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Wife’s chest too big for these bibs?

After your done bleeding out the brakes squeeze the brake lever and put a zip tie around it with the bleeder closed.
Let it sit for a day or two even with the reservoir cover on. The rest of air will work its way out and have a great lever then.
 

After your done bleeding out the brakes squeeze the brake lever and put a zip tie around it with the bleeder closed.
Let it sit for a day or two even with the reservoir cover on. The rest of air will work its way out and have a great lever then.
I didn’t have a day or two and I made sure I had no air. I reverse bleed the system. Push thru caliper up the line into a catch can coming out the banjo fitting. Then I hook up the master with brake lever zip tied to bar, handle bar steered to the right so brake line is running uphill to master and push fluid thru master until full, suck that out and push fluid in again until master is full enough where I can put cover on. Cut zip tie and slowly allow lever to return. Slow short squeezes of lever making sure no bubbles are present in master and it works every time.

Had one slight issue this time around. I couldn’t build pressure with lever. I had no air in line or caliper and fought the lever until I decided to pull the master apart. I already rebuilt it last year and put all new parts in.
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I pulled the caliper too but parts were back ordered so I didn’t put but 15 miles on the Viper last season.
So the caliper was rebuilt with new seals and pistons before I started this bleeding process last weekend. But for some reason or other the seal in master swelled and was soft like fluid contamination. Never had anything other than the DOT4 that’s in it now hit the seal. Maybe wrong materials of construction? Either way, I was able to use my old seal to get the brakes bled and pressure back.
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Same seal but look at the size difference. The rear o-ring was fine. Not sure what happened there.
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Brake lever has 1” between bar and lowest part of lever now which seems on par with the Winder and the XTX Viper.
 
I just replaced replaced my caliper.
Did the reverse bleed method also.
Other years didn't have any issues bleeding out air using the reverse method.
This year I couldn't pump up a good lever after having good clean fluid coming out in reservoir.
Did the zip tie trick and have a nice solid lever now.
Nice work there on your sled.
:sled2:
 
I just replaced replaced my caliper.
Did the reverse bleed method also.
Other years didn't have any issues bleeding out air using the reverse method.
This year I couldn't pump up a good lever after having good clean fluid coming out in reservoir.
Did the zip tie trick and have a nice solid lever now.
Nice work there on your sled.
:sled2:
Seems like they’re hit or miss. I told my brother how I do mine and he tried with no luck on his XTX Viper. I tried on his and same thing, it was better but not a firm lever. We ended up lifting the front end about 8” and also tipped it in the left side by about 10” and left it over night and it came around. Didn’t have lever tied to bar though. Thought maybe because my MTX bars are higher and at a different angle. Idk?! They suck to bleed and I won’t even go into cooling system. I had to vacuum bleed the coolant on my winder trying to figure out my temperature issue. Still ran hot so now I’m tearing into it and replacing the water pump impeller. I hope I find it spun or something that justifies me taking it apart. I just want it to be able to run a minute at a stop sign without going into limp mode. I’m putting a radiator on it if it does it again this year. I have a feeling I’m gonna be spending more time on my Viper this season. But that’s ok too.
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Minor set back on the Winder again. Secondary rollers. Pin has wallowed out the hole allowing the roller to have play so it won’t run true and also wore into the retaining screw. Looking at a Viper or STM secondary instead of replacing sheave every other season. I haven’t had any exploded belts yet and I wanna keep it that way.
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Minor set back on the Winder again. Secondary rollers. Pin has wallowed out the hole allowing the roller to have play so it won’t run true and also wore into the retaining screw. Looking at a Viper or STM secondary instead of replacing sheave every other season. I haven’t had any exploded belts yet and I wanna keep it that way. View attachment 174029
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View attachment 174031
View attachment 174032
Maybe that bolt needs to have some loctite when you replace the sheave. On the cat secondary the assembly bolts come with red loctite on them from the factory.
 
Maybe that bolt needs to have some loctite when you replace the sheave. On the cat secondary the assembly bolts come with red loctite on them from the factoy.
I found a secondary off a wrecked 15 Viper that I’m going to use. I know it won’t be as smooth or as fast as the roller clutch but I’m not dealing with this roller issue. Hopefully I’ll have it next week so I can send it off to Thunder Products.
 


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