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ZX-2 performance review - bolt torking procedures

rxrider

Jan-Ove Pedersen
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
7,356
Age
59
Location
Lakselv - 70N & 25E
Country
Norway
Snowmobile
2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Here's a review of my suspension setup based on todays ride.

My sled after todays ride. The skid doesn't hold much snow :)

2008_01070019.jpg



Fox Floats up front:
I have pumped the Fox Floats up from 50 lbs to 70 lbs since the last ride. WOW that did make a huge difference, front end is now much more in balance with the rear. No matter the bump size the Floats swallows them and make the front feel soft without bottoming at all. The trail we rode today was not badly beaten up, but the little snow in the swamplands made it for a crazy bumpy ride. I will go up even more in pressure on the Floats. I will boost the pressure to 85 lbs and test it again. My friend the Yamaha dealer had it that way last season on his Apex RTX and loved it. He is a very aggressive rider, even worse than me :jump:

ZX-2 in the rear:
Thank you ADBoivin for coming up with this skid, WOW is all I can say. I have the skid set up with the revolver in the 2 and 4 position with the spring preload at 5. I'll leave it this way because it works for me. I don't think this skid can bottom out, the trail was crazy nasty bumpy and the ZX-2 swallowed it all. I love the transfer, it's very easy to use the throttle to keep the skis up top of the bumps. The performance it has in the worst there is of trails is all I have been looking for from a skid. For those who think the Mono is a great skid, the trail we rode today would have killed the Monoshock suspension. I know this because I have killed my '05 RX-1 Mono suspension on far better trails than this one, broken front tork arm and broken shock and cracked rails.

I love riding my sled with the suspension I have under it now. It still need a little more fine-tuning but I feel I'm close. I will address the front end before making any changes to the rear. I need to get the front to rear balance perfect before change the transfer or coupling, I will not touch the preload cause it is just perfect. I feel the ole' RX-1 can be a pretty capable bump sled, who would have thought that could ever happen ;)!

I almost forgot - I did not bottom out either the front nor the rear today, not once :)
 

Great reviews RXRIDER!

It look like This skid really perform well,this myth bee my next purchase but i am aware of track rubbing under the tunnel.Some have notice vibration.

Did you resolve this rubbing issue?

And for your sled tipinesse have you tried short you front limiter strap with your shock at 55psi???
 
are there other wheel options? Im really considering this over the summer...but would have to do something with those plain black wheels.
 
No I have not shortened the limiter straps, the manual says not to in the 121 and 136 applications. I do not have any vibrations. My track barely rubs the tunnel protectors on the left. Easy fix is to cut the lugs down a little at the spot where the track rubs, will have to measure how much I can cut the lugs and still keep the studs from hitting the MCXpress turbo charge tube.

Riding on really bad and nasty trails I do not have a problem with the higher center of gravity. In a high speed sweeping turn it transfers a little too much, skis have little contact with the ground when on the throttle, then it gets a little tippy. Only thing I may do to fix this is to reduce transfer, but I may not want to give away from the big bump capability.
 
Why the manual said not too shorten limiter strap?What will happen if you do so?

What ADBOIVIN said about that rubbing problem?
I suspect that the installation kit is not perfect,maybe relocating the skid of a couple mm in some way may solve the rubbing issue.
 
Kevin Garceau said:
are there other wheel options? Im really considering this over the summer...but would have to do something with those plain black wheels.

I'm sure you could find aftermarket wheels as they are pretty common sizes, 200mm(4), 135mm(6) and 120mm(2). Most have the 6004 bearing with the upper carrier wheels containing 6205 bearings.
 
I also put seat time on my 136 ZX-2. Couldn’t believe how well I can hit the biggest of bumps with ease. Never thought I would ever see the day. I weigh about 210 suited up and ride like a raped ape through the ruff stuff and just had to laugh it out with this new skid. I also killed every other suspension I’ve owned and buckled the tunnel on my last doo.
I put lock tight on every bolt in my skid and if this suspension last, I’ll be installing one in every sled I own. It is also very easy to pull the suspension out by just pulling the top shaft to collapse the skid. Now if I could only get the proper 2 front idler wheels for the skid, it would be complete. I received wrong size front wheels in my kit. Been running without them and my sliders are wearing right where I need my wheels.

I did notice I’m riding higher and will fine tune to get my handling back.

Dan
 

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Awesome review RXrider!!! I can't wait to give mine a good ole 'break in" treatment I have been dying to give it.

Have you had any loose bolt issues or anything?

For some reason i have PLENTY of track clearance like more then my edge did, so I feel good about it and I have a 1.25" 9833 and 1.4" studs.

I only have 12 miles on mine and I was going to check all the bolts, is it easy to pull one bolt at a time with it installed and locktite and reinstall or do you pull the skid again?

Dano - What do you mean by "easy to pull the suspension out by just pulling the top shaft to collapse the skid" Which shaft are you talking about? I had a little bit of a struggle to get mine in and lined up. Thanks guys!
 
kinger said:
Dano - What do you mean by "easy to pull the suspension out by just pulling the top shaft to collapse the skid" Which shaft are you talking about? I had a little bit of a struggle to get mine in and lined up. Thanks guys!

If you pull the top shaft (top idler wheels or top shaft that connect the top part of your shocks)..pull idler wheels off and shaft pulls through and collapse suspension to make it easier to pull out of track. Of course you need to remove the 4 main suspension bolts first. I too had to monkey around a bit to line up the holes when I put suspension in, but easier now that I’ve done it 3 times. Sometimes reading instructions can save you some time lol.

I wouldn't pull the bolts out of the rear idler wheels with the skid in. Even if you loosen the track. Been there done that and had to pull rear suspension bolts to drop skid to loosen track enouph to get bolts back in.

Dan
 
"I wouldn't pull the bolts out of the rear idler wheels with the skid in. Even if you loosen the track. Been there done that and had to pull rear suspension bolts to drop skid to loosen track enouph to get bolts back in"

Dano, you can loosen the track, and use a ratchet strap thru the suspension and around the back wheels to the back bumper.

I took them out also, and by tightening the strap, you can pull the wheels back far enough to get the bolts back in the shaft. It is easier than dropping the rear suspension.

Maybe we should start another thread on "Working on ZX2". We could post some of the short cuts and how to change parts.

Also it would be nice to know some of the sag settings at different temps to try and get the track adjusted after working on it. I got mine back together and it is 60 degrees here.

:yam: :4STroke: :rocks:
 
ROCKRTX said:
Why the manual said not too shorten limiter strap?What will happen if you do so?

What ADBOIVIN said about that rubbing problem?
I suspect that the installation kit is not perfect,maybe relocating the skid of a couple mm in some way may solve the rubbing issue.

The manual does not say what will happen if you shorten the straps. It only says this is the way it is by design.

I guess it will alter the skids geometry, reducing the ride quality. Other than that I can't see that going in a little on the straps will damage anything, but I'm only guessing at this time.

I have lowered the tunnel protectors 6-7 millimeters or 1/4 inch. This is why I have the track running the left side protector, the protector is lowered a little more on this side to fit underneat the MCXpress turbo charge tube. If my protectors were not lowered, clearance would have been more than enough.
 
kinger said:
Awesome review RXrider!!! I can't wait to give mine a good ole 'break in" treatment I have been dying to give it.

Have you had any loose bolt issues or anything?

Nothing that I'm aware of. I only have some 50 miles on it so far, the ZX-2 have met my expectations so far.

The only thing I can think of negative for now is high speed sweeping turns on the throttle. With the turbo it is not holding the skis on the ground when trying to throttle it up thru the turn, it will lift the skis off the ground. I may try reducing the transfer.
 
If my protectors were not lowered, clearance would have been more than enough.

I am glad to ear that,This skid myth be my next purchase.so all you guys that have ZX2 keep us posted on the good and bad of this suspension. :rocks:
 
SnoWarrior said:
"Dano, you can loosen the track, and use a ratchet strap thru the suspension and around the back wheels to the back bumper.

I took them out also, and by tightening the strap, you can pull the wheels back far enough to get the bolts back in the shaft. It is easier than dropping the rear suspension.

Maybe we should start another thread on "Working on ZX2". We could post some of the short cuts and how to change parts.

:yam: :4STroke: :rocks:

Good tip ;)! on the rear wheels ;)!

Great idea - "Working on ZX2"
Make the post :) it would be nice to have all the how to's collected in a single post. Just do it :rocks: ;)!
 


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