Turbo will not run, no answers from anyone!! Please help

wildbill said:
If your T's are leaking you can always try a zip tie. Hold it down with a screw driver and pull up with a pair of pliers Just curious--would a leak in the T's cause it to run lean or rich? I would think lean because you are decreasing the pressure to the bowls.

leaking "t" s causes a lean condition , he say's it going toward rich.
 
Your mains are a little fat, but that is not your problem. You either have a leak, low fuel pressure, or kinked line. My money is on leaking tees.

Remove your carb rack and put it on a bench where you can work on it with ease. Remove the two tees that racesx mentioned. Clean them and the nipples on the carbs VERY well. Then super glue the daylights out of them and reinstall. Once installed use zip ties or small gauge wire to help give them extra hold.

Next put hose clamps on every single conection on every single hose.

Then install the airbox and look everywhere (especially under it) for any sign of kinked lines.

FYI....A dry crisp popping is a sign of running lean. A dull wet sounding gurgle is rich.
 

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99% of all problems with the bender system is with installation.... As others stated above, the slightest leak on the vent tree's will give you problems.... I have been doing this for years, and last month I installed a boondocker n20 kit (which does not work while under boost....) which caused me to revent my T lines.... It took me three attempts to get a good seal with some new fuel line i was using.. each time i thought i had a perfect seal.... You also may have a leak in the intake side... you did not say what your boost was doing... Advice from the cheap seats is ... DO NOT SELL THE TURBO.... Most all will tell you if you can not fix the problem bring it back to Terry and let him fix it.... the pleasure the sled turbo will give you will more than pay the travel time and expense....
 
I am positive I have leaking tee,s. Sled just loses power at wot but is fine cruising. Seems like the brake is on & sled is struggling.The problem is not as bad at hi boost but i am still way down on hp! My problem only happens at full throttle.My air/fuel gauge goes allmost into lean at idle(That,s the only time I can actually see the damn thing!) & backfires when I shut it off. Gonna check it out!
 
Hey Kip I know someone using Boondockers on a Bender setup. To my knowledge it works under boost, but I don't know all of the details of his install. PM me and I can put you in touch with him.
 
This sounds like a problem I'm having. Had the turbo installed (powderlite) and can't get it to run, the thing falls flat on it's face at around 5000rpm and starts to miss prior to that. It's like it runs out of fuel, if I let off the throttle then it continues to run otherwise it just dies. I know the t's at the carbs are not sealed but was told that it should still run. Also was told to run 127 mains in which many people tell me that's too lean. The next thing I was going to do is up the mains back to stock or even go right up to 138.5. How critical are the t's? They are tiewrapped but I can still rotate them. Would this cause the thing to just die like that? This unit does not have a Pito jet like the bender either, but does sound like a similar problem to me.
 
If Powderlites pressurizes the float bowls then it absolutley positively will NOT run without the tees being sealed.

Even if they don't move but have the slightest little leak it will give you total fits.

Those tees are very flexible and when you go throw air pressure at them at what ever boost level you are running they leak. This bleads the pressure off of the float bowls and the boost going through your carbs quickly overcomes your fuel and presto you are lean or in an extreme case you run out of fuel untill the boost goes away.

Who the heck told you it would run with unsealed tees? That's just plain silly. (unless they have some trick that does not require float bowl pressure, they would be the first)
 
I'm not sure if I was clear hlmrx, but you need to glue the crap out of those tees and make sure they are 100% sealed.
 
BlueByYou2000, yes these came with some aluminum inserts that slide intor the T's and they did tell me to use epoxy on them, guess I'll have to pull off the carb rack and redo them. What main jets should I go with on these? Sorry about kinda stealing this post but the problems sound very similar and maybe the solutions will be too.
 
Also, what is the best to use on these T's, epoxy, crazy glue or I also have Loctite 404, which is very much like crazy glue?
 
I used a product made for repairing car bumpers to seal my "t" s off , made by duramix , 2 component with a mixing tube .
 
99.9% OF EVERY PROBLEM THAT I HAVE HAD WITH MY TURBO HAS TO DO WITH PLUMBING............LEAKS AND HOSE CLAMPS. ;)!
 


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