Track Tension

I've been curious about track tension as well since changing out slides a few times. Asked a few times and have been told to run on the tight side due to having 162 1.375 picks in the track and at higher speeds the ballooning track would damage the exhaust. Anyone have experience with such a set-up?
 
I run mine as loose as possible without causing ratcheting. About 2" below slides free hanging in the center. Yamaha spec is much too tight.
 
On my LTX with a much tighter track tension than called for I mashed my rear heat exchanger on normal trail riding, no jumps. I have 1.45 studs I think. I put some hyfax on the existing tunnel protectors to help this problem. So far so good but afraid to take any "air" in case of disaster. Not quite as fun tho.
 
bobber said:
I've been curious about track tension as well since changing out slides a few times. Asked a few times and have been told to run on the tight side due to having 162 1.375 picks in the track and at higher speeds the ballooning track would damage the exhaust. Anyone have experience with such a set-up?

I have 198 studs in 08 136" definatly run it on the snug side if you are studded or your studs will ruin the rear frame, exhaust and front cooler.
TRUST ME!
 
big_red1a said:
bobber said:
I've been curious about track tension as well since changing out slides a few times. Asked a few times and have been told to run on the tight side due to having 162 1.375 picks in the track and at higher speeds the ballooning track would damage the exhaust. Anyone have experience with such a set-up?

I have 198 studs in 08 136" definatly run it on the snug side if you are studded or your studs will ruin the rear frame, exhaust and front cooler.
TRUST ME!
Ya. I loosened it, but thinking on tightening it back up. I know the studs scratched the frame under the exhaust a bit too and also mashed my rear heat exchanger, but not sure if the extra protection would completly stop this or not>> HMMMM, what to do,.....I guess it will be more of a preference thing for me now. Really appreciate all the input as usual. Thanks all.
 
After some nasty scarring on my rear cooler I installed larger protectors (thicker hyfax) on my rear cooler as well. Track has always been adjusted to factory spec and at times I still notice there's a new scratch on the exhaust. Would like to be able to run a bit looser if for nothing else but to let the machine 'coast' better but have to run tight due to the studs, which I will not give up.
 
This must just be an issue on the longer tracks. I run my short track very loose and I only have some scratches on my muffler bracket.

The rear heat exchanger that I added is very compact and is tucked away well unlike the larger long track rear heat exchangers.
 

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Blue Dave said:
This must just be an issue on the longer tracks. I run my short track very loose and I only have some scratches on my rear muffler bracket]
That rear bracket is a frame support and mine hase worn right through
 
My "frame support" only has scratches in it after 6000 miles of running the track very loose with 144 1.375" studs. Therefore am I correct in assuming that this is just a long track issue?
 
Blue Dave said:
My "frame support" only has scratches in it after 6000 miles of running the track very loose with 144 1.375" studs. Therefore am I correct in assuming that this is just a long track issue?

I will check my 121 tonight and see what it looks like?
I am only running 98 studs but I do have my track fairly loose, 1 1/4-1 1/2 free hang in the middle
 
i usually use the "2 finger rule" to get the track close to where it should be as a start. when tightening the track, i go until i can barely squeeze my index and middle finger between the track and the hyfax near the middle of the rails. once at this point i then take a few laps around the yard under hard acceleration. if the track jumps or clunks, then i adjust it a little tighter, if not then i leave it alone.. simple enough for me
 
X2. I use 2 finger as well. Seems tight but with Polaris wheels my hyfax seems to hold up ok. Tighter track is faster as well due to less ballooning of the track.
 
big_red1a said:
Tighter track is faster as well due to less ballooning of the track.

I would think that a tight track robs more horsepower because of friction than a balooning track robs due to aerodynamic drag.
 
I run 144 1.52'' extreme max racing studs on my 121'' apex and don't even have a scratch. Have about a 1.5'' of track hang in middle.
 


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