Just got back from the dealer, asked what was need to go over 8000 ft he advised among jetting and clutch mods that I would have to re gear I would need to go to a 22 tooth top and a 68 link chain the problum is they want 104 dollars just for the chain :shock: with jetting weights springs gears chains $250 just in parts :shock: I talked with the guys in the group all riding different brands and sizes no one ever heard of re gearing :? If I went with the 23 tooth I would not need the chain but maybe that wont work HELP
Pinball Wizzard
Pro
I may be wrong but if it was me I would rejet my carbs adjust my suspension and go have fun. Remember this is your first mtn. ride you don't need or have to have the best sled on the market. If worried about it look in to renting a sled for a day or week. Besides this gives you an excuse for getting stuck.
I agree with Pinball,
Change your jets, put on teh $20 mountain bar and go tear it up!!
Stop worrying about all that other stuff. If you lived in the mountains it would be differrent.
Change your jets, put on teh $20 mountain bar and go tear it up!!
Stop worrying about all that other stuff. If you lived in the mountains it would be differrent.
recinc
Newbie
gearing
It all depends how much climbing you want to do with the sled. If price is an issue like most of us but u still want to opt for the extra grunt getting up the hills then consider this (bare with me) your stock gear ratio w/shorty is 1.58 and there telling u to go to a 1.73 ratio w a 68 chain then consider the 22/39 which allows the 70 length chain you will have a 1.77 ratio itsa little steeper than the mnt sleds but it will be cheaper by not having to buy the smaller chain.
It all depends how much climbing you want to do with the sled. If price is an issue like most of us but u still want to opt for the extra grunt getting up the hills then consider this (bare with me) your stock gear ratio w/shorty is 1.58 and there telling u to go to a 1.73 ratio w a 68 chain then consider the 22/39 which allows the 70 length chain you will have a 1.77 ratio itsa little steeper than the mnt sleds but it will be cheaper by not having to buy the smaller chain.
recinc you lost me :? they told me i had to go with the 68 link because of the 22 tooth :?
tooold..........Here is a link to a gearing chart from Mountain Performance:
http://www.mountainperformance.com/yama ... _chain.htm
Stock, the shorties have a 24/38 gearing with 9-tooth drivers. As recinc stated, your current final drive ratio is 1.58. Your shop is recommending that you go with a final drive ratio of 1.73 (22/38, 9-tooth drivers) see chart. Well by going with a 22/39, 9-tooth drivers, you'll have a final drive ratio of 1.77 and stay with your 70-link chain. A 22/39 gearing, however, means that you'd be buying an upper and lower gear. I'm not sure if that's going to be any cheaper. The mountains, by the way, have a 21/40 stock gear ratio and 8-tooth drivers for a final drive ratio of 2.14.
Honestly, for your purposes, I'd re-jet and remove the rivets from the clutch weights and leave the gearing alone.
http://www.mountainperformance.com/yama ... _chain.htm
Stock, the shorties have a 24/38 gearing with 9-tooth drivers. As recinc stated, your current final drive ratio is 1.58. Your shop is recommending that you go with a final drive ratio of 1.73 (22/38, 9-tooth drivers) see chart. Well by going with a 22/39, 9-tooth drivers, you'll have a final drive ratio of 1.77 and stay with your 70-link chain. A 22/39 gearing, however, means that you'd be buying an upper and lower gear. I'm not sure if that's going to be any cheaper. The mountains, by the way, have a 21/40 stock gear ratio and 8-tooth drivers for a final drive ratio of 2.14.
Honestly, for your purposes, I'd re-jet and remove the rivets from the clutch weights and leave the gearing alone.
wfo thankx I got it how ever I can get 23 tooth very little charge that would be a little closer or is not worth it :?:
BlgsRX-1mtn
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2003
- Messages
- 1,530
- Location
- Billings, MT
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '03 RX-1 Mountain LE
This is just my opinion, but I think the mountain sleds are geared lower to account for the longer track and deeper lugs while climbing which will cause greater resistance than your shorty. Your gearing should be ok for once a year trips out west. Re-jet for altitude and clutch it for the same. Don't ask me for clutch suggestions though because I'm still stock clutched on my mountain.
You can use the 70 link chain with the 22/38 set up. Thats what I'm currently running.
BlgsRX-1mtn said:
BlgsRX-1mtn........You are correct. The mountain sleds are geared way down for two reasons: 1) 151x2 track is a ton of track to be spinning, 2) mountain sleds are hill climbers not lake racers. Last year, I remember reading where guys on shorties were seeing 120+ mph where as the mountain sleds were luck to see triple digits.
tooold said:
tooold.....If you can get a 23-tooth gear for cheap and want to go through the work (or cost) of installing it - go for it. A 23/38, 9-tooth driver set up gives you a final drive ratio of 1.65. You might find that you like the more "out of the hole" performance of the 23/38 gearing better in the flatland, too.
