Track tension adjust question?

The repair manual shows every nut and bolt needed to put back together. Check idler wheels to ensure their not bent or warn. Had a bent one last year.
 
If you jack the front of your sled up (any way you please) and grab the ski loops and pull up on them, look for play where the a-arms mount to the sub frame. Upper and lower. Stock Yamaha uses plastic bushings which wore out sitting on the showroom floor I think! Mine were toast, replaced them all with oilite bushings.
FX Nytro/Phazer Oilite Front End Bushing Kit:

  • Replaces all the front end bushings in the front end of your 2007 and newer Yamaha 4-stroke!

  • Fits 2007-2012 Phazer/Venture and 2008-2012 FX Nytro models!

  • Kit Includes:
    -4 upper a-arm bushings
    -8 lower a-arm bushings


  • 2007-2009 Phazer $75

  • 2008 FX Nytro $75

  • 2009 FX Nytro $86

***Click on image for larger picture***


The stock ski bushings are also prone to wear. Ball joints will likely have some play. Mine do, but not enough for me to replace just yet.

Apex, RX-1, Vector, Phazer, FX Nytro Ski Bolt Bushing Kit:

  • Do you notice excessive play in the area where the ski bolts to the spindle? If so we have new bushings that will tighten up the slop!

  • Fits all 4-stroke models!

  • Kit Includes:
    4 Spindle Bushings (2 per side)


  • $35 per set

  • Add the kit onto any front end bushing kits and get it for a discounted price of $25!

***Click on image for larger picture***
Can you message me this so can save it and buy both when ready. I will want to go through the whole sled slowly. Thanks
 
There is supposed to be roughly a 1 1/8 \" gap between the track and the sliders with roughly 15lbs of pull on the track. I can't remember, when I get to the shop I'll look it up in the manual.
 
22lbs and distance varies by track type and length, and drivers (extroverts run looser). Manual shows 1.18"-1.38" for the short tracks, 0.98"-1.18" for the XTX, 1.18"-1.38" for the XTX 1.75, 1.57"-1.77" for the Mountain tracks. These are from the manual, there's a lot of discussion on here about looser tracks for various reasons.
 
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3 wheels in the rear is the stock setup. You can buy a 4th wheel kit but it's not necessary. I run the track as loose as possible without it ratcheting. It is important that the track is centered. I compare the gaps between the track clips and the rail near the rear of the skid. There's normally about 1/4" gap on each side.

4th wheel added to an extended RTX skid:
Grizztrack
3 wheels in the rear is the stock setup. You can buy a 4th wheel kit but it's not necessary. I run the track as loose as possible without it ratcheting. It is important that the track is centered. I compare the gaps between the track clips and the rail near the rear of the skid. There's normally about 1/4" gap on each side.

4th wheel added to an extended RTX skid:
Grizz what is the reason for running your track lose and what is the benefit of it?
 
Grizztrack

Grizz what is the reason for running your track lose and what is the benefit of it?

probably Hyfax/slider wear (and maybe reduced rolling resistance)....most other aspects are negative (increased risk of ratcheting unless you have extroverts, increased track ballooning at speed, debateable decreased rear suspension performance (as I find the track tension does impact sag), anything else?)
 
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Well I've been fighting with my exhaust donuts, crappy aftermarket exhaust, and other things.

I ordered the 4 wheel kit + 3 new wheels from the Bargain guy. Going to get the skid out tonight and hopefully get it back in and the track aligned so I can button up something. Sled looks like a mess right now! Especially since I just bought it lol
 
I'd say this is bent:

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Also.. the back mounting spot might be bent too? I can't tell.

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that's why you pull the skid!
 
The rear arm, it's hard to tell in the picture, but I believe that's just the way the springs sit. (Angled). The actual steel looks straight. However the front arm looks tweaked a bit.
 
Looks bent to me. You may want to look over the entire suspension for cracks if you haven't already.
 
I gave it a quick once over last night and didn't find any cracks except for in the bent front pivot arm. I do think the back is straight but the springs make it look un-straight.. I'm just going to run it for the time being I think. Not sure how to take that apart.

If you look close at the top front shock bolt it is almost sheared off.. someone bottomed this thing out HARD. Ordered a new nut/bolt & front pivot arm. Also found some nuked bearings in the idler wheels, does anybody know what part# those bearings are? I have a press to pop the old ones out with.
 
If they are original idler wheels, the bearings are not replaceable. I popped the seals and greased the bearings on mine. Depends on condition of your bearings though
 
If they are original idler wheels, the bearings are not replaceable. I popped the seals and greased the bearings on mine. Depends on condition of your bearings though
UwdrBpZ.jpg


sorry for the huge pic

but these two were the problem children, and it looks like they have a snap ring in them. assuming i can take that out, pop out the bearing and replace?
 


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