yamaha_junky626
Veteran
I'M SWITCHING MY ATTAK TO AN APEX MOUNTAIN REAR SKID AND TUNNEL AND WAS WONDERING WHAT HOLE I SHOULD RUN THE REAR PART OF THE SKID IN.
GotJuice
Expert
drop brackets
Well first off i would HIGHLY reccommend the Timbersled drop brackets since your doing the switch, well worth the 100.00! If that's no way possible then the lowest hole is for boosted sleds and the highest hole for non boosted. cheers.......
Well first off i would HIGHLY reccommend the Timbersled drop brackets since your doing the switch, well worth the 100.00! If that's no way possible then the lowest hole is for boosted sleds and the highest hole for non boosted. cheers.......
yamaha_junky626
Veteran
Drop brackets
i actually got the timbersled drop brackets, but the only have the upper hole, i'll probably just make some different ones than so i have the lower hole cause i'm running boost.
i actually got the timbersled drop brackets, but the only have the upper hole, i'll probably just make some different ones than so i have the lower hole cause i'm running boost.
GotJuice
Expert
TS
Did Timbersled know you were boosted because I believe they have a lower version or boost specific, I would still run the TS brackets and pull your limiters up one more hole to make up for the extra transfer from traction
Did Timbersled know you were boosted because I believe they have a lower version or boost specific, I would still run the TS brackets and pull your limiters up one more hole to make up for the extra transfer from traction
yamaha_junky626
Veteran
drop brackets
i bought the brackets used from a guy on snowest that had a turbo. so it wasn't timbersleds mistake. will it tend to wheelie in the upper holes than.
i bought the brackets used from a guy on snowest that had a turbo. so it wasn't timbersleds mistake. will it tend to wheelie in the upper holes than.
rideblue
Expert
Mount the rear of the skid in the upper hole and use the transfer rods, preload and limiter straps to control transfer. Using the lower hole puts a ton of ski on the sled and it is harder to side hill and turn.
obile
Pro
x2 i tried the bottom hole. too hard of steering on hard went back to upper hole tightened up the limiter and adjusted transfer rods works like stock on the hard stuff and keeps the front down under boost. i might let the transfer rods back out to get just alittle more lift under boost. before tightening th limiters it would wheelie uncontrollably . try one thing at a time limiters first then transfer rods dont do like i did and make too many adjustments at once . youll chase it all day long. went back to stealership setup and did one at a time 20 minutes of setup one at a time and got it dialed!!!rideblue said:
yamaha_junky626
Veteran
Drop Brackets
Thanks for the info guys, i'll try the brackets i have first and see how i can get it to handle.
Thanks for the info guys, i'll try the brackets i have first and see how i can get it to handle.
johno
Newbie
transfer rods
By transfer rods do you mean the long rods along the shock or the adustment on the rear slider?
By transfer rods do you mean the long rods along the shock or the adustment on the rear slider?
rideblue
Expert
The adjustment on the rear slider. One full turn on the nuts make a big difference on weight transfer and suspention coupling.
doober
Extreme
Should the transfer rods be tightened up or loosened off to allow the front end to come up a bit. I just bought an 08 Apex, and the guy put in a stiffer spring, loosened off the limiter strap all the way, and tightened the transfer rods all the way. And he was complaining about the front end steering heavy.
rideblue
Expert
Loosening the nuts (counter clock wise) on the transfer rods allows for more transfer. This should be done in small steps, like a turn at a time and is for fine tuning! If the nuts are ran all the way up, the center and rear shock will couple way to soon and ride way harsh and have no transfer.
Set the nuts back to the stock setting and have the rider sit on the sled and use the preload adjuster on the rear springs to set sag. You are shooting for 30mm - 35mm gap between the top nut and the bottom of the sliding part of the transfer rod assembly. More gap is more transfer less gap is less transfer. If you can't get the sag right with changing the preload then you will need to change springs.
Also try increasing center shock preload to lighten up the front and increase transfer.
If you bought the sled new there should be a laminated card that came with the sled that shows how to set the suspention.
Check out this months Snowest issue. They published a generic suspention tuning guide that Yamaha put in their 2009 snowmobile tech update book. Its handy and work with all sleds
Set the nuts back to the stock setting and have the rider sit on the sled and use the preload adjuster on the rear springs to set sag. You are shooting for 30mm - 35mm gap between the top nut and the bottom of the sliding part of the transfer rod assembly. More gap is more transfer less gap is less transfer. If you can't get the sag right with changing the preload then you will need to change springs.
Also try increasing center shock preload to lighten up the front and increase transfer.
If you bought the sled new there should be a laminated card that came with the sled that shows how to set the suspention.
Check out this months Snowest issue. They published a generic suspention tuning guide that Yamaha put in their 2009 snowmobile tech update book. Its handy and work with all sleds
doober
Extreme
Ok thanks, I will try to loosen it off a bit and see where it goes, the spring in the front of the skid is a stiffer spring, with a few shims in it, he was told it would help with the darting, the other stuff I have no clue why he did it, but to me having everything tightened right up doesnt make sence.
