Code 34

[Wannaviper]

I bought an 09 Phazer GT in a private sale last year. We probably put 6-700 miles on it without a problem, at the end of last year and the beginning of this year. Then about a month ago, in the middle of a day on the trail, it started running rough and would not stay running showing a code 34. I was able to ride it in 30+ miles to the dealership by keeping the engine reving high; everytime I let it idle down it would die. The dealer said that the coils were fine, but that someone had spliced the wiring harness. They re-cut it and re-spliced it, and it ran fine for another 2-300 miles. Then, last week when we were on a trip, it was outside in a snowstorm and zero temperatures. When I tried to start it, it would not even fire. I towed it back onto the trailer, and after getting it home and warmed up, I got it started, but with the same "34" code and rough running. I am wondering if moisture got into the splice and shorted it out again?

Do you think the Dealer was right, and that the splice would cause the problem? Is a new wiring harness (big $) the only answer, or is there a "proper" way to repair that splice in the line? Any thoughts (or similar experiences) would be appreciated.

 

[canoehead]

The only real or proper way to splice is solder and heat shrink. I usually go the extra and paint on liquid electrical tape also.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Code 34 refers to an open in the primary wire on #2 cylinder ignition coil. It's possible the repair might have not been done properly or that #2 coil could be defective. The seat, side plastics, top plastics, and fuel tanks have to be removed so the coil and wiring can be checked.

 

[Wannaviper]

Thank you both for your insight; it sounds like the repair is out of my league. The repair wasn't done by my regular dealer because we were up north on the trail, but I will be headed back to my regular dealer and hope they can get to the source of the problem!

 

[canoehead]

Good luck I'm sure you'll get it sorted out.

 

[Wannaviper]

Help! About 300 miles after having one dealer up north "fix" my Code 34 issue by re-doing a splice in the electrical system, the Code reappeared and the sled would not even start. At that point, I took the sled to my regular dealer (that I have been very happy with) and they put in a set of new plugs, cleared the codes, and pronounced it healthy again. This weekend, on its first run, about 90 miles from the trailer, the Code 34 was back. Thankfully, I was able to nurse the sled home. Generally, if I kept it reving high enough, the Code and engine light would disappear. At one point, the sled ran like there was no problem at all, and would even idle with no engine light or code appearing, and start perfectly. But then it came back. At high speed, it would run, sometimes rough, and sometimes fine. Sometimes it would only do 40 mph, and other times, it would do 75-80. Obviously, the sled is going back to the dealer when they open tomorrow, but I wondered if anyone had any ideas or suggestions as to what could be causing this "off again" "on again" problem? Could a bad coil come and go? Could it be a shorting wire? Is it a bad ECU? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

I would probably suspect the ignition coil. If it's exhibiting the problem when you bring it in they should be able to find it. Worst case it's the ECM but proper diagnosing must be performed before throwing parts at it.

 

[Wannaviper]

I did a search on this board, and then a Google search on the Code 34, or Code 33, issue (if you expand it to Code 35 you get the 3 cylinder Nytro with similar issues) and found that there are a lot of posts out there about this problem, and most of them don't seem to have gotten final answers. It also seems to be a common aspect of the problem that it comes and goes without rhyme or reason; they do one thing to fix it and it goes away, but comes back a few miles later. That is exactly what is happening with my sled. In addition to the coil itself and the ECU/ECM; people have suggested that it might be the wiring harness or sub-harness; bad plug in the wiring to the coil; crankshaft sensor; moisture in plugs in the wiring harness; and bad grounding. My main reason for buying Yamaha sleds is the 4-stroke reliability, and this issue is showing my Phazer to be anything but reliable. We put on a lot of miles in a day, and getting 100+ miles away from our trailer to have the engine throw this code ruins the trip for everyone, and it has now happened to us twice!

 

[MikeWalters]

I did a search on this board, and then a Google search on the Code 34, or Code 33, issue (if you expand it to Code 35 you get the 3 cylinder Nytro with similar issues) and found that there are a lot of posts out there about this problem, and most of them don't seem to have gotten final answers. It also seems to be a common aspect of the problem that it comes and goes without rhyme or reason; they do one thing to fix it and it goes away, but comes back a few miles later. That is exactly what is happening with my sled. In addition to the coil itself and the ECU/ECM; people have suggested that it might be the wiring harness or sub-harness; bad plug in the wiring to the coil; crankshaft sensor; moisture in plugs in the wiring harness; and bad grounding. My main reason for buying Yamaha sleds is the 4-stroke reliability, and this issue is showing my Phazer to be anything but reliable. We put on a lot of miles in a day, and getting 100+ miles away from our trailer to have the engine throw this code ruins the trip for everyone, and it has now happened to us twice!

Exactly. Thats why I am done buying used sleds. You just never know what has been done to it, what has been neglected, etc. Next sled I will be driving it off the dealer lot.

shouldnt be too pricey to find some ignition coils on ebay to try? Sounds like a gremlin for sure!

 

[cannondale27]

In this order is how I would do it.
1)Inspect the wiring
2)Swap coils from 1 to 2 see if problem follows if it does its the coil replace both plugs and the defective coil this is most likely cause. Yes coils can come and go is why its difficult to diagnose.
3)Replace the stator and pickup coil

 

[Wannaviper]

In this order is how I would do it.
1)Inspect the wiring
2)Swap coils from 1 to 2 see if problem follows if it does its the coil replace both plugs and the defective coil this is most likely cause. Yes coils can come and go is why its difficult to diagnose.
3)Replace the stator and pickup coil

Thanks Cannondale; if coils can "come and go", then I really suspect that the coil might be the culprit, cause it certainly does "come and go". Hopefully (unlike a lot of the other threads on this issue I have read) I will be able to post what was actually wrong, and have a happy ending!

 

[cannondale27]

I hope so too. Many forget to post the solution to a problem but what it usually means if nothing more is said is that they are out riding and last suggestion obviously worked! Would appreciate a final report though for sure. Thanks!

 

[Wannaviper]

I hope so too. Many forget to post the solution to a problem but what it usually means if nothing more is said is that they are out riding and last suggestion obviously worked! Would appreciate a final report though for sure. Thanks!

I am definitely hoping for a solution before the weekend; where we ride in Maine we got 18" of fresh snow on Sunday and 3" of fresh snow last night.

 

[Wannaviper]

Hopefully my dealer has found the problem. The pins in the plug from the wiring harness that went to the coil were loose. You could play with the plug and pins to make the code go away, but then when you rode it, it came right back. They had an old wiring harness laying around and salvaged pins out of it to use on mine rather than pay for a new harness. (You gotta love a dealer that trys to save you money!) The good news is that we still have plenty of snow, so we will be able to see how it handles a day or two on the trail!

 

[cannondale27]

That is a great dealer who obviously goes extra mile! Who is the Dealer?