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SUC_doo

Extreme
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
95
Age
32
Location
Collingwood, Nova Scotia
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
17 sidewinder rtx, 08 apex ltx gt, 01 formula deluxe
I just changed the track in my 08 apex....changed the speedo,chain case and jack shaft bearings while in there.

Put track back on and suspension back in but cant get the track to align? I can get it to around 1/2 inch ssag on both sides but I'm just over quater inch from clip to slide on one side and just under on the other side..I can;t get the sag/distance the same???

did i mess something up putting the track in?
 

Those tracks are not a precision instrument, align as best you can, run it for a few hundred miles and then recheck. It will stretch some. If it's out 1/16th of an inch no big deal.
 
Align the track to the middle rear idler, making the gap to the rubber internal drive lugs equal visually. Run the track, let it come to a stop by itself, no brakes.
 
I just changed the track in my 08 apex....changed the speedo,chain case and jack shaft bearings while in there.

Put track back on and suspension back in but cant get the track to align? I can get it to around 1/2 inch ssag on both sides but I'm just over quater inch from clip to slide on one side and just under on the other side..I can;t get the sag/distance the same???

did i mess something up putting the track in?

SUC_doo, Just to confirm that I am reading this right, you have 1/2 inch sag on both sides AND you have just over a quarter inch from clip to slide on one side, and just under a quarter of an inch from clip to slide on the other side. What exactly, is wrong with that?
 
i have a 4th wheel kit
Same thing....Center the wheels in between the drive lugs...why would anyone want them to rub? That takes power. If the wheels or wheel isn't rubbing the lugs (maybe 1/16 clearance both sides), that's the best it's gonna be. That wheel will prevent you from getting the slide gap, once it's rubbing. Been doing that for decades....a pro stock racer friend told me years ago to do it. Makes sense. If no wheels inside the drive lugs, then center to the slides.
 
No thanks i like stuff done right.
If you are worrying about a 1/16 of an inch in track alignment, you are way to worried. I've eyeball track alignment on every sled I've ever owned. Never once did I have a failure. I'd bet 80% of the time it was within a 1/16.
 
Suc-doo, when you reinstalled your driveshaft did you center drivers exact? Measure from inside tunnel to center of drives, You must reinstall chaincase side 1st. The speedo side needs to be the same measurement to fix alinement 1st. If this is off it will alway pull the track to one side a little. If not centered, the guide track clips will hit the drivers and break off. Most people have no idea how to do this correctly. ( if speedo side tork set screw was tightened ( out of alinement) before chaincase was reassembled the driveshaft might not be tightened in all the way. The bolt going through the lower chaincase gears into the driveshaft needs to be tightened 1st before speedo bearing side if driveshaft was taken out to get it centered correctly.
 
Last edited:
Suc-doo, when you reinstalled your driveshaft did you center drivers exact? Measure from inside tunnel to center of drives, You must reinstall chaincase side 1st. The speedo side needs to be the same measurement to fix alinement 1st. If this is off it will alway pull the track to one side a little. If not centered, the guide track clips will hit the drivers and break off. Most people have no idea how to do this correctly. ( if speedo side tork set screw was tightened ( out of alinement) before chaincase was reassembled the driveshaft might not be tightened in all the way. The bolt going through the lower chaincase gears into the driveshaft needs to be tightened 1st before speedo bearing side if driveshaft was taken out to get it centered correctly.
Im not sure which hole we put it in first......but we put the chaincase back together first....the speedo sesnor and bolts were on but the set screws were installed last.
 


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