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lets see.. BEST CLUTCH KIT?

Unless you are making more hp you wont see any gains from just bolting on a clutch kit.
 

LOL....i will take that bet & raise $1000. Where does this come from?
I see your other informative post on the bender clutch kit question also.
can you elaborate on your statement & tell us how clutching won,t help unless you make more hp?
Also please explain how making an engine run at peak torque & hp regardless of any mods won,t see any gains?
I think we can use this guy as another technical advisor.
 
bbydan said:
Unless you are making more hp you wont see any gains from just bolting on a clutch kit.

FYI, on any given sled the key is to get the most HP to the ground. Why do you think that a certain engine puts out let's say 150HP at the crank but only shows around 80-85 HP on a track dyno? The key is getting the most HP to the ground ,so it is obvious that all sleds no matter what model leave alot of HP to be gained through it's drivetrain. Mfg's clutch their machines for a wide variety of conditions so usually not all that can be put to the snow is there in stock form.
 
Well said. A machine is clutched for anyone from mid hundred pounds to the 300lb fat bastard. Lots left on the table, especially low to mid. Clutching IS the cheapest HP gain.
 
YamerHammer said:
I will do one better turk, I will also take that bet an
d race your unclutched sled against my clutched sled for pinks.

It would be hard to believe that Turk has a unclutched sled..............
 
blade072 said:
YamerHammer said:
I will do one better turk, I will also take that bet an
d race your unclutched sled against my clutched sled for pinks.

It would be hard to believe that Turk has a unclutched sled..............

It wasn't directed at turk......I just raised his bet.

:yam:
 
I might be doing something wrong, but I've been playin with my Drag-n-Fly setup and at best have gained one length in 660'.
 
Turk said:
pm me with your set up. There has been improvements lately.
It'll be a week from Monday, sled is up north, stayin home this weekend to finish my '73 TX 340 since the snow is sorta weak.

I've got a crappy memory, no idea what's in it right now lol.
 
Turk said:
pm me with your set up. There has been improvements lately.
i'd like to know them, this last w.e. was local drags. for it i put in a bender clutch kit[white spring] with dragon flys and put in 23 tooth.11 grand on take off settles to 10600rpm. belt has 300-400 miles. at the end of the day it was hard not to ghost my sled into the trees, super pissed. did well early but finally found an apex...got beat bad and he had no studs . stayed with me outa the hole and just walked on by, just wanted to jump off and let the sled go. weight transfer set to max. thinkin this sled is sold........
 
TRACTION is important! sometimes the HP goes right out the bottom>clutched,etc ,etc.i have raced and won at times racing guys with more done and also lost.YOU just have to find YOUR set-up.
 
You can adjust clutching to accomodate the traction that is available to you. Easy to do.
You just play with engagement & initial clutch load.
 
nobody has 'really' answered the original 'posters' question. i don't know the answer, but i am curious to know. maybe there IS NO 'best' clutch kit. maybe they are like sled manufacturers.....meaning, one builds great reliable sleds, another builds light great cornering sleds, another builds sleds with awesome suspensions...etc....
is one clutch kit 'brand' better for trail set up? another better for lake racing? another for POW. maybe there are POS crap brand clutches?
inquiring minds want to know!
 


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