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Knockout kit


earthling said:
As long as you are in the synthetics, you will find a much wider operating temperature range. The criteria I would focus on is impact, working pressure, shear resistance. They will dictate the life of the grease. Working RPM likely isn't a factor in our application. Look at NLGI 3 or higher as someone has already suggested and you will be into the 'tougher' greases.
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I cannot believe that just schaeffer's alone has everything dialed into a specific need and all with the same rating.
Obviously for me it needs to be looked at like you say. But I (me)would definitely give up cold weather workability for shear strength, tact, resistance to break down at higher temps.
Definitely, fatchance mentioned it, I'll have to keep digging.
I'm in no hurry. Thanks for reminding me about the GL#3 earthling
 
ryama said:
Would the temp at which the grease will melt not be an important factor as well as the impact , working pressure,and shear resistance. It would appear to me since from stock there is no grease. The only thing that would matter is the grease we put in stays in place for as long as possible. But I'm no engineer.
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Yes the NGLI #2 will essentially melt down in our use case. I opted to go for a NGLI #3 that is inherently stiffer and able to withstand much higher temps. It's quite tacky as well which I didn't expect.
 
1nc 2000 said:
Video with belt on and at operating temp please
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I’ll try to make more vids for you sir!!

All things being equal, both sleds were started cold, so should be a fair comparison.

But for shits and giggles, and a lack of snow…. I’ll work on that with a few beers
 
ryama said:
Would the temp at which the grease will melt not be an important factor as well as the impact , working pressure,and shear resistance. It would appear to me since from stock there is no grease. The only thing that would matter is the grease we put in stays in place for as long as possible. But I'm no engineer.
Click to expand...
All the synthetics are high temp as far as I have ever seen. Take Amsoil Synthetic, it is NLGI #2 grease with a dropping point (thermal breakdown) of over 500F. The NLGI ratings above 2, (3,4,etc) are all progressively stickier and thicker. I keep hearing that we want the grease to stay put. It isn't going to 'stay put'. The immense pressure waves that are strong enough to cause the noise in the clutch are going to move any grease around. What we want is for the grease to not break down. We want a grease that is designed to operate in a high load environment. Most greases are rated for RPMs an order of magnitude beyond the engine RPM so maybe not so important. Synthetics are for the most part high temp so we are primarily focused on load/wear/shear and the overall temperature window. Grease is just oil in a thickener with some additives. go synthetic, make sure it is designed for high impact/wear and has the right temperature rating. It will be fine because I think the knockout ring is going to be an annual maintenance item anyhow.
 
PowderFalcon said:
I’ll try to make more vids for you sir!!

All things being equal, both sleds were started cold, so should be a fair comparison.

But for shits and giggles, and a lack of snow…. I’ll work on that with a few beers
Click to expand...
Your awesome!
I'll buy the beer!
 
fatchance said:
Yes the NGLI #2 will essentially melt down in our use case. I opted to go for a NGLI #3 that is inherently stiffer and able to withstand much higher temps. It's quite tacky as well which I didn't expect.
Click to expand...

NLGI has nothing to do with temperature. You can have an NLGI grade 6 grease that will melt before an NLGI grade 2.
 
jtmetal said:
Can you tell us specifically which Grease that you find works well. Few to choose from. It's amazing that they have 5/6 different offerings in a NL#2.
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I use 229 red supreme. They likely have better choices for my equipment but its the one I tried and it does everything I need it too and ive stuck with it. Ive used greases that should be better on paper, but if they dont stay put they dont do their job. This is my 3rd mechanical harvester and ive accumalated over 50,000hrs on the 3 machines. I have a pretty good idea of what to expect for pin and bushing wear, bearings etc based on hours. This latest machine is over double the hours on parts I would have replaced before on previous machines with other greases and everythings tight and rolling smooth. Grease consumption is a 1/3 to 1/2 lower because it doesnt pound out and stays put. Nothing else I have tried has been close to being this good. Now hard to say if anything at all will work and last a reasonable amount of time with this kit or if shaeffers has anything that would be ideal for it, but its the only stuff ive used that actually does what it claims it will do so I have no issue paying more for it because it actually saves me a ton of money.
 
Who's replacing worn spider buttons or shimming them? I go through mine every few thousand kms, and use the Polaris shim kit, they fit perfectly.
Polaris part number 2200387.
Keep the spider button clearance as tight as new(or a couple thousandths tighter) along with the grease will make for a quiet clutch.
 
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