if I start it right away, without letting it do its start up checks. I also get 84 and 15 codes sporadically. Nowadays it read anywhere from 15 to 20 closed throttle.
 


Back
Top