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Viper Clutching

Schlorven

Extreme
Joined
Oct 19, 2010
Messages
56
Location
Sweden
I have a viper 2015 xtx 141 LE whit PC track.

My current setup is:

Super tip 50g

Primary spring O-P-O

8dn

Dalton 46/40 helix

Stock spring and Dalton red spring.


I have read, "Clutching to the cheap"

I have some question about the secondary clutch. I have tested the Dalton red in 6-1 and it work OK, but whit the standard pink set in 3-3 i fel that it´s more pull from low end, i don’t se some big change in top speed between the springs, but the snowmobile doesn’t go so fast 120-130km/. "Dead end" comes in 115-120km/h.


I wonder if it can be some coil binding. is the Dalton helix cut for prevent coilbindning ?

Can i measure the depth of the two helix and see if they have the same from top to bottom.

My thought was to put in the stock helix whit stock spring and see where the helix is starting on the buttons, then install the Dalton helix and se if the start are at the same position. If it´s don’t start at the same position can a shim the helix out. is this the right way to go?

Another question is if the helix ramp should go hole way out when is it full shift.


Or should i just order the big venom secondary spring that seems to be god according to the "clutching to the cheap"


I have seen that it´s the G-W-G spring in the COTC kit, this spring has almost the same finish rate as O-P-O but longer, is it a ide to change primary spring and put some washers in?

i think a have Y-G-Y 40-123 89,4mm long. Longer that O-P-O but 0,4mm shorter than GWG, don’t the same finish but the only it will do is that i must take away some weight, is it any ide to test the YGY?
 

What R your RPM's at 120?
 
i did find some interesting at the secundary inner sleve, that one that have the glide buttons. I found a little casting edge on the bottom were the spring is compressed against. i grinded it away, but i havint testet it and if it did something. The pic is not from my snowmobile, i found it her on forum and i painted where the casting edge was.
 

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Is it any diffrence between spring possions in the secondary between the dalton red and stock secondary spring. I will try to wrap red spring 3-3 or even 3-2
 
Actually I would leave more twist in the secondary spring and add a couple grams of tip weight. If you pull twist out you'll lose top end, cause you loose belt tension. You may have to add even more weight but start with 2 grams go from there.
 
If your looking for top speed mph, low helix finish angle and lots of secondary spring help you get to full shift out. I know this sounds wrong, but it's because most clutch setups slip the belt slightly at full shift out. You need to keep the belt clamp force higher so more tip weight is key
 
I'm thinking that these 4strokes don't need a Multi angle helx .. I've been really struggling to get this to work right .. With ulmer kit and a sandal muffler weights are empty and 6-1 can only get 8800 topped out and 84 mph.. got overdrive cut in and still can't get it it shift out all the way
 
If you absolutely positive your not getting full shift out then try a stiffer secondary spring with less initial twist. You will probably have to add more weight, usually in the tip.
 
I have a viper 2015 xtx 141 LE whit PC track.

My current setup is:

Super tip 50g

Primary spring O-P-O

8dn

Dalton 46/40 helix

Stock spring and Dalton red spring.


I have read, "Clutching to the cheap"

I have some question about the secondary clutch. I have tested the Dalton red in 6-1 and it work OK, but whit the standard pink set in 3-3 i fel that it´s more pull from low end, i don’t se some big change in top speed between the springs, but the snowmobile doesn’t go so fast 120-130km/. "Dead end" comes in 115-120km/h.


I wonder if it can be some coil binding. is the Dalton helix cut for prevent coilbindning ?

Can i measure the depth of the two helix and see if they have the same from top to bottom.

My thought was to put in the stock helix whit stock spring and see where the helix is starting on the buttons, then install the Dalton helix and se if the start are at the same position. If it´s don’t start at the same position can a shim the helix out. is this the right way to go?

Another question is if the helix ramp should go hole way out when is it full shift.


Or should i just order the big venom secondary spring that seems to be god according to the "clutching to the cheap"


I have seen that it´s the G-W-G spring in the COTC kit, this spring has almost the same finish rate as O-P-O but longer, is it a ide to change primary spring and put some washers in?

i think a have Y-G-Y 40-123 89,4mm long. Longer that O-P-O but 0,4mm shorter than GWG, don’t the same finish but the only it will do is that i must take away some weight, is it any ide to test the YGY?
I'm thinking that these 4strokes don't need a Multi angle helx .. I've been really struggling to get this to work right .. With ulmer kit and a sandal muffler weights are empty and 6-1 can only get 8800 topped out and 84 mph.. got overdrive cut in and still can't get it it shift out all the way
Good day
I have a 2016 Viper 137 with trail can air box mod and big Venom clutch kit and can hit 100 + MPH on a snow covered lake. I am just over 200lbs with gear on. I can have a look at my settings if you like.
 


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