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What do you guys think of this as a fix for the bearing spinning on shaft behind brake??

6009 bearing (Cat specific: 6009-2RSFP-C3)

6009 should be 45 x 75 x 16mm

Cat part number: 2602-198

https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/search.php?search_query=6009

Dan



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Hey Marc! Can you find a bearing with a larger I.D. and press a collar with set screws into it.
Never thought of that Andy!!!!! Great idea I will looks into it!! It would be easy to machine a interference fit collar with set screws.


Andy this is something you may want to address right off the bat on your new 2020 if the didn't correct it!!!

I have never come across any bearings with larger ID and same OD....

Dan
 
I have never come across any bearings with larger ID and same OD....

Dan
Dan have you had a chance to check your drive bearing with the green lock tight,just wondering how that holds up
 
I took mine apart for the first time last night to grease the bearing and it is really loose, the inner race also has wore a grove on the hub of the brake rotor. I took my drive shaft, bearing, and rotor to the dealer today and was told I need to bring the sled in, they cannot just get me new parts. I called Yamaha and they agreed with that statement. I know I have read on here that many of you are getting new parts on your YES warranty, what dealer do I need to call to get taken care of?

My other thought is to just have the shaft welded up and machined to the proper size since even if Yamaha gives me a new shaft I still have to do something about the problem however I have no idea where to have that done and how much it would cost me. Anyone have any suggestions? Part of me just wants to put it back together and let Yamaha fix it when it really breaks but that doesn't do me much good when I only ride 3 weekends a year and then I am without a sled or when I am going 95 mph and the track locks up...
 
So are you going to have to put it together just to take it to the dealer? What a pain in the #*$&@.

I know how you feel. The situation is beyond any rational thought.
MS
 
I took mine apart for the first time last night to grease the bearing and it is really loose, the inner race also has wore a grove on the hub of the brake rotor. I took my drive shaft, bearing, and rotor to the dealer today and was told I need to bring the sled in, they cannot just get me new parts. I called Yamaha and they agreed with that statement. I know I have read on here that many of you are getting new parts on your YES warranty, what dealer do I need to call to get taken care of?

My other thought is to just have the shaft welded up and machined to the proper size since even if Yamaha gives me a new shaft I still have to do something about the problem however I have no idea where to have that done and how much it would cost me. Anyone have any suggestions? Part of me just wants to put it back together and let Yamaha fix it when it really breaks but that doesn't do me much good when I only ride 3 weekends a year and then I am without a sled or when I am going 95 mph and the track locks up...

Is the sled is still within warranty???
Hell yes they should fix it!
Tell them to locktight the Motherf?cer!!!
 
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Use a SKF bearing, it will last the life of the sled.
# 6009-2rs1 c3
I'm not aware of poor bearing life due to bearing failure (internal component, lubrication failure, or overload). Mostly it's just that the track shaft is spinning in the ID of the bearing making it wear larger.
1. Interesting they use a C3 bearing which designates more internal clearance in the bearing. This is typically used for bearings that are press fit onto a shaft or press fit into a housing. This is not the case for the Winder design.
2. This bearing is sealed and protected from tunnel snow and ice by a pretty good seal so it really never is exposed to large amounts of water, snow, etc.
 
I'm not aware of poor bearing life due to bearing failure (internal component, lubrication failure, or overload). Mostly it's just that the track shaft is spinning in the ID of the bearing making it wear larger.
1. Interesting they use a C3 bearing which designates more internal clearance in the bearing. This is typically used for bearings that are press fit onto a shaft or press fit into a housing. This is not the case for the Winder design.
2. This bearing is sealed and protected from tunnel snow and ice by a pretty good seal so it really never is exposed to large amounts of water, snow, etc.

If you have it apart take the “China” out of the sled, it will only cost you $30.
Can you make a Peer bearing last? Yes but you need to repack it with good grease and cross your fingers.
Boggie wheels are one thing, driveshaft bearings are another.
Oh the good old days of NSK, gone forever.
 
Dammit. Checked it at 10000 km. Need new shaft. Will now be servicing that POS bearing every year
 
Dammit. Checked it at 10000 km. Need new shaft. Will now be servicing that POS bearing every year

The bearing is not the problem, the shaft fitment and sloppy slip fit is the actual real issue. No matter what bearing is used it’s going to rotate on the shaft unless something is done to actually clamp it to the shaft and keep it from wearing the shaft out.
 
The bearing is not the problem, the shaft fitment and sloppy slip fit is the actual real issue. No matter what bearing is used it’s going to rotate on the shaft unless something is done to actually clamp it to the shaft and keep it from wearing the shaft out.
All those trouble free years of having a bearing with a locking collar and now this Mike. The best part of those bearings is I would change them every few years and it took me about 30 minutes to do it. I just don't understand why so many manufacturers feel the need to change things that have worked for years with inferior designs.
 
Dammit. Checked it at 10000 km. Need new shaft. Will now be servicing that POS bearing every year

Take the shaft to a machine shop. They can weld where the shaft is worn, and then machine it to the correct clearance for the bearing. I had to do one this winter, cost $100 cdn.
 
I just ordered c3 bearings I have not taken drive axel out yet.
But could you not weld shaft and have it turned down to be a press fit on new bearing ?
 
Anybody else hear the echo in here.
 


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