Shingo501
Newbie
Hi, I want to buy my first snowmobile and after some search I believe the yamaha vector gt 2010-2011 might be the best bet for my budget.
I live in Quebec, about 1/4 mile away from the trails which is a network of around 20000 miles, so a big playground. My plan is to go straight from my garage to the trails without using my trailer.
Anyway, I don’t want to invest too much because the riding season is not that long, so my budget is around 3500$ for that amount of money I can get a nice 2010 vector with around 10000 miles.
Since I saw a lot of vector in the 35000-40000 miles and still asking over 2000$ I’m assuming the vector is fairly reliable.
Is there some specific issue I need to look for when buying a used vector? Anything specific to these year for this particular model.
I live in Quebec, about 1/4 mile away from the trails which is a network of around 20000 miles, so a big playground. My plan is to go straight from my garage to the trails without using my trailer.
Anyway, I don’t want to invest too much because the riding season is not that long, so my budget is around 3500$ for that amount of money I can get a nice 2010 vector with around 10000 miles.
Since I saw a lot of vector in the 35000-40000 miles and still asking over 2000$ I’m assuming the vector is fairly reliable.
Is there some specific issue I need to look for when buying a used vector? Anything specific to these year for this particular model.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
With high miles, suspension bushings & bearings. Along with driveline bearings.
Jack front end up, see how much play in front arms. Zerks were added by '10, but if rarely or never greased, the bushings will be junk.
Jackshaft & driveshaft bearings. Ask when or how often they been repacked.
Look for grooving in the primary clutch in particular.
By 10k, the track is gonna toast. I know some guys get more, but just visual isn't the whole story. By that many miles, it's stretched out badly & fatigued.
Shocks are gonna be wayyy past due for a rebuild. Ask when if or ever been done.
Header to midpipe "donuts" should be on their 3rd or 4th time around the block, unless replaced with coppers. Ask about that.
Otherwise, general appearance will tell alot. How rusted & beat do the a arms look, along with the rear suspension frame.
Take off the "hood" and side panels. Look to see how bad the aluminium and magnesium engine & frame parts are oxidized. That'll tell ya how much salt it's seen from trailering.
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
Jack front end up, see how much play in front arms. Zerks were added by '10, but if rarely or never greased, the bushings will be junk.
Jackshaft & driveshaft bearings. Ask when or how often they been repacked.
Look for grooving in the primary clutch in particular.
By 10k, the track is gonna toast. I know some guys get more, but just visual isn't the whole story. By that many miles, it's stretched out badly & fatigued.
Shocks are gonna be wayyy past due for a rebuild. Ask when if or ever been done.
Header to midpipe "donuts" should be on their 3rd or 4th time around the block, unless replaced with coppers. Ask about that.
Otherwise, general appearance will tell alot. How rusted & beat do the a arms look, along with the rear suspension frame.
Take off the "hood" and side panels. Look to see how bad the aluminium and magnesium engine & frame parts are oxidized. That'll tell ya how much salt it's seen from trailering.
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
