Ulmer Racing MPI 8 lb to 12 lb upgrade..more boost more fun.

[MrSled]

Here is the complete write and info that I put together this spring of 2015 with Allen at Ulmer Racing. What a project it was.

• Remove the side panels, hood, seat and tank cover
• Remove gas tank and battery

• Drain oil and antifreeze - we removed the front bumper for ease of draining the antifreeze. We also removed the right side food well/toe kick to drain the oil
• Remove the inspection pan under the motor as well as the oil filter
• Remove heat shield
• Remove header
• Remove radiator and radiator bracket
• Remove silencer and heat shield
• Remove clutches, belt and clutch guard

• Remove cross member, air filter, and turbo in its entirety (turbo as one package)

• Remove air oil separator
• Remove main structure pipes from steering column down
• Remove throttle cable (put these around the handle bars so they are out of the way) and then throttle bodies
• Pull wiring harness to the left side so it stays out of the way
• Tilt motor forward to remove ground and starter cable
  
• Disconnect the 2 oil pressure sensors on the bottom of the motor, one is black, one is white
• Pull 2 front motor bolts and pull out motor

 

[MrSled]

• Remove spark plug caps
• Remove top motor fasteners and head
• Remove spark plugs
• Line up the OHC with the marks on the cam caps
  
• Line up the pointer in the fly wheel which dictated top dead center on the #3 cylinder.
  • Cams should point to 4:00 and 7:00
• Line up lines on timing chain gear
  • Arrows point to timing chain. "I" indicates intake and "E" indicates exhaust side for cam caps. Intake cam has a single raised area and exhaust has double
• Pay attention to arrow direction on chain tensioner

• Do not remove the head bolt with an impact. Always start in the middle and stagger from inside out
• Use an old egg carton and label it to keep track of the locations
• Remove head and clean both the head and block with carb cleaner and paper towel

 

[MrSled]

• PTO front corner stud cannot be threaded in too far - it will hit the water pump gear
• Install new gasket (. 080"), lube on both sides of washers and back side of nut
• Torque in 3 steps - center out crisscross
  • 1st: 15 ft/lbs
  • 2nd: 30 ft/lbs
  • 3rd: 45 ft/lbs
  • Walk away for some time, then come back and loosen each bolt by 1 1/2 turn and re-torque to last setting

• Remove intake boots and wash in hot soapy water
• Shim cams
  
• Advance timing one linkage on chain
• Reinstall head with Yamabond

• Reinstall cleaned boots with Yamabond
• Reinstall throttle bodies with Yamabond
• Reinstall motor, opposite of removal steps
• Install oil separator bypass

 

[MrSled]

• Put silicon on exhaust gasket
• Reinstall turbo, waste gate, air filter, opposite of removal steps

• Reinstall and re-route oil lines, coolant lines for oil separator and thermostat housing

• Install 4th injector kit and updated fuel pump

• On throttle bodies, use another screw driver to remove screws, see photo

• See photos showing modifications to inter-cooler
  
• Fuel hose needed was about 5 1/2"

 

[MrSled]

• Mark, as shown in photo, fastening ring that holds fuel pump into tank. Be sure that the mark is on both the ring and fuel pump
• Unhook power
  
• Remove ring and fuel pump and very carefully pull out lines and filters

• Turn the white clips on the pump housing from perpendicular to parallel to remove pump covers to expose pump, filters, and hoses

• Remover power, positive and negative, from pump and bottom filter
  
• Remove metal ring from bottom of pump
• Remove corrugated line and pump
• Remove filer Y line

 

[MrSled]

• To remove the fuel pressure regulator assembly, push all 4 inner tabs in at the same time (you may need a couple extra hands for this)
• Pry tabs gently to remove white pressure regulator
• Swap o-ring to the new block off
  
• Put into assembly and reinstall
• Install sealed washer onto the brass 90 degree fitting
• Drill a hole into cap, approx .389"
• Install nut onto backside of brass elbow, use red lock-tite and tighten
• Snap pressure regulator assembly back in

• Put metal ring back into fuel filter
• Remove existing ground prong and install new one provided
• Push corrugated tubes onto cap
• Connect positive and negative
• Connect fuel filter to bottom of pump
• Put assembly back into sleeve and cup
• Reinstall white clips, perpendicular is locked
  
• Reconnect filter Y hose
• Make sure gasket is on the bottom side of cup
• Fish assembly back into tank and fasten, making sure the mark you made is pointing towards the battery, as shown in previous photos

 

[MrSled]

• Install throttle bodies with Yamabond
• Reinstall radiator and hoses
• Reinstall tank, hoses, throttle cable, wiring harness. Everything installed in reverse sequence
• Install Power Commander modules and accessories
• Run all remaining wires and fuel lines
• Don't forget to fill antifreeze and oil once everything is put back together!!

 

[MrSled]

Early on, when everything was ripped apart, we re-geard the machine. We also added an oil lite steering pushing kit.

 

[MrSled]

Here are the Vids from some of the final tunes.

 

[Yamadog]

Well where are the numbers? I think it would be interesting to look at the hp from the same dyno for 2 of them at 12#'s mine has low comp pistons vs head shim

 

[Yamadog]

The blue line is at I believe 9#'s and the red is at 12#'s

 

[MrSled]

I will see if Allen can send me that graph over.

 

[bleedyamaha]

Wow all that looks overwhelming. I was hoping to do my own install If I buy a 190 kit.

 

[Yamadog]

oh the 190 kit is no problem its when you go above 6#'s of boost. He is now at about 252 hp

 

[MrSled]

oh the 190 kit is no problem its when you go above 6#'s of boost. He is now at about 252 hp

Exactly... 190 is still a job but nothing like this.