Transfer blocks

[WINDER1987]

hi everyone I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the racewerx transfer blocks but just checking before I order it anyone else has seen anything better out or in the making and what's your opinion on the racewerx? Thanks

 

[dsimonRX1]

I been on this chassis for the last 6 years and have always just taken the plastic blocks out and ran with just the tube installed.

 

[steiner]

Did you see this thread?
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/removing-transfer-blocks.145776/page-3

 

[DMCTurbo]

hi everyone I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the racewerx transfer blocks but just checking before I order it anyone else has seen anything better out or in the making and what's your opinion on the racewerx? Thanks

Save your money, just remove the blocks...

 

[WINDER1987]

Did you see this thread?
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/removing-transfer-blocks.145776/page-3

Yes I did just seeing if anything new was out

Save your money, just remove the blocks...

from what others said the racewerx adjusts to more transfer than with the blocks removed is this true or it just the ease of fast adjustments?

 

[DMCTurbo]

Yes I did just seeing if anything new was out

from what others said the racewerx adjusts to more transfer than with the blocks removed is this true or it just the ease of fast adjustments?

That I can't answer...

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Loosen straps to the last hole, it makes more difference. Blocks removed, bar left in place.

I think depending on rear wheel size, you could move the rear bar back closer to wheels...would need to drill two new holes. Not sure it would make huge difference though, not much room before wheels.

Dan

 

[fatchance]

Maybe somebody that has the racewerx can measure the radius, center too outside of the block on the 1st setting and compare to the stock bar. I just don't see gaining anything there though because the stock bar has a flat side on it which I articulated facing forward so it makes contact there and it is just slightly larger in diameter than the shaft itself.
The only reason I would go with the Racewerx is to quickly adjust for more transfer if the conditions are more loose snow than hard pack.

 

[stevewithOCD]

This wednesday or friday i plan on removing my Racewerx adjuster & taking measurements compared to stock. I'll post results...

 

[BlueByYou2000]

I loosened my limiter to the last hole, tightened center shock about 3/4" and removed the blocks and can tell you it transfers. I wouldn't want it transferring anymore than it does.

 

[mooser17]

I loosened my limiter to the last hole, tightened center shock about 3/4" and removed the blocks and can tell you it transfers. I wouldn't want it transferring anymore than it does.

Did you find tightening the Centre shock helped with the heavy steering? Also by stiffening the Centre shock did it ride ok? Not too rough?

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Did you find tightening the Centre shock helped with the heavy steering? Also by stiffening the Centre shock did it ride ok? Not too rough?

Yes, it works great. Takes some pressure off the skis, makes it transfer better but am sure it will effect ride some.

 

[jonlafon1]

I just put a different spring in my LTX-SE.. (have not rode sled with it yet)
Its apparently rated at 135/265 instead of >>>>>> 90/260 I believe to be stock on the SE.

http://www.raptorshocks.com/store/products/Triple-Rate-Springs-(Front-Track).html

Not sure this even applies to the LE but IMO the initial sit in or sag on the stock spring(SE) is a TOUCH to light which is causing heavy ski steer.

 

[**sj**]

removing the block with the rod in works...but ...hitting the rod will jack up the paint on those pads ...also...when Im done on the lake...and hitting a winding trail...I just turn the racewerx to where I want it and im there...and removing the rod altogether...to me...too much transfer to corner to corner burn..

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I loosened my limiter to the last hole, tightened center shock about 3/4" and removed the blocks and can tell you it transfers. I wouldn't want it transferring anymore than it does.

Yours is a 129? I cant recall.

I wonder if I put the blocks back in now, with straps at very last hole now...would it be good still?

It works better now with blocks out and straps loosest for sure. But personally would not like metal to metal contact if sled was my own.

I will come up with some sort of pad, maybe just a piece of abs tubing over the bare rod.