Shawn660
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Thinking about going with the STM protectors on a 2022 xtx se.
I need studs, so I'm track shopping or cutting my 2" down... What's the tallest track I can go with and stud? I'm hearing the track will hit the protectors?
I was going to do this last year but moved onto other projects then got stuck on ice on flat ground
I need studs, so I'm track shopping or cutting my 2" down... What's the tallest track I can go with and stud? I'm hearing the track will hit the protectors?
I was going to do this last year but moved onto other projects then got stuck on ice on flat ground
KnappAttack
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Really depends on what you are trying to achieve and conditions you run it in. Max lug I'd do on studding for the trail would be a 1.25" and max trail stud a 1.57" Woody's. The 1.25" track already balloons into the the factory heat exchangers/protectors even when tight at speed.
Longer lug tracks require longer studs and more chance of pullouts, plus they fold over easier and spin more more when studs and lugs are flexing anyway. Shorter is better in that regard.
Myself, I'd never run the STM protectors over the heat exchangers in the middle and up front as the sled will slow more as the track hits it when ballooning. The more clearance you can gain the better. Plus you are insulating the exchanger from the snow/water spray and hurting the cooling effect.
If you more in powder or loose snow, maybe a Ice Series Cobra 1.6 with built in studs. I know the 1.25 Ice ripper works well for trail use, but certainly nothing like real studs.
Longer lug tracks require longer studs and more chance of pullouts, plus they fold over easier and spin more more when studs and lugs are flexing anyway. Shorter is better in that regard.
Myself, I'd never run the STM protectors over the heat exchangers in the middle and up front as the sled will slow more as the track hits it when ballooning. The more clearance you can gain the better. Plus you are insulating the exchanger from the snow/water spray and hurting the cooling effect.
If you more in powder or loose snow, maybe a Ice Series Cobra 1.6 with built in studs. I know the 1.25 Ice ripper works well for trail use, but certainly nothing like real studs.
Shawn660
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Waiting on 2022 Sidewinder XTX SE
I was thinking 1 3/4 minimum, I'm 90% off trail.Really depends on what you are trying to achieve and conditions you run it in. Max lug I'd do on studding for the trail would be a 1.25" and max trail stud a 1.57" Woody's. The 1.25" track already balloons into the the factory heat exchangers/protectors even when tight at speed.
Longer lug tracks require longer studs and more chance of pullouts, plus they fold over easier and spin more more when studs and lugs are flexing anyway. Shorter is better in that regard.
Myself, I'd never run the STM protectors over the heat exchangers in the middle and up front as the sled will slow more as the track hits it when ballooning. The more clearance you can gain the better. Plus you are insulating the exchanger from the snow/water spray and hurting the cooling effect.
If you more in powder or loose snow, maybe a Ice Series Cobra 1.6 with built in studs. I know the 1.25 Ice ripper works well for trail use, but certainly nothing like real studs.
I love the 2" but there's not enough traction spring and fall.
My old sled had a 1.6 with conventional studs and even that wasn't quite enough lug. I ended up going to a 2.5" and would put the 1.6 back on at the end of the year when we were running lots of ice. I figured with having 300HP now I can probably get away with 1 3/4.
KnappAttack
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Well one thing is certain, long lugs need even longer studs.
Myself, I wouldn't be running that long of a stud or that much track lug, and if your 90% off trail you dont need studs IMO. Stick with what you have or put those screw in studs in. Sounds like you may not be 90% off trail if you want studs in a big lugged track though.
More power is more track spin, more track spin especially off trail is going to equal a stud catching a stump, log, rock or something under the track and having lots of pullouts, bent studs or even worse a ripped track out in the boondocks. I guess if you had good luck with a 1.6 track and studs you may have it figured out and be fine, I'm just saying if it were mine. Your sled, your risk, but there is not that much tunnel clearance in these sleds to be risking it like that IMO.
Myself, I wouldn't be running that long of a stud or that much track lug, and if your 90% off trail you dont need studs IMO. Stick with what you have or put those screw in studs in. Sounds like you may not be 90% off trail if you want studs in a big lugged track though.
More power is more track spin, more track spin especially off trail is going to equal a stud catching a stump, log, rock or something under the track and having lots of pullouts, bent studs or even worse a ripped track out in the boondocks. I guess if you had good luck with a 1.6 track and studs you may have it figured out and be fine, I'm just saying if it were mine. Your sled, your risk, but there is not that much tunnel clearance in these sleds to be risking it like that IMO.
STAIN
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Speaking of bent stud or rip outs, I have been been using the INS Hornet studs for quite a few years. These studs have a really narrow profile and will snap before they bend or pull through. I change 2-3 studs per year but it is better than a rip out or bent stud.
I have yet to rip one of these studs out a track, I have studded 4 of my own tracks with them. They do offer a warranty for bent or broken studs but I have never pursued it.
I currently have these studs on my 2022 with a 1.5 track. Can you even stud a 1.75 track???? I would agree that the screw in stud might be a better solution for that size track.
I have yet to rip one of these studs out a track, I have studded 4 of my own tracks with them. They do offer a warranty for bent or broken studs but I have never pursued it.
I currently have these studs on my 2022 with a 1.5 track. Can you even stud a 1.75 track???? I would agree that the screw in stud might be a better solution for that size track.
Shawn660
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There's not really enough lug for screw ins, not thick enough. That is honestly what I would have went with already.
The issue is now and the end of March into April. Getting into some places we fish you end up with hills that are glare ice, loose snow on the lake with glare ice under it. Literally no traction, kinda kinda dangerous.
I put #17 car tire studs in tracks to (the holes in the tracks on skandics, expeditions etc) again tho there isn't enough lug.
The issue is now and the end of March into April. Getting into some places we fish you end up with hills that are glare ice, loose snow on the lake with glare ice under it. Literally no traction, kinda kinda dangerous.
I put #17 car tire studs in tracks to (the holes in the tracks on skandics, expeditions etc) again tho there isn't enough lug.
RobX-1
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Not sure what 1.75" track you're thinking about using but I know MrSled installed those iGrips in his 1.75" Backcountry track and don't hearing him having any issues with the lugs being thick enough for the screw-in type stud.
Shawn660
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Not sure what 1.75" track you're thinking about using but I know MrSled installed those iGrips in his 1.75" Backcountry track and don't hearing him having any issues with the lugs being thick enough for the screw-in type stud.
The stock track I mean. I don't particularly want to change the track if I don't have to. I guess I never really thought about swapping tracks then using screw ins.
jonlafon1
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Based on your posts I have 144 of these I will be running this season.. These are slightly lighter then Woodys gold diggers/ what i usually run..Speaking of bent stud or rip outs, I have been been using the INS Hornet studs for quite a few years. These studs have a really narrow profile and will snap before they bend or pull through
STAIN
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I use the stud boy backers......i did not like the pro series backer.Based on your posts I have 144 of these I will be running this season.. These are slightly lighter then Woodys gold diggers/ what i usually run..
jonlafon1
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I will be using woodys single rounds. Looks like a nice stud and guessing it will penetrate well.. I like the idea of breaking instead of bending or pulling out.. Not had many issues myself with this but willing to step out of the box and try something new..I use the stud boy backers......i did not like the pro series backer.
Shawn660
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They need to come out with something for a bit of ice traction on big paddles, maybe something molded into the paddle with a little carbide nipple just to keep you straight.
Especially with the winters we've been having, lots of snow sometimes, then warm, freeze and snow again. Seems like it's tons of snow or none here lately.
Especially with the winters we've been having, lots of snow sometimes, then warm, freeze and snow again. Seems like it's tons of snow or none here lately.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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They need to come out with something for a bit of ice traction on big paddles, maybe something molded into the paddle with a little carbide nipple just to keep you straight.
Especially with the winters we've been having, lots of snow sometimes, then warm, freeze and snow again. Seems like it's tons of snow or none here lately.
You need to realize that the lugs will also be more prone to folding over with carbide tips or screws in the end too. If you abuse them, the lugs just fold over and rip off over time too. More power will make it even worse....
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