Donuts are likely shot?

[Irv]

Yesterday I decided to try the donut test where you plug the rear exhaust with towels/gloves and see if your sled stalls.

I used 2 heavy towels and held them on there for over 10 seconds and my sled didn't stall.

It stumbled like it was going to but it didn't.

The sled was run/idled in my garage for approximately 10 minutes but wouldn't be as hot if it had been run, would this make a difference?

I was really hoping not to have to deal with this this winter but going by what others have said on here, I better get around to changing them before I end up cracking my pipes.

Thoughts?

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Yesterday I decided to try the donut test where you plug the rear exhaust with towels/gloves and see if your sled stalls.

I used 2 heavy towels and held them on there for over 10 seconds and my sled didn't stall.

It stumbled like it was going to but it didn't.

The sled was run/idled in my garage for approximately 10 minutes but wouldn't be as hot if it had been run, would this make a difference?

I was really hoping not to have to deal with this this winter but going by what others have said on here, I better get around to changing them before I end up cracking my pipes.

Thoughts?

While the sled is running with parking brake on, put your head as near to the front of the tunnel as you dare and listen for exhaust sounds coming from the donut area. Burp the throttle a few times while listening as well. In 14K miles I have learned the sound of blown donuts. A long time ago I tried the rag test 1X and the sled didn't stop. The donuts were bad however. This fall I installed Crew Chief's copper donuts. Never occurred to me to try the rag test but I just might give it a try. The sled sounds noticeably different (to me) with fresh donuts in it.

As bad as my donuts were I guess I have a hard time believing that average trail riding (me) would cause the pipes to crack. Maybe fatigue over time? I guess I'll find out someday.

FWIW - I think I could change donuts in an hour. I've had the sled stripped down so many times that I have the tools to do the job and the right rivets + air rivet gun for the exhaust bracket. Is it harder on the newer body style?.....I have no idea.

Just my .02 Irv!

 

[thrasher]

You definitely can hear the difference between good donuts and bad donuts. You will hear a puffing/rattling noise coming from the base of the handlebars. Just changed mine for the fourth time with the new copper donuts, and hopefully the last for a long time. I seemed to get about 6000-8000 kms before they needed changing. This last time, only one really failed donut. Also the Vectors have stainless exhaust headers and don't crack like the titanium ones on the 4 holers. The phlanges on mine still looked good at 27,000 kms.

 

[APEX 06]

Best way to check is to pull the tank, seat and heat cover and look at them.

 

[Irv]

Best way to check is to pull the tank, seat and heat cover and look at them.

Thinking if I get that far I might as well change them, no?

Not sure what exactly I will be looking for, will it be easy to tell if they need replacing?

Just replied to Crewchief as I am going to order them anyways, even if they don't necessarily need changing this winter?

Not looking forward to the job based on what I have read, but hopefully mine go smooth?

Thanks for the info everyone.

Edit: is this link the best one to go by?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=90978

 

[steiner]

Edit: is this link the best one to go by?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=90978

Yup.

I use a Map gas torch ( yellow tank) to help loosen the pesky allen headed bolts. Get them cherry red and they back out like they were in butter.
It's an easy job to do. Takes about an hour and a half or so.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Edit: is this link the best one to go by?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=90978

Yup.

I use a Map gas torch ( yellow tank) to help loosen the pesky allen headed bolts. Get them cherry red and they back out like they were in butter.
It's an easy job to do. Takes about an hour and a half or so.

X2 It's easier than it looks to R&R them. And you'll know once you see them if they are shot. If you want, I can email or text you a pictures of what was left of my 3 donuts after 3800 miles. PM me your info and I'll get the pic to you.

 

[Redbeard]

Irv, if you remove the stainless tunnel hanger under the gas tank, don't use too long of a rivet when you re-install, or it will rub the PTO pipe. The center and mag pipe should be no problem.

It's not a bad job. It gave me the opportunity to learn more about my sled.

 

[Sled Dog]

I would suggest an impact driver for the allen head bolts even after you heat them up.

 

[Bluebullet]

Irv, I did mine on my RX1 a few rears back and it wasn't too bad? read up on here as best you can before( Learn the tricks and best ways others have done it) You will be fine my friend. Good luck and keep us posted.
Terry

 

[Irv]

Edit: is this link the best one to go by?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=90978

Yup.

I use a Map gas torch ( yellow tank) to help loosen the pesky allen headed bolts. Get them cherry red and they back out like they were in butter.
It's an easy job to do. Takes about an hour and a half or so.

That is good to know!

I just finished ordering 3 from SledToyz and there suppose to be here next week.

I have had my sled torn down fairly far replacing my steering bushings with OFT's so at least that part will be familiar.

I remember reading on here where some were saying it is better if you remove your suspension, is that necessary and does it make anything that much easier?

Thanks again for the tips/info everybody, I appreciate it!

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Edit: is this link the best one to go by?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=90978

Yup.

I use a Map gas torch ( yellow tank) to help loosen the pesky allen headed bolts. Get them cherry red and they back out like they were in butter.
It's an easy job to do. Takes about an hour and a half or so.

I remember reading on here where some were saying it is better if you remove your suspension, is that necessary and does it make anything that much easier?

No, not in my opinion. Can't understand how it would help at all.

 

[steiner]

I remember reading on here where some were saying it is better if you remove your suspension, is that necessary and does it make anything that much easier?

Only if you need to replace the header.

 

[Dara]

Edit: is this link the best one to go by?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=90978

Yup.

I use a Map gas torch ( yellow tank) to help loosen the pesky allen headed bolts. Get them cherry red and they back out like they were in butter.
It's an easy job to do. Takes about an hour and a half or so.

X2 It's easier than it looks to R&R them. And you'll know once you see them if they are shot. If you want, I can email or text you a pictures of what was left of my 3 donuts after 3800 miles. PM me your info and I'll get the pic to you.

I would like to see that picture.

Should I be concerned about donuts on a 2012 with 6,000 km on it

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Edit: is this link the best one to go by?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=90978

Yup.

I use a Map gas torch ( yellow tank) to help loosen the pesky allen headed bolts. Get them cherry red and they back out like they were in butter.
It's an easy job to do. Takes about an hour and a half or so.

X2 It's easier than it looks to R&R them. And you'll know once you see them if they are shot. If you want, I can email or text you a pictures of what was left of my 3 donuts after 3800 miles. PM me your info and I'll get the pic to you.

I would like to see that picture.

Should I be concerned about donuts on a 2012 with 6,000 km on it

IMO....yes. PM me your email addy or cell # (can text you the picture).