Widrig
VIP Member
Howdy,
Has anyone experienced and addressed excess play in the steering column; loose/sloppy steering? Wondering if the Heavy-Duty Steering Bearing Kit designed for the Phazer would work in a VK Po II:
Heavy-Duty Steering Bearing Kit - Yamaha Motor Canada (yamaha-motor.ca)
Thanks!
Has anyone experienced and addressed excess play in the steering column; loose/sloppy steering? Wondering if the Heavy-Duty Steering Bearing Kit designed for the Phazer would work in a VK Po II:
Heavy-Duty Steering Bearing Kit - Yamaha Motor Canada (yamaha-motor.ca)
Thanks!
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2009
- Messages
- 3,944
- Location
- Greely, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- '07 Venture MP (gone)
'07 Phazer FX (gone)
'09 Phazer GT (gone)
'10 RS Venture GT (My current ride)
'10 Nytro FX (son's)
- LOCATION
- Greely, ON Canada
I doubt it very much. It was designed specifically for the Phazer and Venture Lite/MP, which are basically overgrown Phazers. They kinda built up on @UP bushman 's design. Totally different steering linkage system.
There are lots of pivot points and links. I counted 11 not including the ski spindles. A little slop in each of those points adds up to a lot of slop. The secret is to try and keep them all lubed as much as possible, especially the exposed types like the outer tie-rods and the dog bones (#35). Those can wear fairly quickly.
Check the bushings in the pivot arms (#39, 43, 40 and 47)
There are lots of pivot points and links. I counted 11 not including the ski spindles. A little slop in each of those points adds up to a lot of slop. The secret is to try and keep them all lubed as much as possible, especially the exposed types like the outer tie-rods and the dog bones (#35). Those can wear fairly quickly.
Check the bushings in the pivot arms (#39, 43, 40 and 47)
Widrig
VIP Member
I doubt it very much. It was designed specifically for the Phazer and Venture Lite/MP, which are basically overgrown Phazers. They kinda built up on @UP bushman 's design. Totally different steering linkage system.
There are lots of pivot points and links. I counted 11 not including the ski spindles. A little slop in each of those points adds up to a lot of slop. The secret is to try and keep them all lubed as much as possible, especially the exposed types like the outer tie-rods and the dog bones (#35). Those can wear fairly quickly.
Check the bushings in the pivot arms (#39, 43, 40 and 47)
Great, thanks Mooseman. I'll disregard the kit and check out the bushings and linkages. It was also recommended to inspect the tie rod ends for wear/loose nuts.
Widrig
VIP Member
Had the machine apart and believe the issue is #13; upper steering bearing (picture attached).
With the machine parked on a cement floor the handle bars can be moved slightly without the skis moving on the floor. The play seems to stop at #13; after that there is minimal movement down at #35 and nil after that. Bolts/nuts are snug.
#31 and #32 u-joints seem fine, can't see any other sources of slack other than the upper steering bearing.
Does anyone have experience replacing this? Wondering if it could be shimmed to snug it up. Thanks!
With the machine parked on a cement floor the handle bars can be moved slightly without the skis moving on the floor. The play seems to stop at #13; after that there is minimal movement down at #35 and nil after that. Bolts/nuts are snug.
#31 and #32 u-joints seem fine, can't see any other sources of slack other than the upper steering bearing.
Does anyone have experience replacing this? Wondering if it could be shimmed to snug it up. Thanks!
John B
Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2016
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- 23
- Age
- 50
- Location
- Watertown, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 RS Viking Professional
I took that one apart on mine before, if I recall I had to take the shift linkage apart to get at it. I don't remember exactly what I did, I may have ground down the mating surfaces slightly so that it was tighter when reassembled which improved the sloppiness in mine.
I also have pretty sloppy steering on mine as well, as someone else mentioned a little bit of play in the bazillion joints in the steering system adds up. I can grab the steering shaft at the opposite end of #13 and feel play in the bearing (#23), so that is another one to look at. I can also see some play at the ski's in the universal joint (#51).
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2009
- Messages
- 3,944
- Location
- Greely, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- '07 Venture MP (gone)
'07 Phazer FX (gone)
'09 Phazer GT (gone)
'10 RS Venture GT (My current ride)
'10 Nytro FX (son's)
- LOCATION
- Greely, ON Canada
That #35 (aka: dog bone) was also problematic on my old MP. Why they used that type of exposed joints that are undersized for the job, I don't know, especially since they use a sealed type rod ends at #30. I replaced the dog bone with a pair of heim joints and and adjuster rod. Still solid till the day I sold it.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/steering-arm.122513/
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/steering-arm.122513/
Widrig
VIP Member
I shimmed the ski bumpers at the recommendation of my dealer; followed the instructions of Bergstrom Skegs and others on YouTube. Shims are ~1/4" thick pieces of leftover hyfax. Went for a short ride after installing and they seem to have improved the handling noticeably.
