WolfOne's Sled Build from RTX to Mountain Monster

[MotoPsycho]

Excellent work! Keep the pictures coming!!

 

[WolfOne]

Recover stock tunnel hardware and linkage

At the moment I need to reinstall the stock exhaust so I prefer to re-use the stock hardware.

First the front one.

Need to keep some measure from the front line of the stock tunnel.

Then drill out the stirrup

Need to cut lateral wings

Now place some paper tape on the new tunnel and sign and drill the main holes based on the measure of the old tunnel

Now fix temporary the stirrup by the main holes on the upper side of the tunnel and drill other holes.
Pay attention that the stirrup is not symmetrical

Increase the diameter of the main holes until the bolt can pass trough

Now you can rivet the stirrup under the tunnel

Similar work for the rear exhaust support, the exhaust cover and the tank bolt.

Take good measure before to drill out the stirrups.

I measure from the front line of the stock tunnel

To obtain the right height for the rear exhaust support I used inox washers

You can see all the bolts in their position

 

[WolfOne]

Heatexchanger protection elimination

Stupid work but no error are admitted for your exchange safety
My friend is dremel with small tap

Drill small holes in the weldings working with the dremel as parallel to the exchanger as you can

Than stress the protectors with a pliers with care

Now reduce the welding thickness and the job is done

 

[WolfOne]

Anti-Ratchet Drivers installation

Following some suggestion that I recived I improved my drivers assembly/disassembly system.

2 piece of square pipe and 2 bolts worked very well.

Drivers no flex at all.
I tested by my self … if axle jumps out when under stress, it is not a killer.

But if you are not sure … don’t try this

To reinstall the axle on the sled working alone , it is a boring work because you need to fight with the track.

So I try to tie up the track to the steering column and it works well keeping the axle free to move

 

[WolfOne]

Mt Tamer rear suspension assembly
I love this product!

First install track tension adjuster
In that picture I make a mistake … I install them outside the rail instead inside

I see that when I installed the rear axle (stupid man)

Than install central and front rubber protectors, front caps and hifax

Now go with front and rear arms

This is the lower cross shaft of the front arm. You need to disassembly it and to install the bushing on the shock (front and rear shock are different).

Than you can assembly the lower cross shaft for the limiter straps.
There are 1 cross shaft and 3 spacers

Now you can bolt on the front arm with the shock

Reduce shock air pressure to 0 and pull the arm down with a nylon strap

Fix the limiter straps on the front arm and install, in the same way, the rear arm.

Timbersled suggest basic setup for different condition.

Insatll the rear axle and you are ready to install the suspension nder the tunnel

 

[MotoPsycho]

Beautiful work!

 

[WolfOne]

Beautiful work!

I'm waiting for your axle Man and then I'll post the upgrade pictures

Postal Office called me yesterday evening and told me there are 2 boxes for me from USA and I think one it's from you

 

[WolfOne]

 

[WolfOne]

Front susp disassembly and swaybar removal

This time the father of my wife help me so the work gone fast and easy
First need to remove some plastic.

So remove those clips

Than drill lower rivets on steering arm rubber protection

Keep away skis

Than lower shock bolt first and upper second

Free steering arms paying attention to the 2 thin washers

Unbolt the swaybar linkage from the lower A-arms

Unbolt the upper A-Arm (it’s direct bolt on the sled without nuts)

The lower A-Arms has 2 bolts with nuts

Now a side of your front suspension is in your hand. Repeat the work on the other side.

To remove the sway bar you need to unbolt the 2 allen bolt (1 upside 1 downside).

To have an easy work without the risk of damaging a bolt is better if you heat with hot air very well and with patient the alluminium blocks

 

[WolfOne]

Barkbuster install

First a look to weights

Stock right spindler with upper and lower A-Arm and ball-joint (4.9 kg – 10 lb)

Same pieces from Barkbuster (2.9 kg – 6.4 lb)

For the installation you just need to install the hardware on the A-Arms and then install them on the sled in the same way of the stock ones.

Than you have to fight a little with ball-joint and steering arms regulations to obtain a proper alignment and ground angle of skis

 

[TT]

Awsome looking sled! VERY nice thread with good explainations and pictures - keep up the excellent work!

What is next - BOOST?

 

[WolfOne]

What is next - BOOST?

Thanks TT

In travel from USA to Italy:

- OFT rear axle
- OFT billet rear and idler wheels
- Whal Bros anti-stab kit
- Rox HandGuard
- Rox Adj. risers
- Mountain bar
- Goldfingher Left Throttle
- Master Cylinder Brake Pump
- Alluminium Throttle block and lever
- Teather Chord

- Ulmer Racing 210 Turbo Kit Stage 2G with Excell Exhaust, gearing and clutching


Still not ordered:

- Complete instruments series from Auto Meter
- Gel battery
- rear racks
- new front lights (i'm studying something different from what i've seen till now)
- something for tail light


And this is my garage waiting to be installed:

- Remote Sled Start modified to obtain something like a key-less sled
- Timbersled Air vent kit


other that at the moment i don't know

 

[TT]

Welcome to the dark side of boost - LOL!!!!!! You will love it!

 

[WolfOne]

OFT Wheels and rear axle kit

Very great products and easy work to do

Loose completly the track, unbolt the rear arms, lift the sled and the wheels will be free

Idler wheels needs, on Mt Tamer susp, to remove an external sieger ring.

Just pay attention to install the 5 wheels whit the blades in the same direction (no, no I’m sure I’ve not done this mistake hahahaha ).

And also is better to ‘syncronize’ the blades of the 3 rear wheels

 

[Kråkan]

NICE!!!

Did you make a list of all the weight reductions you did??