x2thez
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Ok, I recently installed some snow trackers on my 09 Vector LTX. I noticed that it is a little squirrley at times in the deeper snow. I did some searching around here and alot of people said to make your front A arms level.
I went to do this, and since I dont have a GYTR shocks, it seems to me like they are longer perhaps? If I was to make the sled level, I would have about 1/2" of play in the spring so I am just wondering if there is something else I am missing on this?
Thanks, PS< mods if you have to move I understand, but I figured this was something that would apply to any newer yamaha that doesnt have the clicker shocks or floats.
I went to do this, and since I dont have a GYTR shocks, it seems to me like they are longer perhaps? If I was to make the sled level, I would have about 1/2" of play in the spring so I am just wondering if there is something else I am missing on this?
Thanks, PS< mods if you have to move I understand, but I figured this was something that would apply to any newer yamaha that doesnt have the clicker shocks or floats.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
x2thez said:Ok, I recently installed some snow trackers on my 09 Vector LTX. I noticed that it is a little squirrley at times in the deeper snow. I did some searching around here and alot of people said to make your front A arms level.
I went to do this, and since I dont have a GYTR shocks, it seems to me like they are longer perhaps? If I was to make the sled level, I would have about 1/2" of play in the spring so I am just wondering if there is something else I am missing on this?
Thanks, PS< mods if you have to move I understand, but I figured this was something that would apply to any newer yamaha that doesnt have the clicker shocks or floats.
Raise the machine up then loosen the jam washers until you can slightly spin the springs on the shox, give each about a 1/4 turn then use to jam washer to secure the collar and you should be good to go.
On my Vector, with GYTR's, I can't the A arms exactly level either but they are as low as they can go so that is the best I can get.
YukonMP
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Is this idea of getting the A-arms level kind of a rule of thumb in good sled setup?
Yes. As in the instructions from Snowtracker. Zero front shock preload, limiter strap in factory position and toe at 0.Is this idea of getting the A-arms level kind of a rule of thumb in good sled setup?
In deep snow the Snowtrackers are not doing much just like any other carbide. Not sure why they would make the sled squirrely when they don't have traction.
Riceburner
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Yes. As in the instructions from Snowtracker. Zero front shock preload, limiter strap in factory position and toe at 0.
In deep snow the Snowtrackers are not doing much just like any other carbide. Not sure why they would make the sled squirrely when they don't have traction.
Agreed.
Check your toe .
Mills
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Toe-in makes your sled squirrely. If you set your toe to (0) your going to get a toe-in condition occasionally because of the slop in your steering system. To overcome this when setting your toe, pull ski tips together and keep them together with a bungee and then set your toe to (0). By doing this you eliminate the possibility of the skis to become toed-in because of the slop in you steering system.
Last edited:
superfan75
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
That's a good tip. I never thought of that when I set my toe.Toe-in makes your sled squirrely. If you set your toe to (0) your joining to get a toe-in condition occasionally because of the slop in your steering system. To overcome this when setting your toe, pull ski tips together and keep them together with a bungee and then set your toe to (0). By doing this you eliminate the possibility of the skis to become toed-in because of the slop in you steering system.
BryKlu
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Yes. As in the instructions from Snowtracker. Zero front shock preload, limiter strap in factory position and toe at 0.
In deep snow the Snowtrackers are not doing much just like any other carbide. Not sure why they would make the sled squirrely when they don't have traction.
Even with studs leave the limiter strap in the factory position?
Even with studs leave the limiter strap in the factory position?
Yup. Ran with 108 up the middle on my Attak . Limiter strap in the stock position. Works awesome
BryKlu
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Yup. Ran with 108 up the middle on my Attak . Limiter strap in the stock position. Works awesome
Great! I have to drop some aggressives on this weekend. Doesn't seem to stop snowing here in Presque Isle
stevewithOCD
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Yes. As in the instructions from Snowtracker. Zero front shock preload, limiter strap in factory position and toe at 0.
In deep snow the Snowtrackers are not doing much just like any other carbide. Not sure why they would make the sled squirrely when they don't have traction.
I feel as though the Trackers vastly improved loose or deeper snow handling.
Definitely 0 tow.
whitedust1
TY 4 Stroke God
My STs give me good steering in both deep snow and hard pak set up to ST instructions. However I did did leave my Bergstom shims in the Apex xtx ski boots....figured shims couldn't hurt. Many said don't shim STs but I did anyway and works super well. You might want to try shims to level out the skis a bit more worked for me.
Handy
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Just a tip, when setting toe in Do Not have your skis in the air. I made that mistake on my grand daughters Phazer and it was so squirrely she couldn't drive it. Set your toe in at 0 to 1/8 " out with weight on skis and everything will work as advertised.
Winderallday!
VIP Member
Just a tip, when setting toe in Do Not have your skis in the air. I made that mistake on my grand daughters Phazer and it was so squirrely she couldn't drive it. Set your toe in at 0 to 1/8 " out with weight on skis and everything will work as advertised.
In addition to Handy's tip above, I recommend lifting the front end off the floor between measurements/adjustments to let the steering find it's new home, then lower sled to ground and perform measurements to get as close to zero as you can using lightly loaded bungee to pull ski tips together to take up any steering slack. I found that on concrete garage floor the carbides can dig in and give you inaccurate measurements. I used a left over piece of plastic trailer ski guide under each carbide to allow them to slip on floor rather than scrub the concrete.
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