sxr101
Newbie
Looking for advise. I'm having issues with belt burn/slippage when loading on a tilt trailer. The trailer has low profile ski guards screwed to the deck, but it seems the 600+ lb apex is a touch heavy and the 6" carbides are biting, even with the plastic deck guides.
I'm wondering if the addition of plastic ski boots Like the following would help:
Sno-Stuff Universal Black Ski Boots
Dennis Kirk Part #: 10317
Manufacturer Part #: 503505
Others have told me to give it more speed when loading. The problem is, I have an enclosed sno-cap canvas cover (http://www.canvasworksincmn.com/sportsnocap.html). The cover does not raise up in back on shocks. I have to duck to load the sled. This obviously prevents me from giving it too much speed.
Has anyone used the combination of ski boots + deck guides to help eliminate smoking a belt loading on a trailer at slow speeds?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I'm wondering if the addition of plastic ski boots Like the following would help:
Sno-Stuff Universal Black Ski Boots
Dennis Kirk Part #: 10317
Manufacturer Part #: 503505
Others have told me to give it more speed when loading. The problem is, I have an enclosed sno-cap canvas cover (http://www.canvasworksincmn.com/sportsnocap.html). The cover does not raise up in back on shocks. I have to duck to load the sled. This obviously prevents me from giving it too much speed.
Has anyone used the combination of ski boots + deck guides to help eliminate smoking a belt loading on a trailer at slow speeds?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Riceburner
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Low profile ski guards as you call them seem to suck. Many carbides fetch up on em.
Easy fix is screw 4 [2 x 2's ] spaced properly apart so the outer flat part of the ski's ride on them. Carbides will no longer touch the deck.
Cheap, easy peasy and the sled is always in the right spot.
No more burning belt.
Easy fix is screw 4 [2 x 2's ] spaced properly apart so the outer flat part of the ski's ride on them. Carbides will no longer touch the deck.
Cheap, easy peasy and the sled is always in the right spot.
No more burning belt.
Super Sled
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I use Ski Glides or something like that by a company called Caliber (Calibre?). They are a really hard plastic that carbides don't dig into much, so they just slide across without much effort.
But going up ramps will always be tough on belts, on any trailer.
But going up ramps will always be tough on belts, on any trailer.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Old truck bed liner... I cut the bottom of one out and cut it into 6" wide strips... and use it on my ramps for my sled deck in back of the truck.... i have a 3" lift and 34" tires with 8' ramps.... sled goes right up at this severe angle, and when unloading if not on the sled it rolles right off.
just my 2c....(and very affordable)
just my 2c....(and very affordable)
sxr101
Newbie
Thanks for the suggestions!
I need to load from almost a dead stop and a tilt trailer has a pretty steep angle. So I need the least resistance possible. The bed liner option sounds promising. I saw that option searching the forum. The 2x2's I have in the shop Super Sled, I here what your saying. It's inevitable that loading a sled on a trailer, especially steep angles is hard on the drive train. I guess I'm looking for someone to say, " I burned a belt every time I loaded, here's a solution that virtually eliminates it...".
Thanks again!,
I need to load from almost a dead stop and a tilt trailer has a pretty steep angle. So I need the least resistance possible. The bed liner option sounds promising. I saw that option searching the forum. The 2x2's I have in the shop Super Sled, I here what your saying. It's inevitable that loading a sled on a trailer, especially steep angles is hard on the drive train. I guess I'm looking for someone to say, " I burned a belt every time I loaded, here's a solution that virtually eliminates it...".
Thanks again!,
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
I cut old hifax in about 8" strips and laid them in between the ski guides to give the track lugs something to catch.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Suggest backing the trailer up to an appropriately sized snow bank whenever possible to minimize the burning thing.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Super Sled said:I use Ski Glides or something like that by a company called Caliber (Calibre?). They are a really hard plastic that carbides don't dig into much, so they just slide across without much effort.
But going up ramps will always be tough on belts, on any trailer.
Heard these work great, I believe they are called X-Caliber??
sxr101
Newbie
X-caliber is an actual ski .. i think. I believe Super Sled was referring to this product:
http://www.caliberproductsinc.com/snow.htm
http://www.caliberproductsinc.com/snow.htm
Super Sled
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sxr101 said:X-caliber is an actual ski .. i think. I believe Super Sled was referring to this product:
http://www.caliberproductsinc.com/snow.htm
Those are the ones. I use 12 feet of the low pro glides and also the low flexi glides to make the corner to the ramp in the front.
I highly recommend them.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
they probably do work amazing..... but at what cost??? i have about 40 feet of 7" wide bed liner(almost new liner) that cost me 30 bucks and 10 mins with a skill saw... i good buddy of mine did his entire double trailer with this stuff... when done he was into in for over $300 and once he saw what i did and how well it worked..... well enough said. Alittle "out of the box thinking" goes a long way sometimes....
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