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Installing ECP kit

thunder lips

Extreme
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
Messages
104
As you can probablly tell with my posts, This is going to be my first year with a 4 stroke. I do really want the ECP kit, I was wondering though how hard it is to put it in the sled? I am not really that mechanically inclined. :Rockon:
 

Have you ever changed jets before in a sled??

If not we can give you a step by step on how to do it.. It isnt really that hard! They built the sled to be worked on farely easy!!

Too bad it never brakes down!! LOL
 
For here in the shop it takes about 1.5 hours. The kit comes with very detailed instructions but we highly reccomend that the carburetors are synchronized WITH A MANOMETER after the installation is complete. You could install the kit yourself and then bring the sled to a dealer or have a dealer install the entire kit. It is unlikely that they will ask you to pay for more than 1.5 - 2.0 hours of labor.

Freddie
www.easterncycleperf.com
 
Freddie, Will it hurt if I put the ECP kit and clutch it before I put any miles on it? I want my sled all ready to go when I take it out for the 1st time. Thank you for the help
 
"SUPERTUNER" I purchased a manometer from you a little while ago and have never synchronized carbs before. Would it be possible for you to provide us with a step by step description how to synch carbs on RX-1. Maybe we could even have "Mr. Sled" add it to out Tech section???? :rocks:
 
what is the difference in a manometer and a vaccume type .Locally I can get one from edelbrock
 
thunder lips said:
Freddie, Will it hurt if I put the ECP kit and clutch it before I put any miles on it? I want my sled all ready to go when I take it out for the 1st time. Thank you for the help

No Thunderlips it will not hurt anything.

Badsled...warm the engine up good before connecting the manometer. Make sure the engine idle speed once warmed up is between 1200 and 1450 RPM's. If it is not raise or lower the idle to this specification. Shut engine off when it is good and warm, then disconnect the 2 black hoses going to the #1 and #4 intake manifold. Connect these 2 hoses together as this is what operates your fuel pump. A small piece of tubing of some kind works nicely for this. This will prevent the pumps from going airbound thereby giving you a little more time to run the engine off of what is in the float bowls only. The other alternative would be to hang an auxilliary fuel tank up and use this as your fuel source by connecting these 2 hoses via a "T" to the auxilliary fuel source. If you are reasonably efficient, you can usually get the carbs synch'd before running the float bowls dry. Okay, so now the #1 and the #4 hoses are connected from the manomometer to the intake manifolds spigots located at the top of each manifold directly in front of the valve cover. Next, remove the black rubber plugs on the #2 and the #3 intake manifolds and connect the remaining 2 lines from the manometer to these. Note that the manometer (If you bought it from me anyways) is numbered. You should put the cylinders corresponding to the number for each number on the manometer. Start the engine and let it idle. if all 4 mercury tubes are even within a small amount or very close there is no need to adjust anything. Start by adjusting the # 2 carb to the #3 carb. The adjusting screws are located between each carburtor and are a phillips head screwdriver configuration. There are 3 phillips head screws for doing this. One is between carb 1 and 2 one is between carb 2 and 3 and another between carb 3 and 4. The reason there is only 3 on a 4 cylinder engine is due to the fact that when you make an adjustment, you are adjusting one carb up and one carb down. Perform the same procedure for the #3 and the #4 carbs. These phillips head screws can be seen by looking straight down between each carburetor. If a cylinder is showing high on the manometer, adjust the screw counterclockwise. Note that you will not only be lowering that carb but also raising the one next to it so slight movements are only necessary. If it is low try moving the adjusting screw clockwise. Give then engine a few "raps" of the throttle between each adjustment to allow the engine to "stabilize" to the new setting. High revs are not required so be very careful not to allow the clutch to engage. A quick tip too...when you press down on the screwdriver to adjust each carb, you will actually change the snych due to the fact that you are pressing on the adjustor. Don't let this fool you. Make a small adjustment and remove the screwdriver pressure from the adjusting screw and give it a moment to respond to the new setting. Reconnect all your hoses to their appropriate locations and reinstall the plugs for the to #3 and #4 manifolds. Try to get the carbs synch'd within .19 PSI of each other. Also, it is good to know that your valve lash is within the factory tolerance. Adjusting valve lash changes the manifold pressure thereby changing the carburetor synchronization. You are done.

If Mr. Sled would like to copy this into the tech section...be my guest.

ger...I like the mercury type. They seem to be a bit more sensitive than the vacuum type. This is my preferance though and I am sure the vacuum type work well too.

Traildemon...I have the mercury style in stock and they sell for $77.95. They are up a few dollars from last year because they have to be shipped as a "hazardous chemical" due to the mercury that comes with the kit.

Good luck! Hope this helps you guys out.

Freddie
 
Hey Freddie, is the procedure basically the same for the RS sleds? Can you use the same manometer for this or do you have a slightly different one (three hoses instead of four)?

Finally, what are the implications of improperly sync'd carbs? Conversely, how important is it that the carbs are sync'd?

Thanks in advance.
 
Flipper said:
Hey Freddie, is the procedure basically the same for the RS sleds? Can you use the same manometer for this or do you have a slightly different one (three hoses instead of four)?

Finally, what are the implications of improperly sync'd carbs? Conversely, how important is it that the carbs are sync'd?

Thanks in advance.

Yes you can use the same manometer. You will just use only 3 of the tubes. Implications of bad carb synch is poor idle, possible poor fuel mileage, poor performance and increased stress on the engine due to the fluctuating idle.

Lips...a manometer is a device that balances the vacuum to all the carburetors. You don't need to buy if you buy my kit but, the synchronizing should be checked and adjusted by a dealer or a shop on regular service intervals.
 
yes, same question as sans souci, on an rx1 which carbs are which? searched all over and even have a manual and no solid answer. is it 1234 from mag side?
 


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