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Tips for pulling primary clutch

I'm not having much luck with the water trick, cut the bent part of of the puller off (about 1.5 inches), put the sled on the side, filled the hole with water and wrapped around threads 10 times with Teflon tape, ran it down slowly with the impact until it wouldn't turn (there's no chance it can bottom out now) backed off, ran through the whole process again and nothing. Our temps are just above freezing right now so the outside trick won't work for me. I guess my next step is to try the grease and oil and worry about the mess after.
 

JerryBones said:
I'm not having much luck with the water trick, cut the bent part of of the puller off (about 1.5 inches), put the sled on the side, filled the hole with water and wrapped around threads 10 times with Teflon tape, ran it down slowly with the impact until it wouldn't turn (there's no chance it can bottom out now) backed off, ran through the whole process again and nothing. Our temps are just above freezing right now so the outside trick won't work for me. I guess my next step is to try the grease and oil and worry about the mess after.
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You need a stronger impact or your just stopping prematurely. Trust me it'll pop off and scare the crap out of you.
 
DMCTurbo said:
You need a stronger impact or your just stopping prematurely. Trust me it'll pop off and scare the crap out of you.
Click to expand...

i'm using a 20v Dewalt cordless but I do have access to a heavy duty snap on impact i could source that again and give it another try, That's the one that bent the puller in the first place I just didn't want to over do it. I'm fully expecting this thing to pop off like a gun shot when it does come free.
 
JerryBones said:
i'm using a 20v Dewalt cordless but I do have access to a heavy duty snap on impact i could source that again and give it another try, That's the one that bent the puller in the first place I just didn't want to over do it. I'm fully expecting this thing to pop off like a gun shot when it does come free.
Click to expand...
I was hesitant my first time too. My buddy was like keep going and it'll come off. He was right. Even though your expecting it, it's still scary lol.
 
Make sure there is no chance the puller is bottoming, and making contact.

Otherwise, like the comments above, keep going.
Keep an eye to make sure water is not working past the threads -which means it isnt sealed. I used oil.

Wouldnt hurt to take a heat gun and heat the middle of the clutch - but it has to be really hot.

Keep going and stand back - it will come off like a howitzer going off.
MS
 
Sevey said:
Make sure there is no chance the puller is bottoming, and making contact.

Otherwise, like the comments above, keep going.
Keep an eye to make sure water is not working past the threads -which means it isnt sealed. I used oil.

Wouldnt hurt to take a heat gun and heat the middle of the clutch - but it has to be really hot.

Keep going and stand back - it will come off like a howitzer going off.
MS
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from the sounds of it, this primary getting stuck this bad is not that uncommon. I really thought spending $80 on a Dalton puller and 10 minutes of work and this thing would come right off, but i clearly under estimated this task lol. Should a fella be removing the primary regularly/seasonally for cleaning so that it doesn't stick like this? I was only doing this to check the stub shaft bearing after blowing my first belt. I need to machine 2mm off my secondary according to the hurricane alignment bar, but I wanted to make sure the bearing was pressed in all the way before machining anything.
 
JerryBones said:
from the sounds of it, this primary getting stuck this bad is not that uncommon. I really thought spending $80 on a Dalton puller and 10 minutes of work and this thing would come right off, but i clearly under estimated this task lol. Should a fella be removing the primary regularly/seasonally for cleaning so that it doesn't stick like this? I was only doing this to check the stub shaft bearing after blowing my first belt. I need to machine 2mm off my secondary according to the hurricane alignment bar, but I wanted to make sure the bearing was pressed in all the way before machining anything.
Click to expand...
I use the knapp procedure of lapping with valve grinding compond, torque to spec, remove once a season and have never had a problem since with my sleds.
 
Fords4life said:
I use the knapp procedure of lapping with valve grinding compond, torque to spec, remove once a season and have never had a problem since with my sleds.
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What sort of life expectancy is there on the stub shaft bearing behind the primary? Is it worth replacing that bearing for peace of mind when i get in there? add green loctite and press into place and get another 7000 miles worry free from it? i see some guys are simply popping the seal and re-greasing them and others are saying it's hard to remove the seal without damaging it. The alternative is the put the loctite on and press it in and then change it later down the road but it might be a struggle getting it out again after loctite
 
Any issues leaving the sled on its side full with engine oil?
 
JerryBones said:
i'm using a 20v Dewalt cordless but I do have access to a heavy duty snap on impact i could source that again and give it another try, That's the one that bent the puller in the first place I just didn't want to over do it. I'm fully expecting this thing to pop off like a gun shot when it does come free.
Click to expand...
1/2 drive?
 
JerryBones said:
What sort of life expectancy is there on the stub shaft bearing behind the primary? Is it worth replacing that bearing for peace of mind when i get in there? add green loctite and press into place and get another 7000 miles worry free from it? i see some guys are simply popping the seal and re-greasing them and others are saying it's hard to remove the seal without damaging it. The alternative is the put the loctite on and press it in and then change it later down the road but it might be a struggle getting it out again after loctite
Click to expand...

A friend of mine had his stub shaft off (on his SW) on the weekend with 12,000 km. The bearing felt fine, but had a bit more lateral play than expected, so he chose to replace it. It likely would be fine for another 6-8k.

I had my nytro pto apart at 15,000km and that bearing was drying out.

In short, there are very few failures of this bearing but between 15-20,000 km it should be done. IMO

MS
 
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